Depending on other geometry factors, toe adjustments and steering results vary. The best way is to test drive at different toe settings at different sides of the spec, low, high, middle. Then choose the one that drives best for your JL.
Yes. Just do one at a time.
I put mine on ramps and the extra space off the ground made swapping the arms much easier. I did everything from underneath and don't see any advantage to taking the tires off, but ymmv. The entire process took about 30 minutes, with the longest part being breaking the nuts/bolts loose and getting them out.
How did it go retorquing the bolts? Mine were a bit of a pain but I finally used the floor jack to lift the torque wrench enough to get them torqued to 190.
Control arms should only be torqued when the vehicle suspension is loaded. So ground, ramps, or a drive on lift.
Good point, but there shouldn't be a need to put these on a Sport or Sahara unless they have installed a Rubicon suspension. The problem is that FCA didn't use the proper control arms for the Rubicons to correct the caster fr the height. If you put these on a stock non-Rubi, you're going to have 8 degrees of caster!
Do you know the length of the updated LCA?So today I finally swap my stock LCA with Mopar lift LCA, my JL is currently at stock height, but I hope that slightly longer LCA can give me a bit more caster. Also, it is Mopar so the dealer can't tell I swapped unless they look at it under a microscope.
As you can see in the picture, Mopar lift LCA is slightly longer than the stock LCA (measured by about 1/4 inch). In case you are interested in doing this mod, the part number for Mopar lift LCA is 68322798AA. If you want to use a new set of bolts and nuts, they are 6512085AA (bolt, M16-1.5x104mm) and 6104720AA (nut). The torque specs are 190 ft-lb. The 103 and 125 ft-lbs floating around the internet are from the old JK smaller bolt and nut specs, JL has a larger bolt so the torque should be much higher.
Some tips for your installation:
(1) Tools, tools, tools! Breaking free LCA requires a 21 mm deep socket and 24 mm wrench, since the space is really limited under the car, you need to have an impact wrench that can deliver good torque.
(2) The new LCA will be longer, so you need to jack up the frame slightly (shown in another picture, please ignore the crappy bottle jack setup, I am just too lazy to pull my 3-ton). This will move axle forward and help align the holes.. Once you push one side in, the other side should be easy since the axle is already moved.
(3) I put a tiny bit of anti-seize in the LCA mount, does not hurt to have a little bit.
Update: not sure if it is placebo, but my Rubicon now tracks super straight, I can keep it straight at 70 mph with one finger. I will do an alignment next week to see how much caster I gain but it is definitely a much improvement.
