When the dealership first rotated the tires of my last JLUR they asked if I wanted all five done or just four. They screwed up and just did four. The next iteration I asked for five again. They refused until they verified that the delta in tread depth didn't exceed whatever their limits were.
I understand racing. (I did it for over a decade). But this isn't racing.
My experience with my 2004 Audi allroad with Torsen AWD is similar to this. I shredded a tire when I had about half of the initial tread depth remaining on the set, and I had to replace all four tires (while the road hazard warranty covered only the damaged tire). About 2000 miles later, one of those still newish tires got an unrepairable side-wall puncture, and I had to replace only that one (covered by the road hazard warranty).
He literally stated it was for weight savings, and a factory 33 is far safer than the garbage temporary spare that nearly every passenger vehicle comes with these days. Just because they aren't doing it YOUR way doesn't make it wrong.It is on the low side for sure. Loading 4 larger people into my JK a couple months ago we rubbed tires over bumps, never saw that before, stock suspension with 33's on a rhd, no damage but took a bit to figure out the noise.
As far as whomever took over the post with the 33" spare with 37's on the Jeep I'd just have to assume you didn't have enough money to buy the needed tires when you upgraded and you should have waited as its stupid, dangerous, and looks idiotic at best.
If your going to do something - do it right or not at all
Agree to disagree. Folks post all the time about heavier wheels and tires ruining their performance. Acceleration, braking, it all goes down the toilet. If you think it doesn't affect your load capacity, you're only fooling yourself.
Putting a 33 on one side of an axle and a 37 on the other is downright stupid. Just delete the spare at that point if one more tire breaks the bank.
Acceleration and load carrying are 2 entirely different things. Springs, weight on the frame, load on the axles determine ultimate load carrying, but obviously moving more weight affects performance. Just because your brakes and engine can move and stop a 3500lb trailer, doesn't mean said trailer doesn't negatively affect every aspect of performance.
No temp spare I've ever owned was the same diameter as the full sized tire, not even in the xj, which happened to be a 4wd? Again, put it on the front passenger and it affects nothing in 2wd thanks to the FAD. My ram rebel even came with a smaller spare under the bed, it is literally more common across all vehicles now than running a matching spare. For some reason the Wrangler community thinks our vehicles are some kind of unicorn with uniquely sensitive spider gears, they aren't at all.
The weight savings of running a 33 spare vs a 37 spare is not that much. Whenever I see someone running a smaller spare on the tailgate, I figure they are just waiting to have enough money to buy a full size spare. When we built my daughters XJ, we found a used tire and wheel off of craigslist and she used that for a spare for about a year until she wanted to spend money on that vs other upgrades. I have always run a full size spare even with beadlocks. Just easier to have one ready if you bust through a sidewall and have a decent drive home. Especially if you popped a rear and had a smaller size tire, now you have to swap front to back as well. To each their own though...
Case in point --
I'm not running an undersized spare, simply correcting false information with logic, reason, and facts. Most 37's won't fit on the stock tailgate, which is clearly lighter than any reinforcement further adding to that weight difference. The OP posted he was running a stock spare for weight savings. Some jumped on it being unsafe and somehow damaging the vehicle. I pointed out their incorrect narrative. People keep replying to me with the false idea that you can't safely run a different sized tire even on a driven axle. 100% false no matter how many repeat it. The vast majority of vehicles now run an undersized spare. Even worse it is a garbage quality temp tire which is why the distance and speed limit warnings. Some misinterpret that as requiring the same limits running the factory spare but they are also wrong. If you think there isn't much weight difference between a stock tailgate and spare and an aftermarket tire carrier and beadlocked 37, you too are wrong. There's a million threads on front end sag from a winch plate and winch adding 80ish pounds and the beadlocked 37 plus carrier could easily weigh 100 pounds more than the stock setup.
Case in point 37" mud grappler weighs 97lbs, raceline beadlock weighs 42lbs, and even the aluminum teraflex spare tire carrier weighs 62lbs (the cavfab version has got to be over 100lbs) for a total of 200lbs. Stock Rubicon wheel and tire weigh 71lbs. That's a delta of 129lbs, or more than most winches and winch plates.Case in point --
9.5 pound increase from 33's to 35's (including spacers)
6.9 pound increase from 33's to 37's
I never said you were running an undersized spare, just commented on the weight not being that much of a savings. In fact, it is minimal in the grand scheme of things on a Jeep that weighs 5,000 pounds. I also did not say that running two different tires up front was unsafe, just not something I would do. The OEM rear tire carrier was never designed to carry a beadlocked 37, no argument there. If that is your argument for the fact that it is heavier, I don't get it never said a beadlock 37 is not heavier. This is weight that is leveraged out further and bounces up and down eventually wearing out the tailgate. You should absolutely upgrade the OEM tire mount if you move up in size. I went with the ACE tire mount that comes with new hinges it is beefy and makes zero noise.
