Permanently disable engine auto start stop (ESS) at stoplights?

[Chris2183]

For sure don't want to pay either 100+ or 300+ in whatever module to disable ESS.
Did someone test what happen you just short that ESS switch? I heard now jeep is all on the so called CAN-BUS system, so it is not a switch short job can disable something.
What about using arduino, when the vehicle is started - a 12v detected, short the circuit once. That's very easy to do in arduino, I just want to see if anyone test it.

There was a few threads a couple of years ago that discuss bypassing ESS by unhooking the hood pin. The downside of this is a constant nag light. . Also this thread from a guy that designed his own ESS bypass.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/disabling-ess-auto-start-stop-yes-i-know.13167/

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[zrickety]

Just unplug the connector going to the auxiliary battery. Yes the ESS warning light will stay on but that is it. Simple solution and can easily be plugged back on if wanted. This is what we did on our JL.

I had heard about this but yours is the only pic that came up in the search. Thanks!

 

[WranglerMan]

As @SmartStopStart.com advised using Steve’s product does not bypass the SGW.. I have been running mine for over two years and until recently my SGW was intact but I ended up putting in a ECRI SGW bypass so I could connect to JSCAN without having to unplug & plug in so now my Gateway is open and I was advised by the folks over at ECRI if I leave it plugged in was it an issue and they advised no issues like power draw or anything but if I go in for service and they connect it will flag the SGW is bypassed.

As far as @Bearkat advised you can just unplug the IBS, yes it will flag a EVIC error and will show ESS not available/Service Stop/Start but this can be addressed with JSCAN as you can turn it off.

I honestly don’t think there is a way to completely gut out ESS and at present the best we have is to bypass it or live with it.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

@zrickety

You would be stupido to disconnect or turn off the IBS Sensor that you show in your pic... Do your homework in regard to the IBS Sensor and you know why it is best to leave it be.

Also, another way that some deal with ESS, is by disconnecting the plunger and that is also stupido.

Both the above are stupido because you set your JL up for a host of negative issues lets say..

IF you cannot deal with pushing the ESS button then so the smart thing and just spend the $129 on a SmartStopStart unit. You will someday be able to sell it easily after you sell your JL. You will get a good chunk of that $129 back. (Tazer JL will also deal with ESS really well)

There is another unit out there that deals with ESS.... it is called AutoStopStart Eliminator...yes, it sells for about $90 but .... it is known to hiccup... cause issues on occasion and the resale value on it is very very poor.

You are far far better of getting a SmartStopStart unit that never ever hiccups and that you can easily resell and partially recoop your $ you spent for it. (or a Tazer JL)

Also, anyone that suggests you use JSCAN to deal with Stop/Start.... well, laugh at them...

.

 

[zrickety]

@zrickety

You would be stupido to disconnect or turn off the IBS Sensor that you show in your pic... Do your homework in regard to the IBS Sensor and you know why it is best to leave it be.

Also, another way that some deal with ESS, is by disconnecting the plunger and that is also stupido.

Both the above are stupido because you set your JL up for a host of negative issues lets say..

IF you cannot deal with pushing the ESS button then so the smart thing and just spend the $129 on a SmartStopStart unit. You will someday be able to sell it easily after you sell your JL. You will get a good chunk of that $129 back. (Tazer JL will also deal with ESS really well)

There is another unit out there that deals with ESS.... it is called AutoStopStart Eliminator...yes, it sells for about $90 but .... it is known to hiccup... cause issues on occasion and the resale value on it is very very poor.

You are far far better of getting a SmartStopStart unit that never ever hiccups and that you can easily resell and partially recoop your $ you spent for it. (or a Tazer JL)

Also, anyone that suggests you use JSCAN to deal with Stop/Start.... well, laugh at them...

.

Thanks. These are the same plugs that go into the Tazer mini? Maybe I will just bite the bullet for more features.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Thanks. These are the same plugs that go into the Tazer mini? Maybe I will just bite the bullet for more features.

@zrickety

Yes, SSS and Tazer JL Mini install using the same 2 connectors at the Security Gateway.

Do your homework... think think and then decide how to proceed. Tazer, SSS unit or..... Another way to go is use JSCAN for some added features along with a SSS unit.....

DO, do.... if you go with either .... buy the SGW Extension Cable from ZAutomotive. Can be used with a SSS unit, a Tazer JL Mini or an aftermarket SGW Bypass unit... This extension, I'd say is a must have for most guys..... makes life 125% easier when removing or re-installing the Tazer or SSS or Aftermarket SGW bypass.

.

