Dynatrac Ball Joint Issue - Need advice.

[melendez69]

Well the damn thing finally dropped after i posted this…. I practically emptied a can of b’laster to it…. Please continue with your afternoon……nothing to see here!

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[caratnic]

So was the astro tool from Amazon the correct one with the correct angle adapter?

 

[mysto]

I just went through this and have some notes, I referred to this thread a lot so am posting here.

Both rotors were stuck hard, tried penetrating oil and heat. Had to resort to this:


Both hubs were stuck hard to the knuckle, because I had already removed the tie rod and drag link I didn't use the power steering to free it. So consider freeing the hub before uninstalling those. I reinstalled the 3 12-point bolts and hit them with a socket over the bolt heads. Had to hit it really hard for quite a while in addition to heat and oil.

Both knuckles were stuck hard (ha, sense a trend?). My pickle fork was too small but I had to use it ( 1-3/16 opening 3/4 lift ) and trash the old boots. Also had to use heat, oil, and a big hammer.

I had very little trouble with the joints. One of the OEMs had bound to the axle c on one side, it actually bent before letting go. I can see how if it were bound all the way around it would be really tough. My notes on my press setup are in the next post.

 

[mysto]

So was the astro tool from Amazon the correct one with the correct angle adapter?

I successfully used this on a 2020 JL:

Astro Pneumatic Tool Company www.astrotools.com
model 7897 ball joint service tool and master adapter set

removing:
Top: Used the press screw with no adapers.
Bottom: 7897-08 and 7897-14
installing:
Top: press screw and 7897-09 combined with:
Lower arm: 7897-11 -- mark the thickest spot on the taper and orient it outboard
upper arm: 7897-10
Bottom: 7897-08 and 7897-02 (or the dynatrac install ring which gives more clearance)

7897-08 -- this is the saucer adapter with a larger hole
7897-09 -- saucer adapter with smaller hole
7897-14 -- 2-7/16 ID ring
7897-11 -- this is the adapter with the taper
7897-10 -- similar to the tapered adapter but straight
7897-02 -- 1-3/4 ID ring

 

[roaniecowpony]

I just went through this and have some notes, I referred to this thread a lot so am posting here.

Both rotors were stuck hard, tried penetrating oil and heat. Had to resort to this:


Both hubs were stuck hard to the knuckle, because I had already removed the tie rod and drag link I didn't use the power steering to free it. So consider freeing the hub before uninstalling those. I reinstalled the 3 12-point bolts and hit them with a socket over the bolt heads. Had to hit it really hard for quite a while in addition to heat and oil.

Both knuckles were stuck hard (ha, sense a trend?). My pickle fork was too small but I had to use it ( 1-3/16 opening 3/4 lift ) and trash the old boots. Also had to use heat, oil, and a big hammer.

I had very little trouble with the joints. One of the OEMs had bound to the axle c on one side, it actually bent before letting go. I can see how if it were bound all the way around it would be really tough. My notes on my press setup are in the next post.

Yeah, beating on it with a hammer will mark the tapered roller or ball bearings in the hub and shorten it's life. That's a much nicer way to remove a rusty rotor.

Putting a protective shim against the rotor where that bolt contacts would be nice.

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