FAD on separate switch

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

Hello,
I'm not too electrical, but crafty.
I am sick of all the nannys not letting me disconnect or engage things with my 4 wheel drive. I got the dreaded "serv 4wd" light and used the Tazer mini to turn off the FAD, and both lockers.

Not too concerned with wiring up the rear locker. The new rear axle came with a wire harness and switch.

I am asking for help in controlling the FAD and front locker on my own toggle switches.
Could it be as simple as finding the hot and ground wires and adding a switch? That would be ideal. I can figure that out.

I dont care to diagnose why the idiot light is on. I just want to bypass the nanny sensor telling the computer not to engage.

Please share your knowledge.

I would appreciate it. Thank you.

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[CaJLMetalHead]

This is what I found... here is how the FAD connects to the Drive Train Control ( DTC ) Module

Pin 1 is Battery Positive (Ignition)
Pin 2 Controls Activation of the FAD.. short pin to Ground to engage the FAD
Pin 3 is a return signal back to the DTC Module of a sensor of the position of the FAD actuator
Pin 4 is Ground

Pin3 will send a voltage greater than 7.22 Volts back to the DTC Module to indicate
that the FAD was sucessfully engaged.. if this is not true.. then the FAD module is bad

So basically if you want to control the FAD manually...
Connect Pin 1 to Battery Positive (controlled by the ignition so you dont power FAD constantly)
Connect Pin 4 to Ground

Engage FAD with a switch connected to ground on one side.. and to Pin 2 on the other side

I hope this helps..

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

This is what I found... here is how the FAD connects to the Drive Train Control ( DTC ) Module

Pin 1 is Battery Positive (Ignition)
Pin 2 Controls Activation of the FAD.. short pin to Ground to engage the FAD
Pin 3 is a return signal back to the DTC Module of a sensor of the position of the FAD actuator
Pin 4 is Ground

Pin3 will send a voltage greater than 7.22 Volts back to the DTC Module to indicate
that the FAD was sucessfully engaged.. if this is not true.. then the FAD module is bad

So basically if you want to control the FAD manually...
Connect Pin 1 to Battery Positive (controlled by the ignition so you dont power FAD constantly)
Connect Pin 4 to Ground

Engage FAD with a switch connected to ground on one side.. and to Pin 2 on the other side

I hope this helps..

Thank You. ?

I will try it. If the FAD is the issue, Plan B is the FAD delete sleeve.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

Thank You. ?

I will try it. If the FAD is the issue, Plan B is the FAD delete sleeve.

Whatever you do.. make sure that you are not connecting anything back to the DTC Module... as you could fry it.. and that would be a sad day for Humanity... LOL

The best idea would be to get a connector and make a separate connection so you can mess with the FAD directly.. if you fry it... then not the end of the World... but frying the DTC Module ...

 

[Dyolfknip74]

Hello,
I'm not too electrical, but crafty.
I am sick of all the nannys not letting me disconnect or engage things with my 4 wheel drive. I got the dreaded "serv 4wd" light and used the Tazer mini to turn off the FAD, and both lockers.

Not too concerned with wiring up the rear locker. The new rear axle came with a wire harness and switch.

I am asking for help in controlling the FAD and front locker on my own toggle switches.
Could it be as simple as finding the hot and ground wires and adding a switch? That would be ideal. I can figure that out.

I dont care to diagnose why the idiot light is on. I just want to bypass the nanny sensor telling the computer not to engage.

Please share your knowledge.

I would appreciate it. Thank you.

There's more information here.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/how-to-manually-control-the-fad.42710/

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

There's more information here.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/how-to-manually-control-the-fad.42710/

Thanks Bro!
I ordered the connector pigtail. LOL

 

[word302]

Did you pot your locker sensors? That’s the likely culprit.

 

[Some Random Guy]

I don't remember, what axles are you running now?
I'm sure I'm misunderstanding, but it sounds like you still have a FAD but disabled it with the Tazer? That sounds like it is problematic. I thought that tazer feature was meant for FAD deletes or non-FAD axles to account for the now empty plug without an error light. If the computer is told there's no FAD, but is still getting sensor inputs, I don't know if it handles that well.

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

I don't remember, what axles are you running now?
I'm sure I'm misunderstanding, but it sounds like you still have a FAD but disabled it with the Tazer? That sounds like it is problematic. I thought that tazer feature was meant for FAD deletes or non-FAD axles to account for the now empty plug without an error light. If the computer is told there's no FAD, but is still getting sensor inputs, I don't know if it handles that well.

I have a Fusion semi-float 40 spline rear 60 and the OEM front D44. Last month, the "serv 4wd" came on and the code indicated a FAD error. I cleared the code and it came back immediately. I used the Tazer Mini to delete the FAD when I deleted the lockers. I'm currently working on rocker switches for all three. I bought the Dana Spicer FAD delete sleeve just in case it was the actual FAD motor that was bad. Not looking to make my Jeep a total trailer queen just yet with a live front axle. LOL

 

[Some Random Guy]

I have a Fusion semi-float 40 spline rear 60 and the OEM front D44. Last month, the "serv 4wd" came on and the code indicated a FAD error. I cleared the code and it came back immediately. I used the Tazer Mini to delete the FAD when I deleted the lockers. I'm currently working on rocker switches for all three. I bought the Dana Spicer FAD delete sleeve just in case it was the actual FAD motor that was bad. Not looking to make my Jeep a total trailer queen just yet with a live front axle. LOL

Ok, this is pretty niche and any feedback I have is probably stuff you'd already done. Like reconnect and re-enable the FAD.
FWIW, I have a UD44 front and not having the FAD isn't causing me issues (yet). Once I go aftermarket driveshafts it might. It DOES drop my MPG. My JLUR (hardtop) on 5.13's with the same wheel/tire combo was getting about 16.5 MPG combined. I'm currently getting about 15 MPG combined with my 2 door Sport with 4.88's (soft top). Honestly my rear driveshaft is the only real concern I have right now because of my 2-door short bus status. I'm just trying to hold out for the rear semi-float and Atlas transfer case swaps so I get a "perfect" length measurement.

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

I ended up pulling the FAD motor and installing the DS FAD delete sleeve.

There was significant front driveshaft vibration, so I removed some caster by lengthening the upper front control arms. It seems better, but I may still need to shorten the lowers a bit too. She is quickly becoming a trailer queen. LOL

 

[word302]

I ended up pulling the FAD motor and installing the DS FAD delete sleeve.

There was significant front driveshaft vibration, so I removed some caster by lengthening the upper front control arms. It seems better, but I may still need to shorten the lowers a bit too. She is quickly becoming a trailer queen. LOL

Ugh, they really blew it with the geometry on these axles.

 

[AnnDee4444]

I'm pretty sure Jscan allows engage/disengaging the FAD anytime through the app.

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