 

[WranglerMan]

@zrickety I have disabled my IBS by both unplugging and also thru JSCAN for testing but currently have it enabled, yes the IBS does serve a function and below is an explanation of some info I researched, it’s a bit of a dramatic explanation but it basically saves fuel and in engineering theory saves battery life, the alternator always puts out 100% as you can’t control the speed at which the pulley rotates so the IBS to simplify things directs how much voltage is put into the batteries based on there current SOH, SOC, it does this taking into consideration of lots of calculations that are stored in the module and communicates that to the ECU.

I won’t go off and dive into how this affects ESS as a lot of us all don’t like ESS but the IBS plays a strong role on how ESS operates based on calculations from the IBS.

The JL relies on regenerative charging so the closer to 100% charged the batteries are the lower the voltage one will see on the EVIC and the lower the charge applied to the batteries and again this in theory is supposed to save fuel and increase battery life but to what extent I’m not sure and I’m sure only the Engineers that designed it can give you that figure but I doubt it’s a huge savings in either category.

As batteries age they are prone to losing a charge quicker and as this happens the IBS will calculate this and adjust the charge accordingly but the worst thing that can happen if you disable it is the alternator with throw 100% of its power to the batteries and you may or may not lose some fuel economy and reduce battery life but batteries start to fail from day one as they are considered expendable.

If one is experiencing ESS not available/battery charging it can be because if a bad battery but also a failed IBS as well but a failed IBS does generate a stored code that can be accessed with a code reader…trust me as I have forced the code to appear during testing.

Here is an excerpt from some info I found on IBS operation:

While the engine is running, the IBS communicates with the DME (or generic term ECU or main computer or engine control unit) passing information about the health of the battery.

After the engine is off and the car has been shut down for a while the car goes to sleep with nearly all computers shutting down except the remote entry, clock, convenience settings, etc.) While the car sleeps the IBS wakes up about once per minute to take a quick measurement to assess whether there is enough voltage to restart the car. If the voltage is dropping too far the IBS can send a signal to the DME and wake it up, with the purpose that the DME can then turn off systems in the car using power. This wake up is designed to be a one time event.

The IBS has a microprocessor that can be damaged by moisture (common for older models before they began waterproofed the IBS). If the IBS is malfunctioning it can wake up the DME over and over for no reason. The DME draws a large amount of power and will quickly drain a battery.

By disconnecting the IBS you interrupt the repeated wake ups of the DME and preserve battery voltage. When the IBS is disconnected the DME has no information regarding battery health so it sets the alternator output at around 14.2V, which may over a period of time shorten battery life.

Sorry for my rambling but to just say disabling the IBS is stupid with no explanation is unacceptable without explaining why and now maybe I should go off and review a key fob

 

[Pinky Tuscadero]

Our first ESS system is on order right now, nothing like that on our old JK's so I'll be interested in how this thread pans out. Is it really that annoying on normal driving to have the engine shut off and restart and if so, wouldn't we get used to just pushing the button ?
Perhaps Jeep intentionally installed this just so we could hear all the nice compliments from the other drivers better at the lights ?

 

[zrickety]

@zrickety I have disabled my IBS by both unplugging and also thru JSCAN for testing but currently have it enabled, yes the IBS does serve a function and below is an explanation of some info I researched, it’s a bit of a dramatic explanation but it basically saves fuel and in engineering theory saves battery life, the alternator always puts out 100% as you can’t control the speed at which the pulley rotates so the IBS to simplify things directs how much voltage is put into the batteries based on there current SOH, SOC, it does this taking into consideration of lots of calculations that are stored in the module and communicates that to the ECU.

I won’t go off and dive into how this affects ESS as a lot of us all don’t like ESS but the IBS plays a strong role on how ESS operates based on calculations from the IBS.

The JL relies on regenerative charging so the closer to 100% charged the batteries are the lower the voltage one will see on the EVIC and the lower the charge applied to the batteries and again this in theory is supposed to save fuel and increase battery life but to what extent I’m not sure and I’m sure only the Engineers that designed it can give you that figure but I doubt it’s a huge savings in either category.

As batteries age they are prone to losing a charge quicker and as this happens the IBS will calculate this and adjust the charge accordingly but the worst thing that can happen if you disable it is the alternator with throw 100% of its power to the batteries and you may or may not lose some fuel economy and reduce battery life but batteries start to fail from day one as they are considered expendable.

If one is experiencing ESS not available/battery charging it can be because if a bad battery but also a failed IBS as well but a failed IBS does generate a stored code that can be accessed with a code reader…trust me as I have forced the code to appear during testing.

Here is an excerpt from some info I found on IBS operation:



Sorry for my rambling but to just say disabling the IBS is stupid with no explanation is unacceptable without explaining why and now maybe I should go off and review a key fob

This is great info, thanks. I didn't know it played a role with the alternator, that's pretty important.

