Metalcloak lock-n-load vs Game changer

[Roky]

MC shocks are tuned to the dual rate springs, not the individual spring rates. (And by tuned, it just means they’re long enough to maximize the use of the coils) They can get away using the same shocks for 2.5 and 3.5 “ lifts because there’s only a quarter inch difference in the free length of both lift height front coils, and only a half inch difference in the rears. The 4.5” springs are the only ones that are an inch and a half longer….

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[GATORB8]

I bet the ride rates are pretty similar. IIRC, spring rate is calced with three things, diameter, number of coils, and wire thickness. Once the droop rate spring binds, you are just riding on the resulting rate from the lower section.

 

[Zandcwhite]

I bet the ride rates are pretty similar. IIRC, spring rate is calced with three things, diameter, number of coils, and wire thickness. Once the droop rate spring binds, you are just riding on the resulting rate from the lower section.

And the lower sections are 3 different diameters, I haven't measured each coil, but I'd bet the coils per length are nearly identical. The rates have got to be different. The droop coil looks identical between all 3 and as you said is a non-factor in the rate at ride height. The fronts have a significantly lower rate across every manufacturer that posts their rates, I can't imagine metalcloak is any different? In my experience the rocksports are way too soft, great for a budget rock crawling shock but not so much anywhere else. No experience with the 6paks, but for that price I'd go fox2.5 dscs from accutune regardless. I'm much happier with my bilstein 5100s and metalcloak springs than I was with the rocksports for the same budget.

 

[Headbarcode]

Are you happy with the shocks? Are they with the money compared to other shocks? How are they on everything outside rock crawling? (washboard roads, whoops, street, etc)

I only have prior personal experience with the factory JLUR shocks and the custom tuned Fox 2.0 shocks used in the Dynatrac Endurosport lift, which are both pretty basic entry level shocks. They were both pretty soft, so they soaked up single bumps and ruts comfortably when at speed. In the washboards and hitting multiple consecutive bumps/ruts, the softness equated to the tires wanting to skip over the irregularities.

The 6-packs are just firm enough to keep the tires planted through the washboards, without being to stiff for everyday comfort. The extra firmness not only keeps the tires on the ground and following the irregularities, which gives more directional control, but also helps carry weight better. The previous shocks would sag on the way home from a simple grocery run.

All in all, I've been very pleased with Metalcloaks Gamechanger with the 6-packs. To me and on my build and my particular uses, they are well worth the money.

 

[Headbarcode]

The 3.5" rear springs use a 19/32" wire, the 4.5" use a 5/8" wire, and the 2.5" use a 9/16" wire. There's no way those 3 coils have the same spring rates and yet they sell you the same 6 paks for all 3. The rocksports aren't even front and rear specific. I know they don't like to publish spring rates, but like I said there's no way the same shocks are "tuned" to 3 different rates in the case of the 6paks or 5 different rates with the rocksports. In reality shocks should be tuned to vehicle weight and unsprung weight more than spring rate (unless you're running bypass shocks and multi-rate coils) which is why you can run the same shocks with any of their springs or anyone elses for that matter. Accutune doesn't ask for your spring rates when you ordered custom tuned shocks, they ask for corner weights.

I'm very far from being a suspension tuning expert. That's why I tend to always refer people to Accutune.

My only goal in these types of threads, is to offer my own personal experience with the Metalcloak Gamechanger with 6-packs.

It's interesting to learn the wire diameters between the different lift height springs. I've been curious since my swap, but have yet to put the dial calipers to them. Thanks for sharing those numbers. Truthfully, the only difference I've felt, as far as added stiffness, is when I went from C-rated 38x13.5 Milestar Patagonias to D-rated 40x13.5 Pat's.

 

[Zandcwhite]

I'm very far from being a suspension tuning expert. That's why I tend to always refer people to Accutune.

My only goal in these types of threads, is to offer my own personal experience with the Metalcloak Gamechanger with 6-packs.

It's interesting to learn the wire diameters between the different lift height springs. I've been curious since my swap, but have yet to put the dial calipers to them. Thanks for sharing those numbers. Truthfully, the only difference I've felt, as far as added stiffness, is when I went from C-rated 38x13.5 Milestar Patagonias to D-rated 40x13.5 Pat's.

Are your pats the original mt01s or the new mt02s? Wife was happy with the 38" mt01s on the last jeep, I'm trying to find someone whose run both to see if there's a noticeable difference. The difference in wire diameter is pretty minimal, so the spring rates wouldn't be far off. I still don't know why everyone doesn't post their rates. If they are worried about other companies copying them, spring testers are cheap especially if you're getting into the manufacturing business. It's not some top secret proprietary information.

 

[fasteddie760]

I only have prior personal experience with the factory JLUR shocks and the custom tuned Fox 2.0 shocks used in the Dynatrac Endurosport lift, which are both pretty basic entry level shocks. They were both pretty soft, so they soaked up single bumps and ruts comfortably when at speed. In the washboards and hitting multiple consecutive bumps/ruts, the softness equated to the tires wanting to skip over the irregularities.

