37s & Regrets?

[CarbonSteel]

I’ve never heard of these terms and will have to investigate. They’re Icon Rebound rims, that’s all I know. I think they’re possibly too narrow as they are on the low end of the acceptable rim width for these tires.

From what I see on the Icon website, there is only 1 wheel with a 5x5 bolt pattern. It is 8.5" wide (which should be fine for the tires) and they are hub centric as they have a 71.5MM bore. I ran Icon Alphas with the same specs with BFG KO2 in 37x12.5x17 with zero issues.

The difference is that some aftermarket wheels have a large bore that leaves a gap between the hub raised inner section and thus they rely on the lugs to center the wheel and thus are lug centric.

https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/wheel/10645/icon-alloys-rebound/1817857345SB/?finishID=1902

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[roaniecowpony]

No steering box TSB for the ‘22 model.

Tie Rod and drag link will be replaced soon with Steer Smarts stuff. Track bar came with the Clayton kit. Planning on adjustable ball joints because camber is different in both and slightly high on one side.

If the difference is significant, check it for a bent housing.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I’ve never heard of these terms and will have to investigate. They’re Icon Rebound rims, that’s all I know. I think they’re possibly too narrow as they are on the low end of the acceptable rim width for these tires.

I have Rebound wheels. No wheel problems with them. They are fine for a 12.5x37. You don't want a 10" wide wheel for off-roading on a 12.5 tire. Being on the low side of the recommended wheel width is desireable.

 

[zouch]

you're right; i also didn't mention any of the steering components or axle upgrades i did just because i knew what i was going to be doing with it.
in my idea of doing it 'Right', it really isn't cheap. but i don't want to be worrying about parts when going to those places we like to go.

All of those things for sure. I figured that going to 37s on my cost me the following.

$4500 for my wheels and tires
$800 for the Rancho lift
$1600 for the upgraded steering components
$900 for my spare tire carrier
$660 for the Dynatrac ball joints.
$2200 for gears and install. Note I did all the other installs. Also Note, I work cheap for myself. I charge my self a decent steak and a good shot of bourbon at the end of the day.

Some might say that is a bunch of money, yet the memories and view are priceless.

[snip]

One does not create memories like this sitting on the couch watching Family Feud. Lift the Jeep buy the tires spend the money and go wheeling. There is so much to see in the is country.

 

[zouch]

i hate that i'm going to contribute to this thread becoming another DW thread, but gotta' say it's hard to really "check" ball joints and be 100% they're 100% if they're still installed. they can get pretty bad before you're able to really find it by an on-vehicle "check".
process of elimination would indicate that replacing them with good ones should be high on your list of things to do next.

alignment isn't likely to make much of a difference; most shops don't do anything but set the Toe-In and center your steering wheel and tell you nothing else is adjustable.
Camber is adjustable via sleeves (which it sounds like you might already know), and Caster is adjustable via adjustable Control Arms. i don't recall if your 'lift' included adjustable front control arms, but if it did, i'd recommend you have them adjusted out to where the alignment reports say you're showing more than 6º of negative Caster.

FWIW, i initially diddled around with replacing the Camber Sleeves to get things even on mine and can't honestly say i remember ever noticing a difference.
putting upgraded UCAs (to match the longer Lower ones i already had) made far more of a difference; i was rather pleasantly surprised at how much difference heavier-duty UCAs made in controlling those larger/heavier tires and keeping them where they were supposed to be as the suspension cycled.

Track Bar, Tie Rod, Drag Link, Control Arms, and Ball Joints are all suspect when you get DW. some folks would even consider a front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace to help keep that increased rotating mass under control, but i wouldn't put it above the Ball Joints and other steering components you're already looking at.

(i'm going to assume you've already tried rotating the tires around to different positions on the vehicle to see if the problem follows any of them.)

Already done, several times.

I loosened and retorqued all the suspension bolts. I’ve had 4 shops look at the Jeep, all stating “everything looks good” with one shop adding “your Jeep drives better than mine.”

All shops checked the ball joints and said they’re fine.

Front axle is dead on. Rear axle appears to be dead on and I’ve had shops do alignments and verify (4 alignments have been done now and they ain’t cheap)

 

[KarnaughMI]

Late to the party...

I have been running the AEV 2.5" lift on my 2019 JLUR with 4.10s and have 86K on it. It was my daily for most of that. I'm running Mickey Thompson Baja Boss and just put on my 2nd set of tires. My front shocks are starting to leak a little bit.

I have swapped most of my front suspension (balljoints haven't gone yet) with Steersmarts track bar and drag link. I did the RPM Steering tie rods and Fox stabilizer. I am running AEV Pintlers and I air them down to 10psi without busting beads.

I haven't hit as many trails as Wibornz, but I do prefer rocks (Rausch Creek, AOAA, etc). Fully armored underneath with diff skids/sliders.