 

[Timmyjoe]

I've been using the Smart Stop/Start module for the last couple years on our 2019 2-door V6 automatic. At first I hated that the Jeep had stop/start but now, with the eliminator, I appreciate it for our circumstances.

Unfortunately we live surrounded by two train lines, so we regularly have to sit for 2-3 minutes at RR crossings whenever we go anywhere. With the extra battery and beefier starter motor, I now have no qualms about shutting off the motor when I'm stopped by a train. The Jeep springs back into life with just a press on the brake and a touch of the ignition.

In previous vehicles I was always worried about the extra wear and tear on the battery and starter from shutting the motor off at the crossings.

Best,
Tim

 

[WranglerMan]

This is great info, thanks. I didn't know it played a role with the alternator, that's pretty important.

Don’t overthink the IBS, I did as my OCD directed me to thats when I started digging and trying to understand what it’s role is and in the case of ESS it plays a big role but only to an extent

Just think of the IBS as a sort of smart charger, it does not do the actual charging as that’s the alternators job but the IBS as it gathers and collects info on the batteries condition directs the charging output of the alternator so when you say unplug it the first thing it does is generate and store a few codes and also disables the ESS system and lastly if tells the alternator there is low voltage so it goes to 100% output.

Now going to 100% is the way vehicles used to charge as if the vehicle was runnIng it kicked out 14+ volts and the designed amp rating so it basically kept your battery 100% but as the powers to be dictated that vehicles be more efficient this design came into play.

AGM batteries are are kinda picky about charging so one key role of the IBS is to monitor the battery health and current charge and with that info it only sends what’s needed to the batteries to keep them at peak but in all honestly I have no idea if running the charge at 14+ with max amps will take life from the battery in the long run.

Also note that the IBS has to go thru a relearn process each time it’s powered down and it takes time to relearn, so when you pull the negative terminal that the IBS is connected to and disconnect the two wires that carry info to the BCM/ECU it takes from my research 5 regular starts and at least 8 hrs between each one and during this time ESS is supposed to be unavailable but who knows.

Lots here see 14+ volts all the time and others see 12.7 a lot and then others see everything in between so as I close down from rambling the biggest piece of advice I have is to keep your batteries at peak charge and address issues as they come up but I can promise if you disable the IBS the sky won’t fall and the worst I can think that will happen is you will have an annoying EVIC message, ESS won’t work and you possibly may lose some battery longevity but I doubt you would be stranded.

 

[Ronbo Ranger]

I have a tazer jl mini.. but I won't use it until the warranty is done. Then I will get rid of the start stop option by reversing the option to remain off unless I select it to kill the engine. I can't see how this stupid nanny device is of any use in off road use. Just how much gas does this option save in comparison to wear and tear on the starter and battery?

 

[WranglerMan]

I have a tazer jl mini.. but I won't use it until the warranty is done. Then I will get rid of the start stop option by reversing the option to remain off unless I select it to kill the engine. I can't see how this stupid nanny device is of any use in off road use. Just how much gas does this option save in comparison to wear and tear on the starter and battery?

I would not wait to use the Tazer, thousands are in service without any issues and as long as you unmarry and remove before any service it’s a non issue, I used my original two piece Tazer as soon as i could back in 2018 and yes there were early growing pains but all these have been addressed, I don’t use one anymore and use another similar product but these types of devices provide us with so much more than just ESS disabling

 

[mopac001]

For months now the order guides (copies of which are available in a thread on the ordering section of this site) have shown many configurations where the 3.6 is available with the automatic transmission and the base ESS rather than eTorque. This is how I ordered a 2021 JLU Sahara back in July that I took delivery on last week. It has the auto and just the 2 battery ESS, no eTorque. I read a lot of good things about eTorque when doing my research and I was amendable to it when I thought there was no choice with the 3.6/auto. I plan on keeping this JLU for a very long time (it replaces a Chrysler van we've had for 250K miles, 14 years and counting) and opted for what I hope will be fewer complications. Once you get past the 8yr/80K warranty eTorque still leaves you with 2 batteries PLUS the cooling lines PLUS the heating lines PLUS the BSG.

 

[palmor]

Our first ESS system is on order right now, nothing like that on our old JK's so I'll be interested in how this thread pans out. Is it really that annoying on normal driving to have the engine shut off and restart and if so, wouldn't we get used to just pushing the button ?
Perhaps Jeep intentionally installed this just so we could hear all the nice compliments from the other drivers better at the lights ?

For me it’s a non issue. It’s also tied to how hard you are pressing the brake (at least on my 2018) when you stop so it’s completely doable to actually never engage it or restart the engine without taking your foot off the brake pedal.

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