Mocopo
Well-Known Member
But they're designed that way!Huh? It's not in need of a "fix", or a recall. It's designed that way.
What they should recall are swimming pools. Everyone I know that goes swimming, gets all wet!
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But they're designed that way!Huh? It's not in need of a "fix", or a recall. It's designed that way.
What they should recall are swimming pools. Everyone I know that goes swimming, gets all wet!
Hope this helps...
Do you have the drivers side spring numbers?Hope this helps...
I have a 2.0 Willys XR, SOT NO Tow. Below is my passenger side Front and Rear...![]()
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I'll look tonight. I believe the front one was missing when I looked before.Do you have the drivers side spring numbers?
They're to keep the tires from making contact with the fender. No manufacture can sell a new vehicle that would bottom out the tire in the wheel well.First time I read the other day that mopar put the long tubes on with the 35's to satisfy the lawyers for tip over reasons?
The factory setup limited flex. As I started to wheel more aggressively I wanted more flex. Added a RK 2.5” lift and the flex improved a lot.
First pic….top is factory, bottom is after the lift
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I replaced the shocks, if you don’t, you are still going to limit your flex. I’m running with no bump.I have a stock XR, looking to get more flex as well ..
Is that the ONLY thing you had to do ? what all was involved with the RK 2.5” lift , did you have to mess with the bump stops or anything else ?
Did you replace the shocks ?
Craiger was/is correct. A one inch spacer from Teraflex pretty much solves this problem. I just installed it and gained about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches of bump stop space. Shock length is also 1.5” longer now. I just took all the bumps/dips around town that I’d bottom out on and it was just fine.No real change to the ride dynamics (other than no more bottoming out).
Cool. But does this mean you will get tire rubbing fender when at full flex, swaybar disconnected, while rock crawling? I am just trying to understand all this.Craiger was/is correct. A one inch spacer from Teraflex pretty much solves this problem. I just installed it and gained about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches of bump stop space. Shock length is also 1.5” longer now. I just took all the bumps/dips around town that I’d bottom out on and it was just fine.
Am I still going to waste 5 grand and put a 3 inch lift on and some remote reservoir shocks…..yes. I want better flex on the trails.
Item number from Teraflex for the spacers is 1155100.
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That’s a good question. I don’t really know. I’ll report back.Cool. But does this mean you will get tire rubbing fender when at full flex, swaybar disconnected, while rock crawling? I am just trying to understand all this.
If set up correctly, ride height won't have any impact on rubbing. The bump stops are sized to keep the tires out of the fenders (or the axle from contacting anything important). Bigger tires = taller bump stops. Also the 392 & diesel have a larger motor that requires longer bump stops to keep the axle from contacting something (oil pan?).Cool. But does this mean you will get tire rubbing fender when at full flex, swaybar disconnected, while rock crawling? I am just trying to understand all this.
Maybe you are new to suspension components. But you really need to have bump stops. If you don’t you will destroy your shocks, if that is your compressed limiter. Shocks fully compressed is bad. The bumps saves your shocks. Add bumps to stop your shocks from blowing up.I replaced the shocks, if you don’t, you are still going to limit your flex. I’m running with no bump.
As far as the lift, it is very straight forward install. My build thread should be in my signature line if you want to have a look.
Hardest part was cutting the axle side LCA brackets with a hole saw….and even that wasn’t too bad.
Nope, bumps set how close to the frame the axle can get - the minimum distance of a compressed suspension. That stays the same with a spacer lift or with a suspension lift. Bump stop is usually adjusted to keep from compressing too far - either for fender clearance, frame/axle/linkage clearance, or shock compressed length. With bump stops you're balancing all of this - how far up can I allow the axle to come, still clear the frame, not get into the fenders with the tires, and not bottom out my shocks. So, an example - assuming all is right with the world and you've got a lift with 37s and you need 2" additional bump stop height over a stock Jeep to clear everything, that same bump height would apply at a 2.5", 3.5", or 4.5" lift assuming the shocks were OK with it. That spacer mentioned by @onemoreokie is just adding uptravel by spacing your spring down (mimicing a lift spring), but leaving the bumps alone. So, same bump stop, same minimum compressed clearances given the same shocks and tires.Cool. But does this mean you will get tire rubbing fender when at full flex, swaybar disconnected, while rock crawling? I am just trying to understand all this.