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Dynatrac Ball Joint Issue - Need advice.

roaniecowpony

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Yeah, I’m aware, but my RCVs has a brass bushing, so I’m thinking oil is getting over there somehow, obviously not as much as in 4wd. I’ve never looked into it to be honest with ya………
I have an RCV inner shaft, with an Oilite bushing I made (oil impregnated porous bronze). My outer shafts are the Dana 4340 chromoly shafts with the huge yokes for the larger 4xx U-joints. I machined my Dana shaft pilot stub down to allow a bushing. I greased the heck out of all of the FAD when I assembled it.

I need to pull it apart soon to replace the locker actuator. So, I'll check it out to see how it's doing. It has about a dozen trips on it, maybe 6k miles.
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Roky

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I have an RCV inner shaft, with an Oilite bushing I made (oil impregnated porous bronze). My outer shafts are the Dana 4340 chromoly shafts with the huge yokes for the larger 4xx U-joints. I machined my Dana shaft pilot stub down to allow a bushing. I greased the heck out of all of the FAD when I assembled it.

I need to pull it apart soon to replace the locker actuator. So, I'll check it out to see how it's doing. It has about a dozen trips on it, maybe 6k miles.
That’s some cool shit right there…..keep me in the loop on what you find in there….
 

roaniecowpony

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If I keep this jeep, I may just dump the 44s and put in 60s with hubs.
 

roaniecowpony

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That’s some cool shit right there…..keep me in the loop on what you find in there….
These are the project axles CarbonSteel and I collaborated on. We brainstormed the use of Dana axles intended to be locked together at the FAD, but we ended up just machining a little and using the RCV inner for a full set of 4340 shafts, with fully functional FAD.
 

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These are the project axles CarbonSteel and I collaborated on. We brainstormed the use of Dana axles intended to be locked together at the FAD, but we ended up just machining a little and using the RCV inner for a full set of 4340 shafts, with fully functional FAD.
I remember reading about some of that somewhere, the grease slinging damn near drove him mad….?
 

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melendez69

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I'm considering tackling this...so, for passenger-side...is it better (or advisable) to put in 4H to pull out the axle shaft, or is 4H an alternative to avoid tinkering with the FAD & removing the cover?
 

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I'm considering tackling this...so, for passenger-side...is it better (or advisable) to put in 4H to pull out the axle shaft, or is 4H an alternative to avoid tinkering with the FAD & removing the cover?
4H just locks the FAD collar onto the inner shaft, you don't have to do it, just a trick to avoid dropping the FAD collar inside the axle tube.
 

melendez69

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4H just locks the FAD collar onto the inner shaft, you don't have to do it, just a trick to avoid dropping the FAD collar inside the axle tube.
Much obliged...
 

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@melendez69, I would encourage you to open up the FAD so you can inspect the components in there, especially the plastic bushing. I’ve read reports of those disintegrating. You’re getting into a fairly advanced job. It would suck to find out after the fact that there is something wrong in there.
 
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JustSendItDude

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Much obliged...
I put mine in4H prior to tackling this job, and the collar didn’t fully seat onto the inner shaft, so it fell off inside. So, I had to remove the FAD cover and slide the collar back onto the inner shaft. This allows you to put the passenger side outer shaft back in without issues.
 

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melendez69

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@melendez69, I would encourage you to open up the FAD so you can inspect the components in there, especially the plastic bushing. I’ve read reports of those disintegrating. You’re getting into a fairly advanced job. It would suck to find out after the fact that there is something wrong in there.
And here I thought the dual battery swap was fairly advanced….. My goal is to open the FAD…. I hadn’t realized there was an alternative until recently. I’m still a little bit aways from getting started since I just ordered the Dynatracs & I’d like to read up on as much as possible before diving in. I’ve only seen one video doing the passenger side, but none mentioning putting in 4H.
 

melendez69

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I put mine in4H prior to tackling this job, and the collar didn’t fully seat onto the inner shaft, so it fell off inside. So, I had to remove the FAD cover and slide the collar back onto the inner shaft. This allows you to put the passenger side outer shaft back in without issues.
You’re steadily becoming my inspiration…… ?
 
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JustSendItDude

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You’re steadily becoming my inspiration…… ?
You got it! Regarding the FAD and assembly, this was a good video to reference. Other good tips for the knuckle too.



To take the FAD cover off, there is a skid plate cover to remove. I believe they are 10mm bolts and three of them. Then the FAD cover itself is 4 bolts that are 13mm. Make sure to have a ton of rags below. A bunch of oil came out (more than I was expecting). But after watching the above video and help from the folks here, it was pretty easy to get the passenger side all back together.
 

BadA$$Rubi

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No video, but here are some pics of the finished product. As mentioned before, check the condition of your plastic bushing in between the shafts of the FAD. I upgraded the knuckles, ball joints, axle shafts, hub bearings and bushing for this mod.
Jeep Wrangler JL Dynatrac Ball Joint Issue - Need advice. IMG_1564
Jeep Wrangler JL Dynatrac Ball Joint Issue - Need advice. IMG_1575
Jeep Wrangler JL Dynatrac Ball Joint Issue - Need advice. IMG_1574
Jeep Wrangler JL Dynatrac Ball Joint Issue - Need advice. IMG_1573
Jeep Wrangler JL Dynatrac Ball Joint Issue - Need advice. IMG_1572
 

melendez69

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This slip joint looks a little gouged into the knuckle…. I’ve been trying to bang this f*cker out for an hour & the damn knuckle won’t drop. I’m on factory ball joints…. Have they been in too long or is the slip joint not being flush preventing it from falling?

Jeep Wrangler JL Dynatrac Ball Joint Issue - Need advice. IMG_8835
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