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Mopar LCA swap

jeepauug

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So, if I get your setup and caster on my jlur with KO2 35
I should be good?
Well - I don't think this is a one size fits all scenario - you may need to play a bit. I've heard caster changes a bit based on tire size - i'd suspect 24 1/2" - 24 5/8" is about right.
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Chocolate Thunder

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Ya but, the non adjustable sport arms come at that size.
Specs:

• Tube Diameter & Wall = 42mm X 4mm
• Factory Length = 24”
• Sport Length = 24-5/8”
• Both Ends = 16mm Bolt
Yes, when I was looking at the adjustable arms I noticed the non adjustable ones and that they happen to be 24 5/8” - just the length that you said worked perfectly for you with the Dynatrac lift. Since I’ve got the same setup, is there any reason to pay the extra $100 for adjustable ones? If I were to change to a higher lift in the future I might need longer arms, but that’s not in the plan now.
 

jeepauug

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What is your castor at now that you are at 24-5/8”?
6.6 degrees - i think it's too much, BUT is does drive near perfect. I wanted 6, but would need to adjust down to 24.5 - that said, kinda done dealing with my shop / alignments etc for a while. just want to enjoy her
 

jeepauug

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Yes, when I was looking at the adjustable arms I noticed the non adjustable ones and that that happen to be 24 5/8” - just the length that you said worked perfectly for you with the Dynatrac lift. Since I’ve got the same setup, is there any reason to pay the extra $100 for adjustable ones? If I were to change to a higher lift in the future I might need longer arms, but that’s not in the plan now.
Sought lots of advice on this one - adjustable are nice for the reason you mentioned, but I also knew I'd be pissed if bought the fixed and they didn't work - so just bought the adjustable - I can tweak, which I like. You can give them a try but if for some reason they don't work, you'll need to order up new ones.
 

Roky

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6.6 degrees - i think it's too much, BUT is does drive near perfect. I wanted 6, but would need to adjust down to 24.5 - that said, kinda done dealing with my shop / alignments etc for a while. just want to enjoy her
I’m at 6.5 on both sides, drives perfect. Another reason to do adjustable is you may have to tweak it a bit to get same castor in both wheels, not that it’s critical, but closer you are the better it will drive and not pull one way or the other.
 

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Agent47

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Both my local dealer and Mymoparparts (TX) has it, I think Allmoparparts (forum vendor here) can throw in a free shipping (Code: fs2020). They will say this part do not fit your VIN (because it is part of the lift kit), but you can just go ahead tell them if it won't fit it will be on you.

Part number: 6512085AA (apparently you need two)

If you are also superstitious about reusing bolts and nuts, you can also buy
6512085AA
6104720AA
You need four sets of these. But realistically the old bolts and nuts will be just fine, they are class 10.9 which is equivalent to grade 8.
You mean two of 68322798AA right?
 

EZMFE

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So if I want my control arms to be more in the stock level position, why not use the Rancho geometry brackets? Seem like the perfect thing to do since I have the Mopar lift kit installed but just need a little more caster and don't really want to buy another set of new LCA's.
It would most likely be a good option as long as you are ok with the look and actual position of the lower brackets. Brackets and adj control arms would give you a better overall ride and some serious adjustability.

From what is it worth, the brackets actually help with things like instant center, control arm and driveshaft angles. These are a few of the side effects when lifting and more apparent as you go higher.

The more angle you have in the control arm, the more suspension force transfers to the frame. Brackets don't eliminate that but do reduce it. The adj control arms allow you to move the axles (castor) and correct for minor frame/axle squareness issues but doesn't correct all items that are changed.

Many call the brackets overkill but rarely call them useless. I can see how they could be a nice addition to the right lift.
 

EZMFE

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I used some of their products and the quality is good.

I used some other brands and totally shit.

Don't go cheap on suspension and steering, you already spent $50k, you do not want to drive a shopping cart on the road.
There is a stigma about where their parts are made though. Let's just say my TF LCA's don't say Made in USA. I paid $235 for the pair so... if I compared them to EVO or Currie at $500 a pair. I don't know maybe I did go cheap... I'm liking them either way. I feel like I did get a great deal but not sure if they will hold up bushing / abuse wise. Time will tell I guess.
 

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plex

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There is a stigma about where their parts are made though. Let's just say my TF LCA's don't say Made in USA. I paid $235 for the pair so... if I compared them to EVO or Currie at $500 a pair. I don't know maybe I did go cheap... I'm liking them either way. I feel like I did get a great deal but not sure if they will hold up bushing / abuse wise. Time will tell I guess.
I do not want to start a debate about "Made in China/US/Mexico/Mars...." I can tell you that work in manufacturing business for many years, it is all about how much you want to pay your supplier and factory. Pay them like shit, then you get shit products. Pay them well, you can get quality products from whatever shithole is making them.
 

Agent47

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I ordered a pair of these to go along with some takeoff Rubicon suspension I just picked up but haven't installed yet. Only $60 total for the pair with free shipping.
 

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Is there an accurate reliable DIY way to measure caster angle? I’d like to do a before/after measurement with the LCA installation.
 

mdallas

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I’m at 6.5 on both sides, drives perfect. Another reason to do adjustable is you may have to tweak it a bit to get same castor in both wheels, not that it’s critical, but closer you are the better it will drive and not pull one way or the other.
wouldnt this give you a negative pinion angle? isn't a neg pinion angle a "no go" ?
 

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View attachment 141997
wouldnt this give you a negative pinion angle? isn't a neg pinion angle a "no go" ?

It’s not bad, I was worried about that but it’s seems fine, no binding at flex, or vibration or anything that I can tell so far.
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