Taillight air compressor install

[OSCAR II]

Been on many jobs in potential hazardous locations where we could only use brass and air tools, so thats a good thing.

I like the brass couplers, I've been using milton couplers since forever but there male part has always been steel. Over time and since Lowes came around I've been using there brass male part just for rust reasons.
Compressor should be fine vertically but the motor might not. Not all motors are designed to run vertically, no bushing or bearings for thrust. Like you said its cheap, just hope it doesn't burn up at an inopportune moment.
Overall it looks slick as all, I like it. ?

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[unknownsolo]

Au contraire mon ami.
He has a metal air chuck located next to the gas filler door, which by definition is OPEN each time you fill up.
And if you don't tighten it well, you can have vapors.
During fill up you could have vapors collect inside the tail light housing which is an inch away.
It's not just the electric motor which can make a spark.
You can make a spark as you plug/unplug the air hose.
It would take several things to go wrong at the same time.
Zero wind.
Filling the car, then immediately airing the tires. Which might happen at the end of a day of wheeling when you use your little red 2 gallon gas tank to top off the gas and then air up the tires.
Be careful. Write down everything that could go wrong. Ask yourself if there is a different way to get the job accomplished. analyze the risks, then make a data based decision.

Jim Coffey
Chemical Engineer
Prof. Engineer License #69908, state of Texas.
Note I am NOT giving you engineering advice, just encouraging everyone to think about things that might happen.

This is like saying imagine walking down the street and a piano falls on your head. Can it happen? sure! Will it ever happen though? Even if you replicate all of the above exactly how you described it the chances of it happening are still slim to none. The taillight area is open to the wheel well and under the jeep, it's not sealed.

I don't know about older jeeps, but the gas filler compartment is already isolated in it's own little box. In the 4xe it even has a pressure monitor.

The same can be said about mounting under the hood. Or your engine in general. if you have vapor leak and anything under your engine sparks...

 

[wcjeep]

To protect the air chuck from debri I use rubber tips from a walker.

 

[DWaX]

I added onboard air but used the rear compartment.

Pulling in filtered cabin air for cooling. (blue tubes)
Remote 'on/off' from switch pro at dash.

WaX

 

[LooselyHeldPlans]

Huh… looks like I’ve found my water pump location for when I put a tank underneath. Is the other side free as well?

 

[unknownsolo]

Huh… looks like I’ve found my water pump location for when I put a tank underneath. Is the other side free as well?

Won't fit on the other side. It's not as much space as the driver side.

 

[BrandonDIS]

You're good at being flexible

 

[UncleJimmy]

What is wrong with installing in engine compartment? What's the purpose of installing in taillight?

 

[AnnDee4444]

What is wrong with installing in engine compartment?

Heat.

 

[Grayhound]

What is wrong with installing in engine compartment? What's the purpose of installing in taillight?

The diesel doesn’t leave a lot of room under the hood. So finding an out of the way place that still worked with routing the hose was a challenge.

 

[UncleJimmy]

Heat.

Not sure why engine heat has anything to do with an air compressor; other engine components do fine. The heat that kills air compressors is from the compressor itself since they are partial duty cycle and are not designed to run for very long. Too each his own.

The diesel doesn’t leave a lot of room under the hood. So finding an out of the way place that still worked with routing the hose was a challenge.

Yes, that makes sense.

 

[AnnDee4444]

Not sure why engine heat has anything to do with an air compressor; other engine components do fine. The heat that kills air compressors is from the compressor itself since they are partial duty cycle and are not designed to run for very long.

PV = nRT. A colder compressor intake will be denser than one that's hot, leading to faster fill times. Also starting with a cold compressor will be able to have a longer runtime before reaching the duty cycle threshold

 

[DWaX]

Not sure why engine heat has anything to do with an air compressor; other engine components do fine. The heat that kills air compressors is from the compressor itself since they are partial duty cycle and are not designed to run for very long. Too each his own.

Most air compressors are designed to be air cooled, the air they pull in to compress is responsible for cooling the unit. With average engine compartment temps being 200 - 250 degrees Fahrenheit, this cuts life expectancy down by about 2/3 life cycle.

Wax

 

[UncleJimmy]

Not trying to be argumentative here but I just don't think engine heat makes that much of a difference. The ambient temp will not effect it much because the compressor will heat up to that temp and beyond in about a minute.

I have had portable higher volume air compressors fail in under a year and not exposed to engine heat. The reality is that most air compressors including many of the popular off road brands are really not designed for 100% duty use which means if you are inflating oversized tires from very low psi then that heat is what will kill the air compressor. I can see why people have their compressors fail and assume it's due to engine heat.

Like I said, to each his own and if others want to find other mounting solutions that's fine by me.

 

[Industrialwrench]

Au contraire mon ami.
He has a metal air chuck located next to the gas filler door, which by definition is OPEN each time you fill up.
And if you don't tighten it well, you can have vapors.
During fill up you could have vapors collect inside the tail light housing which is an inch away.
It's not just the electric motor which can make a spark.
You can make a spark as you plug/unplug the air hose.
It would take several things to go wrong at the same time.
Zero wind.
Filling the car, then immediately airing the tires. Which might happen at the end of a day of wheeling when you use your little red 2 gallon gas tank to top off the gas and then air up the tires.
Be careful. Write down everything that could go wrong. Ask yourself if there is a different way to get the job accomplished. analyze the risks, then make a data based decision.

Jim Coffey
Chemical Engineer
Prof. Engineer License #69908, state of Texas.
Note I am NOT giving you engineering advice, just encouraging everyone to think about things that might happen.

You can throw a burning cigarette into a bucket of gasoline and it will be just fine. The chances of an issue are almost zero.

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