DIY Ball Joint install advice

[Odyssey USA]

I’ve only needed to do this once before and it’s not the same. (Cut rivets, bolt in new ball joints on an old IFS.)

I have a new removal/install tool from a parts house so I hope I’m good to go there. Anything else you weren’t aware you needed or would be handy for the job? Specifically, I’ll be installing the Baller Joints. Saw the install video but it’s always great to get more points of view.

I hope to have everything on hand.

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[gek]

Make sure your removal tool has an angled cup because they are not in there square with the top of the knuckle

 

[sherpaJL]

Make sure your removal tool has an angled cup because they are not in there square with the top of the knuckle

yup. this kit on Amazon has that angled installer

https://www.amazon.com/Sunluway-Compatible-Service-Adapter-4-Wheel/dp/B07FVS1RHJ

 

[Anonymous]

Freezer!

 

[Roky]

I’ve only needed to do this once before and it’s not the same. (Cut rivets, bolt in new back joints on an old IFS.)

I have a new removal/install tool from a parts house so I hope I’m good to go there. Anything else you weren’t aware you needed or would be handy for the job? Specifically, I’ll be installing the Baller Joints. Saw the install video but it’s always great to get more points of view.

I hope to have everything on hand.

The instructions are pretty good, my only suggestion is be careful with the big red anodized aluminum nut…DON’T go at it with a pipe wrench….. I use a big crescent and I put some fuzzy side Velcro on the wrench… I get Velcro with the sticky back and cut it to fit…. I think the instructions calls for electrical tape but I’m Mr overkill when working on other people’s rigs…..

 

[Nvdardx28]

At least a 3lb hammer to help bang the old knuckles off. Also, I didn't use the angled cup to press the new ball joints in and I had no issues.

As for the baller joints, the instructions in my opinion are not great. There is a tensioning step at the end, and there is where I had trouble. Make sure to tension the ball joints before attaching the tie rods to the knuckles. To get the tension dialed in you want to swing the knuckle left to right freely to make sure there is no tight resistance, otherwise you will get a sticky feeling from the steering wheel.

 

[Remorseless]

If your Jeep has the FAD, put it in 4H when you pull the axle shafts. Lets you just pull the short shaft on the passenger side without worrying about the coupler dropping into the FAD housing.

 

[melendez69]

Secure the steering wheel with a ratchet strap.... and an emotional support pet in case you have difficulty removing the stock ball joints.

 

[Odyssey USA]

You guys are awesome! That’s exactly the feedback I was looking for!

 

[Odyssey USA]

At least a 3lb hammer to help bang the old knuckles off. Also, I didn't use the angled cup to press the new ball joints in and I had no issues.

As for the baller joints, the instructions in my opinion are not great. There is a tensioning step at the end, and there is where I had trouble. Make sure to tension the ball joints before attaching the tie rods to the knuckles. To get the tension dialed in you want to swing the knuckle left to right freely to make sure there is no tight resistance, otherwise you will get a sticky feeling from the steering wheel.

I need to look at that loaner kit (new in wrapper still) and I’ve managed for years but need to finally get myself a big hammer like that. I had to borrow a 3lb hammer from work for the cars hub swap. Galvanic corrosion PITA

 

[AnnDee4444]

Get a dead-blow hammer to prevent denting the aluminum knuckles https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CWCK4TLG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?th=1


Make sure you lube the mating surface between the Cee and the new ball joints. I used a stubby 1/2" M12 impact driver to help press in the ball joints... much easier than doing it by hand.

 

[Odyssey USA]

Get a dead-blow hammer to prevent denting the aluminum knuckles https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CWCK4TLG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?th=1


Make sure you lube the mating surface between the Cee and the new ball joints. I used a stubby 1/2" M12 impact driver to help press in the ball joints... much easier than doing it by hand.

Without experience, I’d of wondered whether the dead blow would shock things enough to break it free. I have one like pictured but maybe I’d need the 3 lb’er.

I wish I could swing the stubby impact. I’m sure my big cordless impact is too large so I’ll likely end up doing it the old fashioned way. I wouldn’t use the impact until I knew it was going in straight but it would be great after that.

Thanks for the help. Maybe I can get that as an early Christmas present. lol

 

[dlong1119]

I just learned the importance of the press tool's threads being in good shape... had borrowed a loaner from Autozone and noticed it had seen a lot of use and the threads didn't look great but I could thread it by hand all the way through so I lubed it up and didn't think too much of it.

My Dewalt 1/2" impact with the 60V Flex battery wasn't even beginning to budge them. I grabbed my 18" breaker bar and couldn't move them. Added a 24" cheater pipe to it and proceeded to snap the head off my breaker bar.... Got that swapped out, grabbed a 24" breaker in addition to it and then attempted to swap the press set but it was the only one they had so I wound up ordering the Astro 7897 from Amazon. Got it set up and the ball joints slipped right out using my impact. New Dana HDs pressed right in using just the 18" breaker bar (I wanted to go slow and have a good feel for it in case they got bound up).

Side note, the angled cup is only needed for the bottoms, the top lines up fine with a straight cup.

 

[Odyssey USA]

I just learned the importance of the press tool's threads being in good shape... had borrowed a loaner from Autozone and noticed it had seen a lot of use and the threads didn't look great but I could thread it by hand all the way through so I lubed it up and didn't think too much of it.

My Dewalt 1/2" impact with the 60V Flex battery wasn't even beginning to budge them. I grabbed my 18" breaker bar and couldn't move them. Added a 24" cheater pipe to it and proceeded to snap the head off my breaker bar.... Got that swapped out, grabbed a 24" breaker in addition to it and then attempted to swap the press set but it was the only one they had so I wound up ordering the Astro 7897 from Amazon. Got it set up and the ball joints slipped right out using my impact. New Dana HDs pressed right in using just the 18" breaker bar (I wanted to go slow and have a good feel for it in case they got bound up).

Side note, the angled cup is only needed for the bottoms, the top lines up fine with a straight cup.

I’m not sure if the new Autozone kit has the angled cup or not. Did yours? Mine is still wrapped in plastic.

 

[AnnDee4444]

FWIW: I did mine with no angled cup... just need to be careful making sure everything gets started straight. It would definitely help, but not necessary.

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