V6 engine issues

[Remorseless]

In and of itself, no that's not much. But the torque you impart to the cap goes all the way down to the bottom; you're putting a twist on the whole part, and as it ages and hardens, it becomes less capable of withstanding that torque. Add to that the fact that the plastic is sticky, and requires way more torque to break loose than the 18 ft. lb you used to put it on. (I've measured.)

I will continue to use no more torque than is necessary to seat the O-ring and bottom the cap in the hope that this is sufficient to keep the damned thing from breaking for as long as I have it.

Gawd these things are junk...

With how it bolts down you're not gonna twist much if it's properly seated. Most of the time it goes it's due to the seals against the surface of the block, not due to cracking or twisting. Just straight up the o-rings coming unseated and deforming or seals blowing out (Mopar had to add plastic to support some seals that were basically unsupported in the old design, was stupid, but the redesign is better there). I had the most problematic generation for oil cooler - a '12 JK - for 100k mi. Zero issues with tons of heat (lots of slow 4L wheeling) and oil changes every 5kish miles with the proper torque spec. The torque spec isn't too high, the seal design is/was inadequate. Time will tell if the changes made will remedy the issue.

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[Tncdrew]

In and of itself, no that's not much. But the torque you impart to the cap goes all the way down to the bottom; you're putting a twist on the whole part, and as it ages and hardens, it becomes less capable of withstanding that torque. Add to that the fact that the plastic is sticky, and requires way more torque to break loose than the 18 ft. lb you used to put it on. (I've measured.)

I will continue to use no more torque than is necessary to seat the O-ring and bottom the cap in the hope that this is sufficient to keep the damned thing from breaking for as long as I have it.

Gawd these things are junk...

I'd have to agree. It's an o-ring seal. Once you've seated the o-ring, and the cap has bottomed, what's the point of torqueing it any further? As you've described, beyond the point of bottoming, you're just putting undue twisting stress on the entire plastic housing.

 

[Remorseless]

I'd have to agree. It's an o-ring seal. Once you've seated the o-ring, and the cap has bottomed, what's the point of torqueing it any further? As you've described, beyond the point of bottoming, you're just putting undue twisting stress on the entire plastic housing.

There should still be some spin left to it at the 25.5 Nm of torque. It starts getting grabby before it bottoms out, and as long as you properly swapped o-rings with the new filter, it shouldn't be super hard bottomed out to exceed that torque.

 

[NPC 20883467]

There should still be some spin left to it at the 25.5 Nm of torque. It starts getting grabby before it bottoms out, and as long as you properly swapped o-rings with the new filter, it shouldn't be super hard bottomed out to exceed that torque.

Umm... not mine. Once the O-ring is pulled in, it doesn't take but a few lbs of torque to bottom it out.

 

[Remorseless]

Umm... not mine. Once the O-ring is pulled in, it doesn't take but a few lbs of torque to bottom it out.

How hard are you turning that ratchet? I'm on my third Pentastar derivative and none of mine have been a hard bottom out like that. There's still slip on it at torque.

 

[NPC 20883467]

How hard are you turning that ratchet? I'm on my third Pentastar derivative and none of mine have been a hard bottom out like that. There's still slip on it at torque.

I've not actually measured that resistance, but I'm guessing 5-6 lbs to pull the O-ring in, and then it lets off to about 4 lb to run it the rest of the way in to bottom. If I could get my hand in there, I could do it manually.

 

[Remorseless]

I've not actually measured that resistance, but I'm guessing 5-6 lbs to pull the O-ring in, and then it lets off to about 4 lb to run it the rest of the way in to bottom. If I could get my hand in there, I could do it manually.

That's definitely hinky. I've never been able to bottom mine out by hand.

 

[NPC 20883467]

That's definitely hinky. I've never been able to bottom mine out by hand.

I'm using the mopar filter. What oil filter are you using? Maybe it's too long or too hard*, and takes more torque to crush?

*No innuendo intended, but just for the sake of not missing an opportunity..."That's what she said."

 

[Remorseless]

I'm using the mopar filter. What oil filter are you using? Maybe it's too long or too hard*, and takes more torque to crush?

*No innuendo intended, but just for the sake of not missing an opportunity..."That's what she said."

I always use the Mopar ones cause they're cheap enough. Your o-ring is in the grove like 1/4" from the top, right? Assuming yes, but dang, that's weird.

 

[John VonJeep]

That's definitely hinky. I've never been able to bottom mine out by hand.

Really? You ok?

 

[Remorseless]

Really? You ok?

THAT PICTURE WAS FOR YOUR EYES ONLY

 

[roaniecowpony]

Here's an idea....
Let's pick up a bat and start beating this dead horse!

For sure, it's a horse. Whether or not it's dead is a different question. Either way, some recreational beating is always fun.

 

[roaniecowpony]

What problems are you referring to with the dorman aluminum housing?

Dorman copied the old mopar "figure 8" design of the seal configuration between the cooler and the housing.

This is what happens to "figure 8" seals.

 

[Remorseless]

Either way, some recreational beating is always fun.

I, too, remember being a teenager

 

[roaniecowpony]

The new mopar design has a solid web between two separate seals now.

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