The 6-packs are just firm enough to keep the tires planted through the washboards, without being to stiff for everyday comfort. The extra firmness not only keeps the tires on the ground and following the irregularities, which gives more directional control, but also helps carry weight better. The previous shocks would sag on the way home from a simple grocery run.

All in all, I've been very pleased with Metalcloaks Gamechanger with the 6-packs. To me and on my build and my particular uses, they are well worth the money.

From trying to research these 6pak shocks it seems the benefit is on the up travel. Do you feel you utilize the benefits of the up travel? Or are you bump stopping because of other issues and have more shock left? And, is it even possible to use all the up travel they offer on a 3.5" GC lift with 37s?

Ed

 

[Headbarcode]

And the lower sections are 3 different diameters, I haven't measured each coil, but I'd bet the coils per length are nearly identical. The rates have got to be different. The droop coil looks identical between all 3 and as you said is a non-factor in the rate at ride height. The fronts have a significantly lower rate across every manufacturer that posts their rates, I can't imagine metalcloak is any different? In my experience the rocksports are way too soft, great for a budget rock crawling shock but not so much anywhere else. No experience with the 6paks, but for that price I'd go fox2.5 dscs from accutune regardless. I'm much happier with my bilstein 5100s and metalcloak springs than I was with the rocksports for the same budget.

Yeah, I kept reading the same thing about the Rocksports being soft, back when I was researching Metalcloak. Not liking both the soft factory and Dynatrac Endurosport setups, I wanted to stay away from another soft shock.

The Fox 2.5 DSC's seemed to review very well, but I was hesitant due to the near $4k price tag. Not that I'm know for pinching pennies on my Jeep, but I questioned spending the extra on adjustability that I probably wouldn't utilize enough to justify it. That exact thought prompted me to go with the Fox TS stabilizer instead of the ATS, which I would've just adjusted to a similar firmness and then never touch the knob again. Some like to soften down for the road, and stiffen up for the trail. I prefer it firmer on both.

In the end, the 6-packs fit my personal needs/wants for a daily driver/rock crawler, but at about half the cost of the DSC's.

 

[GATORB8]

Here's a rate calculator: https://eibach.com/us/p-192-spring-rate-calculator.html

For some reason I thought @Headbarcode had shared a pic of the 4.5s, and I ran that data (and that from my 3.5s) on the calculator using the wire diameters from the MC site at some point a few months back. I'll have to look for it.

 

[GATORB8]

From trying to research these 6pak shocks it seems the benefit is on the up travel. Do you feel you utilize the benefits of the up travel? Or are you bump stopping because of other issues and have more shock left? And, is it even possible to use all the up travel they offer on a 3.5" GC lift with 37s?

Ed

The relatively short compressed length is offset by an approximately (IIRC) 3" upper bracket, and about 1.5" from the lower outboards.

6 Pak spec:

• Compressed Size Eye to Eye: 13 1/4"
• Extended Length Eye to Eye: 28 1/4"

With 4.5" of bracket "shock extensions":

• Compressed Size Eye to Eye: 17 3/4"
• Extended Length Eye to Eye: 32 3/4"

 

[Headbarcode]

Are your pats the original mt01s or the new mt02s? Wife was happy with the 38" mt01s on the last jeep, I'm trying to find someone whose run both to see if there's a noticeable difference. The difference in wire diameter is pretty minimal, so the spring rates wouldn't be far off. I still don't know why everyone doesn't post their rates. If they are worried about other companies copying them, spring testers are cheap especially if you're getting into the manufacturing business. It's not some top secret proprietary information.

This is actually the first I'm hearing of the different mt01 and mt02 versions. I happen to still have my previous 38's in storage here at work, so I can check the sidewalls of both sets, to see what versions they are. I just need a chance to get over to that end of the yard. My season is breaking open and I'm stuck feeding my trommel to build up my dwindled stockpile of material. It's funny how long it's taking me to type these posts. I can only get several words in before having to get another bucket of material to process.

 

[GATORB8]

Here's a rate calculator: https://eibach.com/us/p-192-spring-rate-calculator.html

For some reason I thought @Headbarcode had shared a pic of the 4.5s, and I ran that data (and that from my 3.5s) on the calculator using the wire diameters from the MC site at some point a few months back. I'll have to look for it.

Found it, it was last summer, and I just tried to run 2.5 vs 3.5:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...2-50x17-door-handle-height.96375/post-1999795

 

[Headbarcode]

From trying to research these 6pak shocks it seems the benefit is on the up travel. Do you feel you utilize the benefits of the up travel? Or are you bump stopping because of other issues and have more shock left? And, is it even possible to use all the up travel they offer on a 3.5" GC lift with 37s?

Ed

Warning. This will be a longer post. Since you're the OP, I won't feel as bad.

The 6-packs themselves are 28.25" long between mounting hole centers when fully extended. They are only 13.25" long when fully collapsed, leaving 15" of available travel. No conventional shock can come close to traveling half of its extended length, much less surpassing that halfway mark. The Rocksports are 30" extended and 17.7" collapsed, leaving only 12.3" of available travel. Sorta comical to be referring to a respectable number like that as "only".

