Best shocks?

[Joaquim]

I have a mopar 2 inch lift kit (https://www.justforjeeps.com/jl-2--...t_ky1jJFgbOHpD-E3PfHLzkF6tY6jYEgaAlQqEALw_wcB) and I was wondering what shocks I should get now that mine are going bad. Would a shock with a reservoir really make a difference if I have a dana 30 axle? My thinking is that upgrading to that shock without upgrading axles wouldn't make any sense because the axle would break before I could actually use the shock. Also, I am looking for the same fox shocks that came with this kit and cannot seem to find them anywhere (they are 2.5s without the reservoir).

Thanks,

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[Joaquim]

found it..... https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ase-fox-2-5-performance-series-shocks.101297/

Thanks, I just messaged them. What would the practical difference between the 2.5s without the reservoir and with the reservoir be?

 

[jhackathorne]

Also to note, your axles and shocks, while connected and function alongside one another, are largely independent components. Research reserve shocks and their benefits. Quite a bit of people buy them for the looks and placebo effect while offering them no true benefit for their on-road use. Shock length is going to be the most important piece you are looking for to be able to get the flex you want and not bottom out. You'll also want to make sure you have proper bump stop set.

 

[Mocopo]

The reservoir is all about heat dissipation. If you think you'll be spending long hours on rough or wash boarded dirt roads, or want to bomb through the desert at high speeds, your shocks will be working overtime and you want the extra heat dissipation to help prolong the life of the shock. For rock crawling and any slow speed stuff, the reservoir adds no benefit. That is when you want to look for the collapsed and extended stroke lengths and match it to the flex you're looking for.

 

[Joaquim]

Also to note, your axles and shocks, while connected and function alongside one another, are largely independent components. Research reserve shocks and their benefits. Quite a bit of people buy them for the looks and placebo effect while offering them no true benefit for their on-road use. Shock length is going to be the most important piece you are looking for to be able to get the flex you want and not bottom out. You'll also want to make sure you have proper bump stop set.

Well the advantage of the reservoir ones are that they can take more of an impact and keep the vehicle stable correct(jumps, bumps, etc.)? And putting too much stress on a dana 30/stock balljoints & knuckles would break something right? So wouldn't it be useless to upgrade to reservoir shocks without first upgrading those other suspension components? Or am I misunderstanding what the reservoirs do?

 

[Joaquim]

The reservoir is all about heat dissipation. If you think you'll be spending long hours on rough or wash boarded dirt roads, or want to bomb through the desert at high speeds, your shocks will be working overtime and you want the extra heat dissipation to help prolong the life of the shock. For rock crawling and any slow speed stuff, the reservoir adds no benefit. That is when you want to look for the collapsed and extended stroke lengths and match it to the flex you're looking for.

Ah okay I see, so the reservoir wouldn't add any benefit for on road driving correct? Unless I am driving through downtown LA with all the potholes and trash in the street

 

[jhackathorne]

Ah okay I see, so the reservoir wouldn't add any benefit for on road driving correct? Unless I am driving through downtown LA with all the potholes and trash in the street

Even if you're driving on super bad streets it won't make a difference. Unless you are doing it long term and at higher speeds.

For your ball joints and knuckle question... you're likely just fine. I/m not sure if you are in Boulder, CO or LA, but the only reason to upgrade those is if you are hitting decently rough trails or want to just do preventative maintenance to prevent any future breakage. Even then, there is likely no guarantee things will break if you are just rolling in a pavement princess.

 

[Old Jeeper]

I have a mopar 2 inch lift kit (https://www.justforjeeps.com/jl-2--...t_ky1jJFgbOHpD-E3PfHLzkF6tY6jYEgaAlQqEALw_wcB) and I was wondering what shocks I should get now that mine are going bad. Would a shock with a reservoir really make a difference if I have a dana 30 axle? My thinking is that upgrading to that shock without upgrading axles wouldn't make any sense because the axle would break before I could actually use the shock. Also, I am looking for the same fox shocks that came with this kit and cannot seem to find them anywhere (they are 2.5s without the reservoir).

Thanks,

There is only a hand full of major Shock Mfg in the entire world and a hand full of a few bow-teak companies that make them, most of that is specialty shocks for special applications from Baja racing to round and round. That is how FOX got its start, don't if they mfg their own or outsource today. I had the FOX on my Rubicon RECON and as the miles rack up (note I just traded it in with 28k miles on it) the ride go so rough that it was uncomfortable even for me and I like firm shocks. Lots of good shocks out there just pick one.

Personally: Rancho

Reservoir shocks: WOW, they look cool, make your jeep look all pro, stands out, and will REALLY impress the folks at the Sonic Drive-in. I personally would have them on mu rig if I thought they were of any value for what do, rock crawling.

