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Aluminum knuckle failure

Rangemaster

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The cimpled Jeeps in both of these videos seem to have the same witness marks in the tapered lower ball joint bores of the knuckles. My guess is that both Jeeps had loose ball joint studs that allowed the bores to get wallowed out. That movement allowed a slide hammering affect, that when coupled to the shock load of wheel slip and ujoint crow hopping, amplified the stress leading to the compound break.

Reids high strength nodular iron knuckles and RCV axle shafts would avoid all that fun.

20211029_075831.jpg
Thanks Mike for being such a good salesman. Now i need RCV axle shafts.
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Yeah, this kinda confuses me as well. Dude is new to wheeling, yet is almost out of room on his fender for any more Badge of Honor badges.
Maybe he purchased the Rubicon used, with the badges already in place on the Jeep?

Or maybe it was a buddies Jeep he borrowed for the day?
 

Rangemaster

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Don't forget the Dynatrac HD ball joints... you know, while you're in there.

Already have the dynatrac ball joints, apex 2.5 tie rods, knuckles are on order.
 

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Rangemaster

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19 JLUR Bright Whit3

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Already have the dynatrac ball joints, apex 2.5 tie rods, knuckles are on order.
When I ordered my RCV axles in Feb, they said 12 weeks out for delivery. That will put me around May when I tear it all apart. I went with the FAD two piece version. I’m not sure if the one piece has a quicker delivery.
 

Rangemaster

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When I ordered my RCV axles in Feb, they said 12 weeks out for delivery. That will put me around May when I tear it all apart. I went with the FAD two piece version. I’m not sure if the one piece has a quicker delivery.
Dam, that is a long time. But on the otherside, had the ball joints and tierods for about 12 weeks now. Whats another 3 months.
 

Headbarcode

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When I ordered my RCV axles in Feb, they said 12 weeks out for delivery. That will put me around May when I tear it all apart. I went with the FAD two piece version. I’m not sure if the one piece has a quicker delivery.
What's your caster angle set at? I'm not going off topic, just approaching from a different direction.
 

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19 JLUR Bright Whit3

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Mike, No idea, never measured. I'm still running the control arms from the Mopar lift. (No caster adjustability) I never had vibrations coming from my driveshafts. I like the option of the FAD. RCVs are much stronger over stock, and the difference between the two piece and one piece is marginal. I may get adjustable arms in the future.
 
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Dam, that is a long time. But on the otherside, had the ball joints and tierods for about 12 weeks now. Whats another 3 months.
Dont forget tube seals....LOL
 

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I thought the diesels had the same cast iron knuckles as the gladiators. Was that updated somewhere mid stream or am I mistaken?
Only the Mohave gets the cast iron ones in Gladiator family.
 
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Headbarcode

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Mike, No idea, never measured. I'm still running the control arms from the Mopar lift. (No caster adjustability) I never had vibrations coming from my driveshafts. I like the option of the FAD. RCVs are much stronger over stock, and the difference between the two piece and one piece is marginal. I may get adjustable arms in the future.
That's more or less what I was getting at. The 1-piece is only about 5% stronger than the 2-piece that is twice as strong as oem and I believe 19% stronger than the ujoint shafts in a 60 series axle. For such a marginal increase in strength, it's a good idea to avoid using the 1-piece on a jeep with higher than factory spec caster. The flipside to improved handling with higher caster, is the resulting negative pinion angle. This could lead to vibrations at highway speed if the driveshaft is always spinning, especially when paired with a lifted Jeep and it's higher driveshaft angle. The only real weakness from the FAD is it's window in the axle tube.
 
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Only the Mohave gets the steel ones in Gladiator family.
The Mojave knuckles are the alternative to the Reid knuckles if you dont like the orange color. LOL
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