The other half of the 6-pack magic is that they get paired with shock relocation brackets. The front shocks get upper brackets that lower the mounting points, and the rears get lower brackets that raise the mounting points. I don't know the exact distance change, but it's somewhere around 2-2.5" front and back. They essentially provide the same potential droop of a 30.25-30.75" conventional shock, minus the potential downside of its longer body.

The brackets also shift the 6-packs further outward, because the level of droop would otherwise cause them to hit the frame before reaching full droop. An added plus with the rear lower brackets is being able to cut off the factory shock mounts. This raises those potential snag points by up to 2".

Am I taking full advantage of their fully collapsed length? No, not with 40x13.5's, 4.5" of backspace, and the factory Rubicons 68.5" axles. Chopping the factory fenders bought 3.5" of additional tire clearance up front and 2-2.5" out back, and some of the highest tuck liners also helped, but the inner shoulders of the front tires hit the liners before taking full advantage of the chopped fenders. 72.5" wide axles and 4.5" of backspace would really spice things up. I'd easily be able to drop from 4" of bumpstop spacing down to 2", or possibly less. But at the same time, let's not forget the relocation brackets. If I get too greedy, I risk bottoming out the shocks.

Depending on the actual size of the 37x12.5's, and assuming all else is the same as my Jeep, I can see being able to take advantage of the short collapsed length. Typically, after opening up fender clearance, bottoming out the shocks is the next thing that dictates bumpstop spacing. Maybe some 37er's can chime in to confirm that.

Until I can sneak a set of 60 series axles and 8 lug wheels with 3.5" backspace past my wife, my focus has been on droop. The front was easy enough, courtesy of the 4.5" springs and longer sway bar links. I also had to pull as much slack as possible out of the brake lines, wiring harnesses, and front diff breather. For the rear, I added a track bar relocation bracket. Aside from its ride and handling benefits on a lifted Jeep, it also allows the axle to drop straight down a little longer before shifting the axle towards one side or the other when flexing. I'm also in the process of trimming as much as I can out of both the fuel tank and etorque battery pack skids, to clear the JE Reel 1350 driveshaft. It's wanting to hard graze the bottom inner corners as it swings over at full droop. If I can't take enough to clear, I'll have to fab a track bar relocation bracket for the frame side, which will move that mounting point in and down.

 

[Roky]

Warning. This will be a longer post. Since you're the OP, I won't feel as bad.

The 6-packs themselves are 28.25" long between mounting hole centers when fully extended. They are only 13.25" long when fully collapsed, leaving 15" of available travel. No conventional shock can come close to traveling half of its extended length, much less surpassing that halfway mark. The Rocksports are 30" extended and 17.7" collapsed, leaving only 12.3" of available travel. Sorta comical to be referring to a respectable number like that as "only".

The other half of the 6-pack magic is that they get paired with shock relocation brackets. The front shocks get upper brackets that lower the mounting points, and the rears get lower brackets that raise the mounting points. I don't know the exact distance change, but it's somewhere around 2-2.5" front and back. They essentially provide the same potential droop of a 30.25-30.75" conventional shock, minus the potential downside of its longer body.

The brackets also shift the 6-packs further outward, because the level of droop would otherwise cause them to hit the frame before reaching full droop. An added plus with the rear lower brackets is being able to cut off the factory shock mounts. This raises those potential snag points by up to 2".

Am I taking full advantage of their fully collapsed length? No, not with 40x13.5's, 4.5" of backspace, and the factory Rubicons 68.5" axles. Chopping the factory fenders bought 3.5" of additional tire clearance up front and 2-2.5" out back, and some of the highest tuck liners also helped, but the inner shoulders of the front tires hit the liners before taking full advantage of the chopped fenders. 72.5" wide axles and 3.5" of backspace would really spice things up. I'd easily be able to drop from 4" of bumpstop spacing down to 2", or possibly less. But at the same time, let's not forget the relocation brackets. If I get too greedy, I risk bottoming out the shocks.

Depending on the actual size of the 37x12.5's, and assuming all else is the same as my Jeep, I can see being able to take advantage of the short collapsed length. Typically, after opening up fender clearance, bottoming out the shocks is the next thing that dictates bumpstop spacing. Maybe some 37er's can chime in to confirm that.

Until I can sneak a set of 60 series axles and 8 lug wheels with 3.5" backspace past my wife, my focus has been on droop. The front was easy enough, courtesy of the 4.5" springs and longer sway bar links. I also had to pull as much slack as possible out of the brake lines, wiring harnesses, and front diff breather. For the rear, I added a track bar relocation bracket. Aside from its ride and handling benefits on a lifted Jeep, it also allows the axle to drop straight down a little longer before shifting the axle towards one side or the other when flexing. I'm also in the process of trimming as much as I can out of both the fuel tank and etorque battery pack skids, to clear the JE Reel 1350 driveshaft. It's wanting to hard graze the bottom inner corners as it swings over at full droop. If I can't take enough to clear, I'll have to fab a track bar relocation bracket for the frame side, which will move that mounting point in and down.

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[AnnDee4444]

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