-Tom

 

[COJeeper]

i hate that i'm going to contribute to this thread becoming another DW thread, but gotta' say it's hard to really "check" ball joints and be 100% they're 100% if they're still installed. they can get pretty bad before you're able to really find it by an on-vehicle "check".
process of elimination would indicate that replacing them with good ones should be high on your list of things to do next.

alignment isn't likely to make much of a difference; most shops don't do anything but set the Toe-In and center your steering wheel and tell you nothing else is adjustable.
Camber is adjustable via sleeves (which it sounds like you might already know), and Caster is adjustable via adjustable Control Arms. i don't recall if your 'lift' included adjustable front control arms, but if it did, i'd recommend you have them adjusted out to where the alignment reports say you're showing more than 6º of negative Caster.

FWIW, i initially diddled around with replacing the Camber Sleeves to get things even on mine and can't honestly say i remember ever noticing a difference.
putting upgraded UCAs (to match the longer Lower ones i already had) made far more of a difference; i was rather pleasantly surprised at how much difference heavier-duty UCAs made in controlling those larger/heavier tires and keeping them where they were supposed to be as the suspension cycled.

Track Bar, Tie Rod, Drag Link, Control Arms, and Ball Joints are all suspect when you get DW. some folks would even consider a front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace to help keep that increased rotating mass under control, but i wouldn't put it above the Ball Joints and other steering components you're already looking at.

(i'm going to assume you've already tried rotating the tires around to different positions on the vehicle to see if the problem follows any of them.)

Tires have been rotated, same behavior.

I have 6.5 degrees of caster and all 8 are heavy duty adjustable control arms.

I just had Discount Tire balance my wheels and they said one was off by 3oz. However, after their balance, it drives worse now. hahah

I just can't win.

 

[wibornz]

Late to the party...

I have been running the AEV 2.5" lift on my 2019 JLUR with 4.10s and have 86K on it. It was my daily for most of that. I'm running Mickey Thompson Baja Boss and just put on my 2nd set of tires. My front shocks are starting to leak a little bit.

I have swapped most of my front suspension (balljoints haven't gone yet) with Steersmarts track bar and drag link. I did the RPM Steering tie rods and Fox stabilizer. I am running AEV Pintlers and I air them down to 10psi without busting beads.

I haven't hit as many trails as Wibornz, but I do prefer rocks (Rausch Creek, AOAA, etc). Fully armored underneath with diff skids/sliders.

-Tom

I need to get to AOAA. Just could not make it happen this year.

 

[BijanF]

AEV JL370
You can’t beat AEV quality, and the kit along with their +25mm offset wheel fits 37’s perfectly.

 

[zouch]

ouch.

well, that makes your list a few items shorter, at least.

i'd be looking at Ball Joints and the Steering parts you mentioned soon.

Tires have been rotated, same behavior.

I have 6.5 degrees of caster and all 8 are heavy duty adjustable control arms.

I just had Discount Tire balance my wheels and they said one was off by 3oz. However, after their balance, it drives worse now. hahah

I just can't win.

 

[Mudduck]

Already done, twice, same behavior.

One thing that a lot of people don’t consider is “Wheel runout” Sometimes it’s not the tires. Sometimes the wheels have a side to side movement or wobble.

 

[XtremeRetard]

37s and a small lift is an excellent value sweet spot which will take you up 8 rated trails easily.
In fact I did Pritchet with mine too. After that it costs mega $$ and you dont gain that much.

I pretty much did all the Sand Hollow 8 rated trails with mine on 37 BFGs. The Maze, Unforgiven, Front Range, 777, Fawlty Towers, etc.

BUT anything less than 5.13 gears in the v6 is crappy IMO.

 

[Buttnakedjeepin]

I run balancing beads in my tires. So I don't have those issues.

What brand of beads are you running?

 

[wranglerbro]

Do you have a build thread?

Nah, but only because it would have been extremely boring for everyone at the slow pace I’ve been upgrading the Jeep. In the past, I would grab everything at once and install.

My strategy with the 4xe has been to research the heck out an item I’m interested in, determine if it’s even needed, order/install, then evaluate its performance for a while before dropping coin on the next thing. When it becomes apparent there are areas needing improvement, I’ve had a much easier time identifying them.

For instance, I’ve been running the stock tie rod and drag link for 19,000 miles, 6,000+ on 37s. IMO, the heavy tires have accelerated the wear of the ball joints based on the slop they had. So…Black Friday came around and I grabbed an upgrade I had been eyeing all year.

Rusty’s Aluminum HD Steering Kit. Love their stuff!

 

[RudeJeepin]

I will call them today. I buy all my tires there, I don’t know if they come with lifetime balancing, I didn’t buy the warranty.

Aren't you running Falkens? If so, I'm pretty sure they have a warranty regardless if you pay extra from the installer.

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