Aftermarket diff covers needed for Rubi XR? ARB?

[ColoradoMike]

Hi, team-
I bashed the front diff on my Rubi XR pretty good last weekend. It doesn't seem like it's leaking or anything, but deeply scraped/gouged.
I see the red ARB diff covers on the shelf at 4wheel Parts. Are those things meaningfully stouter than the diff covers that come stock on a Rubicon, which I assume are relatively stout anyway?
Do these aftermarket covers really make it more likely that you survive hits with no meaningful damage?
Or is a diff skid the only way to really do that? I had a Rough Country front diff skid on my last Rubi, but when I installed my oil pan skid, the diff skid would no longer fit. I assume I am in the same boat with my current vehicle.
For those that do install the ARB diff covers... is there any increased likelihood of leaks, substandard seals, any of that crap compared to the OEM diff covers?
And if I install ARB diff covers, have I voided any aspects of my warranty?
That's a lot of questions; thanks in advance.

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[Bocephus]

Arb covers are known to be stout and shouldn’t cause problems if installed properly. Nodular iron is indeed stronger than the stamped steel stock cover, and can take a greater beating. I don’t know how to quantify it, others might say more.

HD diff covers will increase durability, and skids too. Some people do both. Some companies like Metalcloak and Next Venture sell HD diff covers that couple with their diff skid.

On warranty concerns…a dealer might point to your cover if you have leaks (almost certainly they would not warranty repair) or maybe break your ring and pinion (total speculation). I thinks a fairly low risk modification, I wouldn’t worry too much about it.

I would go with a well-known and popular cover (ARB definitely among them) as opposed to something new on market from unknown vendors. Ive seen some informative YouTube videos that point out how the shape of the diff cover influences oil volume, flow behavior, and I think temps. Honestly not sure how critical those details are, but I’d feel most comfortable going with a well-known cover that lots of folks are using and not having problems.

dana spicer diff cover with rancho skid below . Took a little clearancing to make them work together.

 

[ColoradoMike]

Arb covers are known to be stout and shouldn’t cause problems if installed properly. Nodular iron is indeed stronger than the stamped steel stock cover, and can take a greater beating. I don’t know how to quantify it, others might say more.

HD diff covers will increase durability, and skids too. Some people do both. Some companies like Metalcloak and Next Venture sell HD diff covers that couple with their diff skid.

On warranty concerns…a dealer might point to your cover if you have leaks (almost certainly they would not warranty repair) or maybe break your ring and pinion (total speculation). I thinks a fairly low risk modification, I wouldn’t worry too much about it.

I would go with a well-known and popular cover (ARB definitely among them) as opposed to something new on market from unknown vendors. Ive seen some informative YouTube videos that point out how the shape of the diff cover influences oil volume, flow behavior, and I think temps. Honestly not sure how critical those details are, but I’d feel most comfortable going with a well-known cover that lots of folks are using and not having problems.

dana spicer diff cover with rancho skid below . Took a little clearancing to make them work together.

Thanks a lot; very interesting notion about shape as it relates to oil flow, temps etc.

 

[Wheelin Matt]

Older thread but curious if you ever replaced your diff covers Mike?
I installed Purple Cranium diff “guards” on both front and rear and they have certainly protected the diff cover from damage. They are not a skid however (like Rancho or MetalCloak) but they protect from a front (or rear) impact to the cover, which is my main concern. I had the Rancho diff skids in my previous JL and felt they decreased clearance too much.
I thought about the ARB covers but these are cheaper and extremely easy to install (don’t need to remove cover) so it was a no brainer.
BTW, I also have the ASFIR engine/trans skid and a MORE t-case skid (both aluminum)

 

[donmontalvo]

I had to replace my front diff cover on my 2021 JLUR after it got bashed in a bit. Luckily no damage to the gears. I went ahead and replaced the covers on the front (M210) and rear (M220) diff covers.

Before taking the dive, I did some research, including comparing different brands of diff covers, and sorting out whether I need diff covers or just skid plates. I knew Nodular iron was a must.

I decided on the ARB diff covers, ordered them and when they came in I worked on swapping them. They're really very beefy. The covers are probably 4x the thickness of the stock covers. The bolts are hex head and recessed.

The drain and fill plugs are very well designed. The drain plug has a magnet that sits higher than the stock magnet which is flush with the inside surface. The fill plug has a clever dip stick, so you can check the differential fluid oil level.

The jury is still out for me, on whether skid plates are still needed. I guess we'll see. I'm moving to AZ in the end of March and plan to do a whole lot'a wheeling!

https://donmontalvo.com/2022/10/09/barney-rubble-or-bam-bam/

This picture is upside down, notice the filler dip stick? It should be pointing down of course. The silver tip is magnetic. On the top of the picture is the drain plug, which also has a silver magnet sticking into the oil space.

 

[ColoradoMike]

I got the ARBs as well. Probably won't do skids.

 

[Headbarcode]

The jury is still out for me, on whether skid plates are still needed. I guess we'll see. I'm moving to AZ in the end of March and plan to do a whole lot'a wheeling!

https://donmontalvo.com/2022/10/09/barney-rubble-or-bam-bam/

This picture is upside down, notice the filler dip stick? It should be pointing down of course. The silver tip is magnetic. On the top of the picture is the drain plug, which also has a silver magnet sticking into the oil space.

I got the ARBs as well. Probably won't do skids.

The rear axle has a couple of structural ribs that run from side to side along the bottom of the diff. Those ribs make it much harder to drag the diff over stuff vs a diff skid that provides a flat surface. Think of going down a snow covered hill with a snowboard vs a cheese grater.

The front axle is relatively smooth bottomed, but up until the last model year or so, the diff drain plug was located in the middle of that smooth section. This left the plug exposed to being damaged enough to not be able to get the tool on it for removal. Or it would become loosened enough to start losing oil. If not caught soon enough, the diff would run dry.

