Mopar LCA swap

[Fast-n-Furious]

Doesn’t matter how you loosen or tighten The nuts but torque should be done on the nut preferably.

Got it! One more question, do you think I should apply the blue locktite? Not sure if the factory used any. Anti-seize was mentioned.

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[Jtphoto]

Got it! One more question, do you think I should apply the blue locktite? Not sure if the factory used any. Anti-seize was mentioned.

Personally I use Never Seize then make sure to retorque after 50miles or so.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Personally I use Never Seize then make sure to retorque after 50miles or so.

Thanks a lot for the quick reply! This is my first JL and I’ve been learning a lot from you guys!

 

[Eyeball]

Personally I use Never Seize then make sure to retorque after 50miles or so.

Most torque specs are based on a dry nut and and bolt. If you use an anti-seize type product the torque value should be reduced by about 25% below that of dry torque values to provide the same clamping force and avoid stripping tapped holes or over stretching bolts.

(edited for clarity)

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Most torque specs are based on a dry nut and and bolt. If you use an anti-seize type product the torque value should be reduced by about 25% below that of dry torque values.

It seems there no general consensus in terms of loctite vs anti-seize on suspension bolts. I may not use neither but will spray some rust proof oil on the exposed bolt tip. Still not so sure.

 

[blnewt]

It seems there no general consensus in terms of loctite vs anti-seize on suspension bolts. I may not use neither but will spray some rust proof oil on the exposed bolt tip. Still not so sure.

I like anti seize on most anything that's exposed to water, road salt, and other corrosives, but like @Jtphoto mentioned always recheck torque after items have time to settle in, especially suspension parts.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Another weekend project and it was fun. Made a very solid wheel cribs set and the extra 9” helped a ton for replacing the LCAs. I did use the floor Jack extension handle together with the breaker bar to break loose the bolts, not bad. Also used the cribs as leverage when I torqued the bolts to 190. Had to Jack up the frame on passenger side to align the holes but no need for the driver side. Will see if the Jeep tracks better with the increased caster angles.

 

[blnewt]

Another weekend project and it was fun. Made a very solid wheel cribs set and the extra 9” helped a ton for replacing the LCAs. I did use the floor Jack extension handle together with the breaker bar to break loose the bolts, not bad. Also used the cribs as leverage when I torqued the bolts to 190. Had to Jack up the frame on passenger side to align the holes but no need for the driver side. Will see if the Jeep tracks better with the increased caster angles.

Nice job on the cribs, should make a lot of vehicle chores much less of one And yes, I'm 99.9% sure the Jeep will drive noticeably better.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Nice job on the cribs, should make a lot of vehicle chores much less of one And yes, I'm 99.9% sure the Jeep will drive noticeably better.

Thanks! Actually after seeing you suggested ramps, I thought maybe I’ll build ramps like yours. Later I came across these wheel cribs used by lots hot rod builds but very few Jeep uses them. I thought I’ll give it a try. They are solid with the center blocks!
I followed your recommendation and bout the SAE 13/16 and 15/16 sockets, perfect fit!

 

[blnewt]

Thanks! Actually after seeing you suggested ramps, I thought maybe I’ll build ramps like yours. Later I came across these wheel cribs used by lots hot rod builds but very few Jeep uses them. I thought I’ll give it a try. They are solid with the center blocks!
I followed your recommendation and bout the SAE 13/16 and 15/16 sockets, perfect fit!

Nice! Have you driven it much, curious how you're liking your "new" Jeep

 

[J.Ferreira]

Another weekend project and it was fun. Made a very solid wheel cribs set and the extra 9” helped a ton for replacing the LCAs. I did use the floor Jack extension handle together with the breaker bar to break loose the bolts, not bad. Also used the cribs as leverage when I torqued the bolts to 190. Had to Jack up the frame on passenger side to align the holes but no need for the driver side. Will see if the Jeep tracks better with the increased caster angles.

I think I need a pipe..
2 foot breaker bar just isn't cutting it. All fasteners are soaking in penetrating fluid.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

I think I need a pipe..
2 foot breaker bar just isn't cutting it. All fasteners are soaking in penetrating fluid.

I didn’t use any penetrating oil like PB blast. I was about to break loose two bolts with the 24” break bar, the other two needed the pipe.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Nice! Have you driven it much, curious how you're liking your "new" Jeep

I’ll report back next week after some highway drive.

 

[J.Ferreira]

I didn’t use any penetrating oil like PB blast. I was about to break loose two bolts with the 24” break bar, the other two needed the pipe.

I just can't seem to get enough leverage from underneath.
Building some OSB ramps in the morning to give me more wiggle room under there.

 

[blnewt]

I just can't seem to get enough leverage from underneath.
Building some OSB ramps in the morning to give me more wiggle room under there.

Got any buddies w/ a lift? After changing out to adjustable LCAs yesterday I'm going to start pimping folks w/ lifts for "next time", even w/ my ramps it still kinda sucks to get to 190, 150 no problem, it's that extra twist to 190 that's a bitch.

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