Hilarious.Ok we get it. You can afford a tape measure and a fancy finger but still can’t pull off a start stop device. Run along now and go be poor somewhere else
@nagoya10![]()
I hate it but I always just push the button...I like stop/start but I usually just push the button when I get in my Jeep or sometime down the road. $0 spent.

Excellent question. That does seem to be unrelated to whether ESS should be enabled or not.Has anyone speculated on the reasoning behind the ESS defeat plunger under the hood? I can't come up with anything. I get the need for a "hood open" warning lamp. Absent this vital warning lamp you could easily find yourself driving around with your hood open. You wouldn't be able to see where you're going! This would be extremely dangerous for both you and the motoring public.
This is a very good question indeed. Why two identical hood sensors positioned right next to each other that perform different monitoring functions??? Surely only one sensor could perform the functions of both? It’s almost like the engineers gave a stock ESS work around, albeit without disabling the warning lampHas anyone speculated on the reasoning behind the ESS defeat plunger under the hood? I can't come up with anything. I get the need for a "hood open" warning lamp. Absent this vital warning lamp you could easily find yourself driving around with your hood open. You wouldn't be able to see where you're going! This would be extremely dangerous for both you and the motoring public.
I've been told it's for Mechanics working under the hood so that the motor doesn't shut off while diagnosing. But the same thing could be accomplished by hitting the ESS button, so I'm not really confident that is the only reason.Has anyone speculated on the reasoning behind the ESS defeat plunger under the hood? I can't come up with anything. I get the need for a "hood open" warning lamp. Absent this vital warning lamp you could easily find yourself driving around with your hood open. You wouldn't be able to see where you're going! This would be extremely dangerous for both you and the motoring public.
If I was local to you I would have no problem stopping by your place to hook it up for you free of charge. It took me less than 5 minutes to get mine installed. I removed the trim panel below the steering column for greater access. I kind of laid on my right shoulder to get in there.
Unfortunately I’m in eastern PA. The closest I’ll be to you will be Hatteras NC between Christmas and New Years later this year.
DJ, it’s not married to the boot. I have had mine off a handful of times for various installs. A plastic panel tool works, although I no longer use one. I just grab the bottom of the panel and vigorously snatch it off and out.Hello there... Do you have any tips on how to actually remove the trim panel below the steering column without permanently messing it up? I have a 22 JLU Rubicon and the panel is quite large and appears to be married to the flexible boot around the column. I am trying to get the SGW bypass cable and extension cable installed.
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Thanks for the info sir.. FCA doesn't make this easy. I will wait until it warms up here in MI as it's quite cold and I don't want the plastic to be so brittle and cold that I end up breaking whatever tabs are behind it.DJ, it’s not married to the boot. I have had mine off a handful of times for various installs. A plastic panel tool works, although I no longer use one. I just grab the bottom of the panel and vigorously snatch it off and out.
The damage could come when you reinstall the panel and don’t have the little alignment tabs that the white clips attach to on the back of the panel aligned correctly with the slots in the dash.Hello there... Do you have any tips on how to actually remove the trim panel below the steering column without permanently messing it up? I have a 22 JLU Rubicon and the panel is quite large and appears to be married to the flexible boot around the column. I am trying to get the SGW bypass cable and extension cable installed.
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