In my opinion, having a rear diff skid is more of a necessity than a front one due to the different contours of the housings. A front skid has more value when protecting an oem diff cover flange from being pealed back and losing its oil.

Here's a pic of my ARB covers, with a Metalcloak skid on the rear and nothing on the front. I do plan on swapping out the Metalcloak rear skid for a set of front and rear skids from Next Venture Motorsports. I like that they both extend inward enough to also protects the pinion yokes.

 

[ColoradoMike]

The rear axle has a couple of structural ribs that run from side to side along the bottom of the diff. Those ribs make it much harder to drag the diff over stuff vs a diff skid that provides a flat surface. Think of going down a snow covered hill with a snowboard vs a cheese grater.

The front axle is relatively smooth bottomed, but up until the last model year or so, the diff drain plug was located in the middle of that smooth section. This left the plug exposed to being damaged enough to not be able to get the tool on it for removal. Or it would become loosened enough to start losing oil. If not caught soon enough, the diff would run dry.

In my opinion, having a rear diff skid is more of a necessity than a front one due to the different contours of the housings. A front skid has more value when protecting an oem diff cover flange from being pealed back and losing its oil.

Here's a pic of my ARB covers, with a Metalcloak skid on the rear and nothing on the front. I do plan on swapping out the Metalcloak rear skid for a set of front and rear skids from Next Venture Motorsports. I like that they both extend inward enough to also protects the pinion yokes.

Good thoughts on the rear vs front. I might reconsider adding a skid for the rear.

 

[Headbarcode]

Good thoughts on the rear vs front. I might reconsider adding a skid for the rear.

To take it a step further: I've read some people's complaints about losing a bit of ground clearance due to skid plates. I'd personally rather have a smooth sled shaped surface at say 11" off the ground, than a land anchor at 12" or even 13".

Cheers, buddy!

 

[Rodeoflyer]

Love my ARB covers, however mine like others shown in the pics turned PINK haha.

These covers are bulletproof, you'll never lift a lip. Mine are all beat up on the bottom lip but ZERO leaks.. awesome covers. They're basically the same material as the housing itself.

I'm thinking about just using rust reformer rattle can black on them because the bolts are rusting too.

I have these on the truck.. the steel I think are even more durable https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/high-capacity-aam-11-5-differential-cover-welded

 

[Starboard M]

I did an ARB front cover, and while I like the beef, the fill and fluid level check seems overly complicated to the more traditional plug.

In the front suspension room is pretty scarce and getting everything filled and checked was a PITA. Not that you really do that very often, but, food for thought.

 

[AnnDee4444]

In my opinion, having a rear diff skid is more of a necessity than a front one due to the different contours of the housings.

I've also found that it's much easier to avoid hitting the front differential than the rear.

FWIW: I've got a Next Venture rear skid and the tiny Maximus-3 drain plug "skid" on the front. At stock Rubicon height with the OEM metal front bumper (and skid plate) I'm not sure I need any more protection on the front.

 

[Headbarcode]

I've also found that it's much easier to avoid hitting the front differential than the rear.

FWIW: I've got a Next Venture rear skid and the tiny Maximus-3 drain plug "skid" on the front. At stock Rubicon height with the OEM metal front bumper (and skid plate) I'm not sure I need any more protection on the front.

The only skid plate I've added to my front axle is the Metalcloak FAD skid. If I end up adding a front diff skid, it'll be more for the purpose of protecting the pinion yoke than anything else. I've had my eye on the Next Venture skids, and swapping out my Metalcloak rear diff skid.

Your drain plug skid also protects the oem cover flange from getting peeled back, right? My thoughts are that that's the only real concern with the front factory cover. The steering linkages block it from getting pushed into the carrier assembly.

What are your thoughts about the Next Venture rear skid?

 

[AnnDee4444]

The only skid plate I've added to my front axle is the Metalcloak FAD skid. If I end up adding a front diff skid, it'll be more for the purpose of protecting the pinion yoke than anything else. I've had my eye on the Next Venture skids, and swapping out my Metalcloak rear diff skid.

Your drain plug skid also protects the oem cover flange from getting peeled back, right? My thoughts are that that's the only real concern with the front factory cover. The steering linkages block it from getting pushed into the carrier assembly.

What are your thoughts about the Next Venture rear skid?

The only problem I've had with the Next Venture rear skid was that it didn't have quite enough clearance for the eTorque battery at factory ride height (at least on a 2-door). Some very light grinding on the skid allowed for enough clearance. The skid itself is practically indestructible, and far less noticeable than the golden diaper (if it's black). Only works with factory cover or their cover.




Yes, the drain plug skid protects the bottom lip of the cover. Probably only works with the factory cover.

 

[Headbarcode]

The only problem I've had with the Next Venture rear skid was that it didn't have quite enough clearance for the eTorque battery at factory ride height (at least on a 2-door). Some very light grinding on the skid allowed for enough clearance. The skid itself is practically indestructible, and far less noticeable than the golden diaper (if it's black). Only works with factory cover or their cover.




Yes, the drain plug skid protects the bottom lip of the cover. Probably only works with the factory cover.

Yeah, I can see the catch 22 with that extension out to the yoke. I recently swapped in a set of 4.5" springs that actually gave a bit over 5.5" up front and 6" out back, which is what I was needing in order to fully stretch out the shocks.

I ended up having to cut the whole rear inner corner off my 48v skid to clear the yoke and ujoint. It's definitely been weakened, but I figured there'd be a higher chance of chewing up a driveshaft while avoiding any heavy dragging situations. I do plan on adding skids, just teetering on the fence between Metalcloaks steel and Artecs aluminum.

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