They came into play back when Baja racing was really popular...a 1000 miles down thru Baja over roads that break axles, burn up transmissions, and everything else under the hood and frame. and you can only imagine how hot the shocks get. YES get a set of those for your next high-speed desert 24 hr enduro or if want to run the Baja over 24 hrs and a 1000 miles.

Your wallet your Jeep, if you like them get'um, they do look cool, so go for it.

 

[Mocopo]

Ah okay I see, so the reservoir wouldn't add any benefit for on road driving correct? Unless I am driving through downtown LA with all the potholes and trash in the street

Spot on!

 

[The J)eepstate]

Have always had regular shocks. OME BP51's on the JKUR with OME +300kg springs and now the Bilstein 5100's that came with the AEV 2.5" DS kit on the JLUR.
No reservoirs, no sensors that adjusts the dampening rate "in-flight", just regular shock absorbers. And they did and continue to do exactly what I need them to.
Ran the Billsteins over Moroccoan washboard and other beyond-mainstreet conditions at 50-80kph for 6-10 hours a day, for days on end, and despite running into a few "bumpy reality checks" along the way, no fails. Yes, they got warm, very warm at times.
The OME's I swapped for a new pair after nearly 90'000km's driven through 15+ countries when the rear right finally started leaking slightly.

I don't know who extended reservoir shocks or these new even more high-tech shocks are actually intended for, but apparently they're not necessary for my "traveling and the occasional really technical section"-profile.

Probably for people who do driving for a living by either being rallye-pro's doing jumps or sponsored youtube overlanders giving people delusions driving forest service roads on 40" 's

 

[Roky]

Ah okay I see, so the reservoir wouldn't add any benefit for on road driving correct? Unless I am driving through downtown LA with all the potholes and trash in the street

Unless they are adjustable….. I use the crap out mine, firm them up on winding highway or freeway travel to lessen body roll and nose dive, soften them up for off-roading. I sometimes firm up the rear when hauling extra weight, etc….. they’re great….they’ll punch your wallet right in the face, but for me and my use it was well worth it…..

 

[Joaquim]

Even if you're driving on super bad streets it won't make a difference. Unless you are doing it long term and at higher speeds.

For your ball joints and knuckle question... you're likely just fine. I/m not sure if you are in Boulder, CO or LA, but the only reason to upgrade those is if you are hitting decently rough trails or want to just do preventative maintenance to prevent any future breakage. Even then, there is likely no guarantee things will break if you are just rolling in a pavement princess.

First part was more of a joke targeted at Los Angeles being a dumpster fire. I do drive it on dunes and some rough rocky trails at speed, but due to the price I think I'll stick with the 2.5s. Full set of 2.5s seems to be just under 1,000, and a full set of fox with reservoir would be 1.5k for 2.0s to 3/4k for 3.0s correct?

 

[Old Jeeper]

Unless they are adjustable….. I use the crap out mine, firm them up on winding highway or freeway travel to lessen body roll and nose dive, soften them up for off-roading. I sometimes firm up the rear when hauling extra weight, etc….. they’re great….they’ll punch your wallet right in the face, but for me and my use it was well worth it…..

Reservoir, NO, Rancho RS 9000 XL ADJUSTABLE shocks, no gimmicks just performance, been running them on F 450s and Jeeps since 2002

 

[AnnDee4444]

Rancho RS 9000 XL ADJUSTABLE shocks

Travel is terrible with Rancho shocks.

Front Shock	Compressed	Extended	Travel
Rancho RS9000XL for 2" lift	18.16"	25.21"	7.05"
Mopar 2" lift shocks (what the OP has)	17.5"	26.25"	8.75"
Stock Rubicon with 2" shock extensions	17.75"	25.63"	7.88"

 

[GATORB8]

The reservoir is all about heat dissipation. If you think you'll be spending long hours on rough or wash boarded dirt roads, or want to bomb through the desert at high speeds, your shocks will be working overtime and you want the extra heat dissipation to help prolong the life of the shock. For rock crawling and any slow speed stuff, the reservoir adds no benefit. That is when you want to look for the collapsed and extended stroke lengths and match it to the flex you're looking for.

Definitely application specific, but there is a potential travel benefit from moving to a Resi. In the Resi the IFP and gas charge is relocated to the reservoir, that room in the shock body is then available for shaft piston travel.

As an example, I moved from Bilstein 5100s to 5165s both in 3.5-4”. The 5165s have both shorter compressed and longer extended measurements compared to the Monotubes. The reduced compressed length allowed me to use outboard brackets and move up the shock mounts without increasing bump stop, adding approximately 2”+ of droop with no other changes.

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