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Backup lights fuse?

mrtm1970

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Amen, to each their own. Thanks for not blowing me up. I wasn’t trying to be harsh either.
I do want to make a correction…looks like Fuse F111 is a cartridge style so you can’t do a fuse tap to it like was relayed in another post I got this idea from.
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FireAnt21

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I disagree with this; fuse taps are perfectly acceptable and keep from “tapping” into wire that is exposed to the elements. With a fuse tap, not a single wire is cut or pierced and they stay inside the watertight plastic box that the fuses are in. Your diodes stay up in the engine compartment too. It’s just my two cents, but I’ve been wiring Jeeps for 35 years now, and totally disagree with your comment on “more sensible” outside the PDC.
the pdc is not water tight. The wires come right out the back between the firewall.
 

bobholthaus

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the pdc is not water tight. The wires come right out the back between the firewall.
I deleted that word above. Thank you for the clarification.

Okay whose got a link to how to tap this wire below the box?!
 

gm920

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We’ll never mind. I’m a bigger dummy than I thought. You have to be in the seat for the backup lights to come on. I was putting it in reverse with the e-brake on.
?
You do not have to be in the seat, but the seat belt does need to be fastened. Just fasten the set belt behind you and you can open the drivers door and get out without auto park kicking in.
 

gm920

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You are not a "dummy"... but you learned....

Yes, the JL goes into auto park when you do that and then the b/u lights do not go on...

I know when I need to say check certain things in regard to back up lights and I am alone.... I with engine idling, set parking brake very firmly, place automatic shift in R and then climb over console and open and go out the passenger door. I do this and auto park does not kick in whereas if I went out driver's door auto park would kick in.

Yeah, not the safest move on my part.... but...
Just fasten the set belt behind you and you can open the drivers door and get out without auto park kicking in
 

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FireAnt21

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I deleted that word above. Thank you for the clarification.

Okay whose got a link to how to tap this wire below the box?!
Wasn’t trying to sound like a dick. My apologies. I just used a ttap was really easy
 

bobholthaus

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All good man. I didn’t think that; I’m glad you clarified. For some reason I thought those were waterproof.

F111 is the reverse light fuse, and it’s a square cartridge fuse, which I haven’t found a tap for yet. So I need to get underneath the box and find the correct wire to tap, which I don’t love to do. Not a ton of slack on those wires, and I don’t like to pierce an OEM wire unless I can cut it and use a waterproof molex connector to get it back together.
 

FireAnt21

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@bobholthaus once you take the top part of the pdc off you’ll be met with a blue connector. Pop the plastic blue retainer off of it and the look for the orange/white wire directly under where the fuse would go for f111
 

FireAnt21

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Was typing when you sent that. You could solder and heat shrink. I do get your concern
 

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bobholthaus

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@bobholthaus once you take the top part of the pdc off you’ll be met with a blue connector. Pop the plastic blue retainer off of it and the look for the orange/white wire directly under where the fuse would go for f111
Thank you for that info!
Was typing when you sent that. You could solder and heat shrink. I do get your concern
if I can create enough slack, I will cut it and heat shrink it. My JK I kept for 10 years, so I’m not willing to do things that may fail in the future.
 

gm920

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FireAnt21

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Thank you for that info!

if I can create enough slack, I will cut it and heat shrink it. My JK I kept for 10 years, so I’m not willing to do things that may fail in the future.
Once you get it off there’s plenty of slack.
 

bobholthaus

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Once you get it off there’s plenty of slack.
Do I have to take all of the wires off of the 10 mm nuts on the one side of the PDC? And then I’m guessing I have to unplug all four of those big modules underneath? Lastly, I saw today that the diesel PDC is located in a different spot. Hopefully it’s all still the same slack and everything else.
 

FireAnt21

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Do I have to take all of the wires off of the 10 mm nuts on the one side of the PDC? And then I’m guessing I have to unplug all four of those big modules underneath? Lastly, I saw today that the diesel PDC is located in a different spot. Hopefully it’s all still the same slack and everything else.
You have a diesel? The 10mm hold each connector on
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