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Aluminum knuckle failure

AnnDee4444

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I'd love to have a bolt on axle truss that I could install myself without pulling the axle.

In theory a truss with U-bolts and such should provide some decent strengthening. Not sure why that is not a thing in the Jeep aftermarket.

I'd slap those in in an instant as insurance. Welding are too much of a commitment. Sounds too much like wedding. :)
Even something that just reinforces the FAD area would be nice.

You could probably build a skid that doubles as reinforcement...





 

jessedacri

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I'd love to have a bolt on axle truss that I could install myself without pulling the axle.

In theory a truss with U-bolts and such should provide some decent strengthening. Not sure why that is not a thing in the Jeep aftermarket.

I'd slap those in in an instant as insurance. Welding are too much of a commitment. Sounds too much like wedding. :)
Dude, yes. I've been hoping someone would come out with a product like this for ages. Especially for the rear axle where it has almost nothing to obstruct what could be a pretty basic design. Heavy U bolts and the right design would absolutely strengthen the axle against undue forces.
 

JeepyD

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Something like this?

Annotation 2022-03-10 163416.jpg
 

JeepyD

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Looks like they make a front diff protector as well that would act as a bolt on under "truss" of sorts. I'm sure welding is the preferred method, but this is made with the same 3/16" steel as most truss kits. I've always understood under axle trusses to be better insurance against bent tubes than over axle trusses, but they obstruct clearance a bit more. Not saying this is a truss replacement by any means, but it "may" provide some stress relief.

Annotation 2022-03-10 164117.jpg
 

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jessedacri

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Looks like they make a front diff protector as well that would act as a bolt on under "truss" of sorts. I'm sure welding is the preferred method, but this is made with the same 3/16" steel as most truss kits. I've always understood under axle trusses to be better insurance against bent tubes than over axle trusses, but they obstruct clearance a bit more. Not saying this is a truss replacement by any means, but it "may" provide some stress relief.

Annotation 2022-03-10 164117.jpg
Yeah, after running the Rancho diff skids I’m not super interested in hanging anything off the bottom of the axle again. Got hung up on everything on trails like Holcomb Creek and John Bull. If someone made a top mount U bolt version of that specifically for strengthening I’d be all over it.

Guess I should learn how to roll steel and weld, lol
 
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19 JLUR Bright Whit3

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I hit a raised berm of dirt going about 25-30mph with the passenger side of the rig. Had to swerve off trail to avoid a speeding biker coming over the crest in the opposite direction. Big long straight graded dirt road with some desert shrubbery and uneven terrain to the side - the uneven terrain is what my passenger side went out into. The front passenger wheel took the majority of the force, and the axle was the only thing damaged other than the wheel pushing up enough to pop a couple fender clips. I was running 29lb wheels and 66lb 35 Patagonia MTs and other than a Steersmarts track bar, the rest of the front end components were stock at the time.

The axle bent a few degrees upwards on that side - it didn't totally break but instead the FAD housing cracked at the spot welds and the tube going from the FAD to the C was pushed upward now that it was loose from the FAD housing's spot welds. Result was some funky camber on that side but was drivable (carefully) home. This pic was from below looking up, you can see the cracked paint between the FAD and tube suggesting upward tube movement, and if you look lose on the spot weld in the top right you can see cracks surrounding it. The other spot weld was a bit worse but I can't find the other pics.

B4C2D07C-E4EE-472D-A646-DCB839A3F8E9_1_105_c.jpeg
3908EA8C-1F46-4781-A8B7-214F6FE3ADBA_1_105_c.jpeg




I think you're safe with trusses if they didn't warp the axle housing going on. I was either gonna do that to a new stock axle or go UD44 and eventually decided to go UD44, but I still feel the urge to truss the front and rear - just am afraid of warping the housing due to the weld heat and whatever the cost might be to get the job done right. What was the ballpark cost of your trusses if you don't mind the question?
I was under my Jeep today and I dont even have welds around the FAD. I'm sure the tubes are all pressed in, but my 2019 front axle looks like this. 🤔

