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F upped my steering knuckle

Ratbert

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I purchased some used knuckles off this forum from a 392 and swapped them out with my aluminum ones on my JLURD. I also install dynatrac ball joints at the same time.

PXL_20240525_230039384.jpg
They're aluminum on EcoDiesels?
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grimmjeeper

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roaniecowpony

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Yeah I guess now I need RCVS because with the Reids they have a different turn angle and could cause my u-joints to snap?

I guess I'll test that theory out in Texas in a few weeks.
J,
The Reids have a larger stop cast onto the knuckle for the steering limit than the stock knuckle which has a screw for an adjustable stop. When you install them, you won't get as much turning angle as the OEM knuckle unless you grind the stop down. That's how you adjust the maximum angle on reids. It's been a few years, but i think the stops are on the lower area in front of and behind the lower balljoints. They are about 1/2" long x 3/8" diameter. As provided, they are painted all over, including the ends and the corner will have a small radius. If the corner is sharp and has no paint, it was ground down during installation to get more turn angle.

I believe all the geometry of the Reids are the same as oem and intended to accommodate oem axles. But, yes, the u-joint at the end of the axle is a weak area especially when turned at sharp angles.

This thread is about the jk, but it's very similiar https://www.jkowners.com/threads/reid-racing-inc-jk-knuckles-write-up.187498/
 
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roaniecowpony

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Looks like a ball joint failure, not a knuckle failure. The stud is still solidly attached to the outer knuckle. The movement is in the aftermarket ball joint itself.
I thought I saw the nut move?
 

SadRobot

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J,
The Reids have a larger stop cast onto the knuckle for the steering limit than the stock knuckle which has a screw for an adjustable stop. When you install them, you won't get as much turning angle as the OEM knuckle unless you grind the stop down. That's how you adjust the maximum angle on reids. It's been a few years, but i think the stops are on the lower area in front of and behind the lower balljoints. They are about 1/2" long x 3/8" diameter. As provided, they are painted all over, including the ends and the corner will have a small radius. If the corner is sharp and has no paint, it was ground down during installation to get more turn angle.

I believe all the geometry of the Reids are the same as oem and intended to accommodate oem axles. But, yes, the u-joint at the end of the axle is a weak area especially when turned at sharp angles.

This thread is about the jk, but it's very similiar https://www.jkowners.com/threads/reid-racing-inc-jk-knuckles-write-up.187498/
Ha yes that's the smarter explanation than what I said. Eventually I would like to swap in some Rubi axles and upgrade to RCVs but just not possible right now. I'd have to do the new axles, re-gear and replace lockers all at the same time. Maybe I can do it next year.
 

Spunky

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any idea if regular 2024 Rubicon are cast iron, hope hope hope...
The Rubicons that had the Xtreme Recon package and 35” tires were upgraded to the cast iron knuckles.
 
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jellis4148

jellis4148

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Looks like a ball joint failure, not a knuckle failure. The stud is still solidly attached to the outer knuckle. The movement is in the aftermarket ball joint itself.

It's hard to see in this video, but if you can zoom in you can see the nut moving. I've already verified it is still tight. I"m going to take the Jeep apart tonight or tomorrow and get it ready for the new parts. I've been having issues since I got back from California with that side, and I'm 99% sure the knuckle is bad. I'm replacing it with the factory aluminum since warranty is covering it, but as soon a I get the money I'm switching over to the iron ones. I do wheel as much a possible, but I'm not so hard on the Jeep that they should've gone bad.
 

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roaniecowpony

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It's hard to see in this video, but if you can zoom in you can see the nut moving. I've already verified it is still tight. I"m going to take the Jeep apart tonight or tomorrow and get it ready for the new parts. I've been having issues since I got back from California with that side, and I'm 99% sure the knuckle is bad. I'm replacing it with the factory aluminum since warranty is covering it, but as soon a I get the money I'm switching over to the iron ones. I do wheel as much a possible, but I'm not so hard on the Jeep that they should've gone bad.
That nut looks like it's very far down the threaded area of the shank. If the nut is still "tight", it's likely bottomed out on the thread runout, and the taper of the shank was not tight in the tapered bore. Check to see if you just ran out of thread when you disassemble it. There really should be a steel washer between a nut and an aluminum component. Not saying OE had a washer, but they should have. And in your case, the installer should have seen how far down the shank the nut was going and put in a thick washer to keep the nut from bottoming.
 
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chevymitchell

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Absolutely. It has to be. My cost for a new knuckle is $625 from Mopar of the junk Aluminum. I should be able to get it covered under my extended warranty. Don't really want to spend $900 for Reid's right now even though I know this will happen again.
Dude... I've got a set of aluminum knuckles here for free. Just give me an address and you can have both of them.
 
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jellis4148

jellis4148

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Dude... I've got a set of aluminum knuckles here for free. Just give me an address and you can have both of them.
I appreciate it. I was able to get it covered under warranty. So the new one is free. If I had the cash I would just be putting Reid’s in it right now.
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