Backup Lights

[Shlice]

You can pull the rear passenger light off there’s a hole to run the wires in. You can tap in with a splice connector to the white brown or connecting wire, I can’t recall if it was the pink or grey one. You can trace from the reverse light also. Just pop the trim cover off the top and use the torx wrench to remove the bolt and the light just pops out.

I can try to find pics layet but if google this forum enough or read further back you should find most of what you need.

Thank you.

So if i purchase an aux LED light that has been recommended here, what else do I need. I hear mention of a "harness." The aux. light I purchase should have a positive and a ground wire coming from them. What would I need a harness for?

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[Martindfletcher]

Thank you.

So if i purchase an aux LED light that has been recommended here, what else do I need. I hear mention of a "harness." The aux. light I purchase should have a positive and a ground wire coming from them. What would I need a harness for?

Rigid supplies a harness for an on off switch. And also sells harness with a relay to have the option of a switch and reverse light.

@Rhinebeck01 would know better, but I believe if you JUST tap into the reverse light wire and not a switch you can just use connector from the +12v light like https://smile.amazon.com/your-order...ryId=&returnUnitIndices=&shipmentId=Dx9WWbY6D

Seal it up with tape, liquid tape or silicone, hook the ground anywhere you can find a good ground and you should be good to go.

Worst case you add a diode.

Likewise if you go directly 12v + to a switch with no reverse light I think that is ok too.

 

[Shlice]

Rigid supplies a harness for an on off switch. And also sells harness with a relay to have the option of a switch and reverse light.

@Rhinebeck01 would know better, but I believe if you JUST tap into the reverse light wire and not a switch you can just use connector from the +12v light like https://smile.amazon.com/your-order...ryId=&returnUnitIndices=&shipmentId=Dx9WWbY6D

Seal it up with tape, liquid tape or silicone, hook the ground anywhere you can find a good ground and you should be good to go.

Worst case you add a diode.

Likewise if you go directly 12v + to a switch with no reverse light I think that is ok too.

You linked me to your amazon orders page (which just brings up my orders for me.) Can I have a link to the product please.

Thank you.

 

[Martindfletcher]

You linked me to your amazon orders page (which just brings up my orders for me.) Can I have a link to the product please.

Thank you.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BFZ7U?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

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If not search for this
3M™ Scotchlok™ Electrical IDC 905-BOX

 

[Shlice]

Okay, so if the light I buy has a red and a black wire coming from it, the red taps into the reverse light and the black gets grounded. How does it get power?

Thank you again

 

[Martindfletcher]

Okay, so if the light I buy has a red and a black wire coming from it, the red taps into the reverse light and the black gets grounded. How does it get power?

Thank you again

When the reverse light is triggered there should br 12v on the line.

 

[plex]

@plex

You will need to buy a spool of 16g automotive wire ($6.00+-) and some plastic sleeve/shield that you can get at Harbor Freight for say $3.00..

Thanks, did you use a ground wire to the front?

 

[Martindfletcher]

Thanks, did you use a ground wire to the front?

There is a ground bolt under the cover where the 12v lighter is. Or you could ground to bolts on the bumper or hitch or anywhere there is ground. Or you could run it to the front.

 

[plex]

So I finally installed the Rigid ignite lights. I did follow @Rhinebeck01 's instruction on wiring through frame rail to engine hood. Very satisfied about the results.


Some notes for people want to replicate:

(1) It takes about 13 ft of wires from rear bumper to the exact location of aux wires in engine hood, so planing planing!

(2) I did not use plastic wire wrap, instead I went with PET braided sleeve and heat shrink every joint.

(3) I also put a piece of gorilla tape to the frame rail, actually not because of the wiring. I do not like there is hole right behind front wheels, waiting to collect road debris.

(4) I did not wire it into rear lights for couple of reasons, do not want to mess with CAN, do not want to use diodes, mostly used them "on-demand" when it is dark outside. When I need them, I just push Aux 3.

(5) The pictures I saw in this thread are either steel or aftermarket bumpers. Mine is plastic bumper, and I actually used two screws that bolt bumper cover to bumper to mount the lights, I am sure someone can also drill a 1/4" hole anywhere in the plastic.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

@plex

Glad to see you got-er-done and you did a nice job of it.

I do think you are missing the boat so to speak, though... It really is very easy, not expensive and you will see no issues, if just wire in the Rigids to the b/u wire, also. To each his own though... I do encourage others that do this install to incorporate both an Aux and the b/u wire in their Rigid install.

The JL is really really lacking in regard to stock backup lighting... so much nicer to just have the Rigid's come on automatically when you put the JL in reverse.


@plex .........Now, just paint that friggin muffler and tailpipe black! Very easy to do with black Rustoleum. Does not need to be high temp paint, either. 8-)

 

[Pjhusker]

How interested would you guy be in a kit that replaces the factory reflectors on the bumpers with a pair of flood LED lights?

It would be a complete kit designed for the JL, with wiring and everything.

I do think you would have to cut the bumper behind the reflets asd it is solid if im correct. WOuld that change anything?

I would be very interested in a product like this.

 

[LouNYC]

I have been unsuccessful two times trying to get the wire through the rail frame. I even purchased fish tape. What did you guys use? My Baja Design S2 is hooked and ready to go.

 

[melendez69]

@LouNYC ... I used fish tape, but a wire hanger will also do. With the fish tape, make sure you straighten out the end. It should make its way through with very little difficulty... it may take about 15-20 minutes or so, but it will work. Start up top near the battery & push it through slowly... you should see the wire at each hole in the rail underneath.

Where are you having trouble?

 

[LouNYC]

@LouNYC ... I used fish tape, but a wire hanger will also do. With the fish tape, make sure you straighten out the end. It should make its way through with very little difficulty... it may take about 15-20 minutes or so, but it will work. Start up top near the battery & push it through slowly... you should see the wire at each hole in the rail underneath.

Where are you having trouble?

Thanks for the response. It seems like the fish tape is hitting a weld inside the frame rail. There aren't any holes in the middle of the rail. I will try again this weekend.

 

[Jnz]

Thanks for the response. It seems like the fish tape is hitting a weld inside the frame rail. There aren't any holes in the middle of the rail. I will try again this weekend.

I used a steel cable that I had laying around. It did get hung up somewhere near the rear axle. I had to work it a bit to get it past that weld or whatever it was hitting.

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