IMG_0815.JPG


IMG_0816.JPG


IMG_0817.JPG


IMG_0809.JPG


IMG_0810.JPG


IMG_0811.JPG
 

jessedacri

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I was under my Jeep today and I dont even have welds around the FAD. I'm sure the tubes are all pressed in, but my 2019 front axle looks like this. 🤔
Yeah that's actually normal - what you see on mine is cracked black paint that resulted from the tube moving upwards. The welds are the circular bits on the cast housing about 1 inch in from where the tube enters, circled one in this pic attached. They do a big spot weld to secure the tube once it's pressed in. Should you ever see activity on one of those circular bits, that's when you know you have a problem.
IMG_0809.JPG


If you look closely at the pic I posted of mine, you can see fresh silver steel peeking through on the bottom right of the circular weld and cracks suggesting that it's been disturbed by an impact. I wish I had a better pic and I do somewhere but I can't seem to find it. The material in that circular weld hole is attached to the tube, so when the tube moves it wants to yank free from the rest of the cast housing causing the cracks and eventual failure.
Screen Shot 2022-03-10 at 6.29.06 PM.jpg
 
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Yeah that's actually normal - what you see on mine is cracked black paint that resulted from the tube moving upwards. The welds are the circular bits on the cast housing about 1 inch in from where the tube enters, circled one in this pic attached. They do a big spot weld to secure the tube once it's pressed in. Should you ever see activity on one of those circular bits, that's when you know you have a problem.
IMG_0809.JPG


If you look closely at the pic I posted of mine, you can see fresh silver on the bottom right of the circular weld and a crack suggesting that it's been disturbed by an impact. I wish I had a better pic and I do somewhere but I can't seem to find it:
Screen Shot 2022-03-10 at 6.29.06 PM.jpg
Thanks!
 

OBJLU

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Just ordered the Reid’s and going to refresh the unit bearings while I’m at it. Front axle is fully built with truss, RCV, Dynatrac ball joints and the ARB cover which acts as a truss and now the Reid’s.
 

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It's called a plug weld, normally welding a steel tube in a cast part don't hold up and makes the tube (bend) or cast parts weaker. Plus can couse the cast parts to become brittle.
"Not directed at you" just clarification on the type or name of welding.
Now there was 2 different JL's to bust ball joints and take out aluminum hub recently in Utah, Trail Mater picked up one too.

. Damn have the prices went crazy, the cast hub part for a TJ,MJ,XJ or ZJ was about $60-90.00 since JK's. came out. I bought one years back for about $57.00 in regular auto parts store and was stocked items on hand.
 

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Having the steel knuckles and upgraded front axle is just some of the reasons I went with the Willys Xtreme Recon. So many good upgrades come with that package for the money. If and when I decide to add electronic lockers the shop quoted me $1,600 for one $3k for 2. I'll be ready to go.
 

jessedacri

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It's called a plug weld, normally welding a steel tube in a cast part don't hold up and makes the tube (bend) or cast parts weaker. Plus can couse the cast parts to become brittle.
"Not directed at you" just clarification on the type or name of welding.
Now there was 2 different JL's to bust ball joints and take out aluminum hub recently in Utah, Trail Mater picked up one too.

. Damn have the prices went crazy, the cast hub part for a TJ,MJ,XJ or ZJ was about $60-90.00 since JK's. came out. I bought one years back for about $57.00 in regular auto parts store and was stocked items on hand.

Prices all over are nuts. The Ultimate Dana 44 I bought 6 months ago for $4299 is now $5799. That was a shocker to me when I looked it up the other day,
 

Blade1668

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Prices all over are nuts. The Ultimate Dana 44 I bought 6 months ago for $4299 is now $5799. That was a shocker to me when I looked it up the other day,
"Back in the day" when I priced one for front of my XJ it was in the 3k range totally built to order. :facepalm: I should have bought 2 But I could find a solid D44 out of Ford with drivers side drop for $800 and up the correct width. Then the JK's came along n stuff went crazy.
 

roaniecowpony

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My Reid Racing cast iron knuckles came in from Northridge. Waiting on the Dynatrac balljoints.
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