Search results

Did the same thing on my old JKU, and I agree, something about concrete water looks so cool on Jeeps! I didn't realize it was alkaline until someone told me a couple days later, but it did not noticeably damage the paint. So you're probably going to have to leave it on there for a while if you...

That's a bummer... I guess it's time for an Atlas transfer case while you're at it! ;) Or you could try swapping in a set of 3.5" springs if you want that functionality back. I really enjoy the 4-auto functionality and appreciate the CV axle shafts it came with for the smoother power delivery...

I have this transfer case and run somewhere between 4-4.5 degrees of caster with an Adams driveshaft. I have no vibrations, and this was the caster I had stock as well; however, I only have a 2.5" lift. A lot of people don't like the feeling of lower caster and it's often described as...

Like others have said, AEV makes great stuff, and I wouldn't hesitate to put any of their parts on a Jeep I owned. A good friend of mine has a 2013 JKU Rubicon with a full AEV 3.5" kit and it drives like a dream. To improve handling, you'll want adjustable track bars to center the axles. Only...

I like the look of painted tops, but didn't get one on my Jeep because I swap between hard and soft top anywyays, and it's easier to touch up the black. For cowl mounts, there's definitely a ton to choose from. Just make sure you have decent hardware so that it doesn't corrode and leave rust...

I like that the follow past the rear fender flare! I also think you could get away with the black top, if the light bar mount is black as well. I think if you paint match the light bar mount, then you'll want to paint match the top.

The standard one doesn’t have the controls for the rear wiper/washer fluid. Otherwise they’re the same!

It’s a bit of a pain to add the hard top afterwards. If you won’t use the soft top, or don’t want it, I would talk to the dealer about making it right. To order a hard top after deliver is pricey. Your best bet is to find one for sale here or on Facebook marketplace, but then you still need to...

Not from the factory. 4.88's from factory are only available as an option with the 3.6L/manual. Closest you can get otherwise is 4.56's on the XR package.

That's quite odd to me. What would the point of a boot be over a standard U-joint?

I’ve seen a couple failures. One was forced off the road by oncoming traffic and it snapped right at the FAD housing. Others, I have no idea. It’s a weak point for sure, but it doesn’t mean it’s ever going to be a problem for you. Too much skinny pedal and bouncing hard off road can break a lot...

I think the only way we could all really benefit from the FAD delete from factory is if they changed the axle housing as well. The big hole they have in there for the electronics and whatnot is still the weak point, even with the block off plate. If I have to have the hole, I'm happy there's at...

I just went back to you first post, and because you have the 4xe, which comes the the 2.0T, 4.88's should be more than enough for 37's. You might even be okay with 4.56's because of the extra torque from the electric motor, but I haven't done much digging into 4xe setups. For what it's worth, I...

If you're absolutely going with 3.5" and 37's, you can buy nearly everything you need from Metalcloak and know it's all top of the line to keep things easy on yourself. From Metalcloak: - 3.5" Gamechanger - Rocksport Black Shocks (because you mentioned some high speed trail running) - Front...

Honestly, I never had a problem with my 3.8L that wasn't my fault (apparently water isn't combustible... only do that once!). I feel like the biggest issue was the 42RLE transmission that decided to grenade itself at around 80k miles and I had to scrap everything but the housing. It shifted...

So…. When should we be expecting the Fireball Whisky edition?

I’ve seen it randomly excluded from some builds, so I couldn’t tell you for sure. Easiest way to tell would be to look at your front axle, and on the passenger side there will be a box on the axle tube. If that has wires plugged in to the back side, you’ve got it. If you don’t have those wires...

I like to think it sounds more like a sewing machine. But yeah, they can be a little loud staring up. Once they’re warm, I find them to be one of the quietest engines around. If you’re really worried something isn’t right, you could always run by a dealer to test drive one on the lot to compare...

Wow... what a nightmare. Only thing I can think of for the bouncing feeling in the rear is if your pinion angle is severely messed up, and there's binding while at ride height. Hopefully your latest shop took care of that already.

If you're dead set on lifting and bigger tires, I would go for a 2.5" lift and 35's because it sounds like it's mostly a daily driver with lots of highway. This combo gives you a bit of the look you're going for, without a lot of the added maintenance of 37"+ tires and higher lifts. For which...