I am in the desert of Calif and just got a 2021 JLU rubicon with manual. I noticed that that cross brace. I had to order if from MOPAR. Should be here this week.
My 2021 manual rubicon did come with one.
Hi do you have the 2.0?
Yes, a 2.0 and it runs from the filter and when the drain plug is just barely making a stream or dripping…it runs the general downhill path of these blue lines pictured and comes out of both rectangular holes at the back.
Thank you for the detailed answer. I'm a masochist. I keep on taking the Jeep for the "free" oil change and tire rotation, only to find my lugnuts severely overtorqued, my belly skid full of oil and having to waste time removing/reinstalling the Tazer.Yes, a 2.0 and it runs from the filter and when the drain plug is just barely making a stream or dripping…it runs the general downhill path of these blue lines pictured and comes out of both rectangular holes at the back.
I have part of it Pictured in my last post on the edge of the picture. Problem is I need to modify the dam (grinder) and make a couplemore coming from the oil filter area funneling it all to the drain plug cutout area.
Thank you. Once I wean myself off the "free" oil changes, I'll probably install this to do it myself.
The top bracket contacts the skid at full compression. I switched to the Rancho which fits fine.
Valvomax oil drain system. I installed it on my last oil change right before installing the Asfir skid. It comes with a little drain tube you plug on their drain bolt, so oil flows through a tube and you can direct it wherever you want. It was cheap too, like $40 maybe?The oil change is a pain with the Asfir and I’m working on a solution that would be best implemented BEFORE you install. I picked up some JB Weld Water Weld (for use with aluminum). It’s basically a dam.
I kneaded it and made it into a rope (it’s a touch more gooey than the regular JB from my memory. Just wait for it to start to get warm from the chemical hardening process and that should make it easier to work with. Get the section of rope into position and press down/contour as you see fit. I put a curve in one side to cup the area.
I did the drain plug area and forgot about the mess the oil filter adapter drains down until the oil change so now I need to go back in and add more. SMH
Again, get some Water Weld and do it before you install. It’s more difficult to do a nice job because it’s tight above the skid.
Borowing a pic looking from the front of the skid from MILT earlier in the thread to illustrate (Thanks)….
To get the drips to break off and fall on both sides of the cutout rather than running down toward the back of the Jeep I’d run the rope of weld over the edge of the cutout and actually come to a small piece pointing down past the bottom of the skid.
Someone has suggested this a few times. If I smash my skid, I’ll definitely smash a valve hanging out. And it’ll give leverage to harm the threads is my thinking.
I dont think it sticks out enough to be smashed. Plus if you end up bending the skid that badly itd have to be a catastrophic hit, and youll smash other things including the oil pan. There is also a big hole on the skid where the valvemax is located. I honestly dont think this is likely. But I dont know how close to the skid it is on the 2.0. It is pretty far on the 3.6. I also hope the skid has enough support to not go that far on a hit. Hell if it does it would cause more damage than that lol.
