Why do I have bump steer?

[JustDucky]

Okay. I’m dumb. What is bump steer? I’ve heard the term before but have no clue what it is.

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[jadmt]

Okay. I’m dumb. What is bump steer? I’ve heard the term before but have no clue what it is.

when you hit a bump your steering wheel turns on its own

 

[JustDucky]

when you hit a bump your steering wheel turns on its own

Well that’s not cool.

 

[rock-rod]

Quick update - I swapped out the extended mopar LCAs for a pair of stock length LCAs and this definitely calmed things down. There’s less feedback in the steering wheel and and less tram-lining and the bump steer seems to be less of an issue (drove it on the interstate at 80mph and only noticed a little bit of bump steer, but not nearly as bad as before). I need to check my toe next and see where that’s at but I definitely making progress in the right direction.

 

[jadmt]

Quick update - I swapped out the extended mopar LCAs for a pair of stock length LCAs and this definitely calmed things down. There’s less feedback in the steering wheel and and less tram-lining and the bump steer seems to be less of an issue (drove it on the interstate at 80mph and only noticed a little bit of bump steer, but not nearly as bad as before). I need to check my toe next and see where that’s at but I definitely making progress in the right direction.

based on the shock measurement you posted with stock control arms I would run the geo bracket washer in the +3.5 position. You have about what I have for lift and this where the owner of AEV told me to run it. I initially had it in the middle position but felt I had too much lift so asked the owner what he recommended and after giving him my measurements he said the +3.5 position was probably best. this is my alignment sheet. it drives no hands on the wheel at 90mph + tracks arrow straight.

 

[rock-rod]

Awesome! Thanks for the info!

 

[rock-rod]

Another update: Just finished a run to the airport driving at 75-80mph hitting all manner of bumps and expansion joints. Before swapping the LCAs, the jeep was all over the road and difficult to control. Now it’s steady and easier to control. The bump steer seems to be gone now and there’s no sign of the steering wheel feeling disconnected from the front tires. Tram-lining is also gone. Clearly too much caster can have a negative effect.

 

[goose5321]

Another update: Just finished a run to the airport driving at 75-80mph hitting all manner of bumps and expansion joints. Before swapping the LCAs, the jeep was all over the road and difficult to control. Now it’s steady and easier to control. The bump steer seems to be gone now and there’s no sign of the steering wheel feeling disconnected from the front tires. Tram-lining is also gone. Clearly too much caster can have a negative effect.

Do you happen to know what your caster is at now? I recently resolved a shimmy issue, but I’m now dealing with bump steer. My current caster settings are 6.5° on the driver’s side and 7° on the passenger side, using adjustable control arms and Teraflex correction brackets on a brand new MC GC 3.5" lift I installed recently. I’ve noticed that some geometry correction brackets allow for adjustment based on lift height, but Teraflex’s do not.

Do you think removing my brackets could help improve my bump steer? Also at 3.5" of lift, would a high steer kit be necessary or is it not needed at this height?

If you can answer these, I’d greatly appreciate it! But if anyone else in the thread has insight, thanks in advance as well.

 

[cosmokenney]

The biggest cause of bump steer is the drag link and the track bar not running parallel with each other…sometimes if the axle isn’t centered it will be out of parallel with the drag link…. I’d check this first….

Is centering the axle the only way to make them parallel?

 

[Roky]

Is centering the axle the only way to make them parallel?

It’s the easiest way with an adjustable track bar, if you have a stock track bar and on a, up to 2.5” lift, you can get a front track bar relocation bracket…. It will raise the track bar, which will pull the axle back to center which will get you back in parallel…. If you’re lifted high enough you can flip the drag link and bracket the track bar as well…

 

[cosmokenney]

It’s the easiest way with an adjustable track bar, if you have a stock track bar and on a, up to 2.5” lift, you can get a front track bar relocation bracket…. It will raise the track bar, which will pull the axle back to center which will get you back in parallel…. If you’re lifted high enough you can flip the drag link and bracket the track bar as well…

Thanks! I have an adjustable track bar. But was wondering if there are other methods. Sounds like the track bar might be the only way. Now I just have to figure out how to tell if they are actually parallel. Or how to measure both sides of the axle to see if it is centered.

 

[Roky]

Thanks! I have an adjustable track bar. But was wondering if there are other methods. Sounds like the track bar might be the only way. Now I just have to figure out how to tell if they are actually parallel. Or how to measure both sides of the axle to see if it is centered.

I just eyeball the parallel part, but i usually measure like in the pic for centering…..

 

[AnnDee4444]

Related link: http://bulletproofsteering.com/geometry.html

 

[jadmt]

Is centering the axle the only way to make them parallel?

centering the axles will not cure bump steer...

 

[cosmokenney]

centering the axles will not cure bump steer...

So... help a brother out. What DOES cure bump steer? In the posts above they claim making the drag link and track bar parallel will. Do you refute that?

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