Differential fluid

[Wabujitsu]

Yeah I don't even know why @Rhinebeck01 bothered to reply if his attitude turned so hateful and dismissive. Not someone I would ever turn to for advice. Maybe he could just keep his asshat opinions to himself next time and not try to be "so helpful". For what it's worth I use 75/140 gear oil F&R. And I'm sure if I mention the brand he would do a "deep dive" into why that brand was no good.

Regardless of his response, @Rhinebeck01 has a WEALTH of information he shares freely. Everyone gets annoyed, everyone has a bad day. I wouldn’t judge him on just a couple of contentious posts.

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[jellis4148]

What does the T/L mean on the rear diff Fluid on the spec sheet?

 

[wreck99]

Did they remove the drain plugs for the diffs in 2024?

 

[CarbonSteel]

What does the T/L mean on the rear diff Fluid on the spec sheet?

ELD = Electronic Locking Differential
STD = Standard
TL = Trac-Lok (aka limited slip)

 

[gsbrockman]

Did they remove the drain plugs for the diffs in 2024?

Actually….I think they were removed in the 2022 model year.

 

[wreck99]

Actually….I think they were removed in the 2022 model year.

Well that sucks. I still have a ways to go before changing my diff fluids but I guess we're dropping the cover. Just have to decide when to do the first diff change. Thinking 15k, maybe 25-30k. I plan to do some offroading each month, not a ton. But probably good to stay on top of it.

 

[gsbrockman]

Well that sucks. I still have a ways to go before changing my diff fluids but I guess we're dropping the cover. Just have to decide when to do the first diff change. Thinking 15k, maybe 25-30k. I plan to do some offroading each month, not a ton. But probably good to stay on top of it.

Sooner than later will be better. I’d certainly check the fluid levels if you haven’t.

My used 2022 Willys XR I purchased at 6,700 miles was 8 ozs low in the front differential and 12 ozs low in the rear differential.

I’m at 14k miles now, and that will be an upcoming project soon for me.

 

[wreck99]

Sooner than later will be better. I’d certainly check the fluid levels if you haven’t.

My used 2022 Willys XR I purchased at 6,700 miles was 8 ozs low in the front differential and 12 ozs low in the rear differential.

I’m at 14k miles now, and that will be an upcoming project soon for me.

I'm at 2k now, never checked it yet. Good thinking. I remember hearing some with low fills from the factory.

 

[gsbrockman]

I'm at 2k now, never checked it yet. Good thinking. I remember hearing some with low fills from the factory.

I recall reading that the differential cover gaskets are reusable.

That was the case with my 2013 RAM 3500 and 2014 RAM 3500 with AAM axles.

Makes for a really easy fluid change, with no cleanup required when compared to those covers requiring RTV sealant.

At the end of the day….removing the cover and taking a peek inside is the better way of performing the differential fluid changes anyway.

 

[wreck99]

I recall reading that the differential cover gaskets are reusable.

That was the case with my 2013 RAM 3500 and 2014 RAM 3500 with AAM axles.

Makes for a really easy fluid change, with no cleanup required when compared to those covers requiring RTV sealant.

At the end of the day….removing the cover and taking a peek inside is the better way of performing the differential fluid changes anyway.

That's very true.

I'm getting ready to change the diff and TC fluids in our 2019 ram 1500. That has drain plugs.

 

[gsbrockman]

That's very true.

I'm getting ready to change the diff and TC fluids in our 2019 ram 1500. That has drain plugs.

So does my 2022 RAM 5500; bad part is, it has no rear differential cover….so drain plugs are my only choice for fluid changes.

 

[Wabujitsu]

I just had my front and rear diff fluid changed in my ‘21 JLUR a week ago. Being a disabled guy with the finances to pay someone else to do it is a blessing.

I took it to one of my favorite shops; the guys are smart, pleasant, and I always get a military discount, and they let me hang out in the shop.

But…there was one weird thing that the tech said to me. After he opened the front and rear diffs, I walked back to ask what they found, as I have 24K miles on the vehicle, and I run heavy with mods and 35” MTs and push it off-road.

There were no metal shavings or water. He said the rear diff had the normal “light dusting of dark powder.” I asked what that was from. His reply: “It’s the normal clutch dust from the clutches of your LSD.”

It doesn’t have an LSD. It has electric lockers, stock. I had to explain that to him. He said it was from the clutches of the locker. WTF? I had to point out and explain the anatomy of the stock lockers, and how they work. He looked very puzzled.

At any rate, he did a great job. They used a sealant/cement in lieu of gaskets. I already had a slight leak from the stock gasket. They will be doing all of my diff fluid changes, and are used to removing the covers after using that sealant. The owner sold me on it, saying it sets up so well you don’t even have to put the bolts back in (but of course they did).

And yes, I told them to use 75/140 (Mobil, I believe).

 

[bd100]

drain plugs are my only choice for fluid changes.

If you ever smash up the drain plug, something like this works well:
Suction Gun

These things are hard to find on parts store websites. Searching for "fluid transfer pump" usually won't find them. Search for "suction gun".

They're on the shelf at any auto parts store next to the oil change stuff.

And maybe get one for gear lube, and another for ATF, so you don't cross contaminate.

 

[Philly_]

Well that sucks. I still have a ways to go before changing my diff fluids but I guess we're dropping the cover. Just have to decide when to do the first diff change. Thinking 15k, maybe 25-30k. I plan to do some offroading each month, not a ton. But probably good to stay on top of it.

I just did mine at 20k and it was definitely worth it. Many report their front diff oil still looks new at this point, but I’ve been pushing my Jeep hard off-road since about 2k miles, with lost of 4-Auto time on snowy roads.

My front diff looked worse than the rear! No large metal chunks or anything out of the ordinary, but the front oil had a bit of a sparkle and was a lot darker than the rear. Didn’t measure how much came out, but maybe I had a low fill like others have said they got from factory.

Anyways, I took it as an opportunity to upgrade to some Motobilt covers to add a little beef for the rocks.

Went with Valvoline 75W-140 because it’s been recommended so many times, and my old man works in specialty oils/fuels as a supplier to most of the big brands, so I know Valvoline is great stuff, and the flex fill pouches make filling a breeze.

 

[thestein13]

The M200 is also referred to as a JL Dana 44. Read the current, Dana spec sheets in regard to "Lubricant Type" to use for the Dana 44, as recommended by Dana.

In regard to the JL:

JL Rubicon = Dana M210 Front / Dana M220 Rear

JL Sahara (Standard) = Dana 186MM Front / Dana M200 Rear

JL Sport = Dana M186 Front / Dana M200 Rear

JL Sahara & Sport Option = Dana M220 Rear
As an option, the JL Sahara and Sport are also available with a Dana M220 rear axle which comes as a part of the limited slip differential.

The M200 is also referred to as a JL Dana 44. Read the current, Dana spec sheets in regard to "Lubricant Type" to use for the Dana 44, as recommended by Dana.

In regard to the JL:

JL Rubicon = Dana M210 Front / Dana M220 Rear

JL Sahara (Standard) = Dana 186MM Front / Dana M200 Rear

JL Sport = Dana M186 Front / Dana M200 Rear

JL Sahara & Sport Option = Dana M220 Rear
As an option, the JL Sahara and Sport are also available with a Dana M220 rear axle which comes as a part of the limited slip differential.

The M200 is also referred to as a JL Dana 44. Read the current, Dana spec sheets...

Currently, the M200 is referred to as a Dana 35. Do your research before you spread more misinformation.

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