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MAIN BATTERY REPLACEMENT TALK - JL/JT

Flip

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That thin piece of fiber felt over the battery is a dress up part and nothing more. It serves no practical purpose.
Supposedly:

The jacket helps the battery retain heat in the winter and repel engine compartment heat in the summer. Removing the battery insulating jacket can shorten the life of the battery by almost two-thirds, especially if you live in a hot climate.

Am I worried about the jacket? Nope! I have never found it to prolong the life of a battery and it also has a tendency to attract mice. With that said, I owned a Saturn Ion, the battery was in the trunk, I did get 6 years out of a battery, no insulation cover. I'm guessing less heat helped or I just lucky Hmm...... idk?
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The Last Cowboy

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Supposedly:

The jacket helps the battery retain heat in the winter and repel engine compartment heat in the summer. Removing the battery insulating jacket can shorten the life of the battery by almost two-thirds, especially if you live in a hot climate.

Am I worried about the jacket? Nope! I have never found it to prolong the life of a battery and it also has a tendency to attract mice. With that said, I owned a Saturn Ion, the battery was in the trunk, I did get 6 years out of a battery, no insulation cover. I'm guessing less heat helped or I just lucky Hmm...... idk?
There's no way that very thin thing, with no bottom on it could possibly prolong the battery life by 66%. Someone prove me wrong. My OEM F150 battery lasted exactly 24 months. When I replaced it I got rid of that flimsy piece of felt. The replacement Super Start has been in that truck for 5 years and 6 months now. After posting this, the damn thing probably won't crank next time I jump in it. :LOL:
 

Jeffy56

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I currently have an H6 in my 2020 Rubicon. I am going to upgrade the batteries and go to an H7 for the main. I do realize my battery shield will not fit on an H7. Would anyone that did the conversion and bought a new shield (insulation) know of the OEM P/N ? They list 2
but its hard to tell which oneI have and which one I'll need. Thanks in advance.
This may work. Reputable US manufacturer.
https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010480-Battery-Insulation/dp/B000MY0MQ6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GM37RSNI3Y4R&keywords=battery+insulation+wrap&qid=1686341013&sprefix=battery+insu,aps,149&sr=8-3

Jeep Wrangler JL MAIN BATTERY REPLACEMENT TALK  - JL/JT 20231027_073120
 
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NPC 20883467

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You can add the AC Delco 94RAGM to the list. 850 CCA, 140 RC, 52 lbs... a vastly superior battery to the stock one.

It fits better than the original 650 CCA battery. The plastic clip on the positive terminal actually snapped over the top edge of the Delco battery, you know, like it was supposed to. (It was a loose, sloppy fit on the MOPAR H6 battery.)

The IBS wire was plenty long, but the battery blanket was way too small to fit the bigger battery. In the trash it went.

I ordered it from RockAuto for $159.76, (196.91 after tax & FedEx), and it arrived promptly and very well packed.

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Captain Skip

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Excellent write ups and information. Thank you all who contributed your experiences. My 2020 is just about to hit 36 months and 33k miles so I'm learning what I can about a new battery. I do plan on doing the aux battery disconnect...but that's for another thread. Anyway, looking strictly at specs, the Walmart Everstart "seems" to be the better battery. 850cca plus a 4 year replacement warranty and lower price. And with a Walmart on just about every other street corner if there's an issue then it's easier to get assistance in a warranty claim if not in the home area. From what I've learned over the years there's supposedly only two or three companies that produce all automotive batteries. It looks like Johnson Controls builds the AGM EverStart. Based on the info below, if it's the same company that makes the Optima that everyone seems to want then I would have to believe it's a decent battery.

And from : https://drivinvibin.com/2023/09/09/walmart-brand-vehicle-batteries/

"Clarios

As of May 2019, Clarios is the new name for Johnson Controls. Before the sale, the company had a relationship with numerous brands, including Walmart. Clarios continues these partnerships.

As an industry leader, one-third of all cars in the world use Clarios car batteries. The company also owns and distributes, Optima Batteries, Varta, MAC Batteries, Heliar, and many other brands.

Milwaukee, Wisconsin, serves as Clarios’s regional headquarters, with more than 5800 workers in 18 facilities. Additionally, Monterrey, Mexico, has over 3000 workers in nine facilities."
 

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Rhinebeck01

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Thanks, I'll give this a try.
Just follow the instructions closely... Do NOT remove / fool with the cables on the positive side of the Main battery.

Disconnect the bundle on the Main's neg side and separate all wires. This will give you total 12v kill... (Main & Aux).
 

rcadden

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Super helpful thread - as usual.

I have a 2021 Sahara Altitude with tow package, 2.0L ESS (no eTorque)

Do I need to worry about replacing the AUX battery, or just the main? I have no ESS bypass systems in place as I don't mind it at all.

Planning on replacing with an H7.
 
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Rhinebeck01

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Super helpful thread - as usual.

I have a 2021 Sahara Altitude with tow package, 2.0L ESS (no eTorque)

Do I need to worry about replacing the AUX battery, or just the main? I have no ESS bypass systems in place as I don't mind it at all.

Planning on replacing with an H7.
Best bet is to replace both the Main and Aux at the same time. More then likely your Aux battery is iffy/at the end of it's life cycle and if you keep it place/in use and just replace the Main, that old Aux will have a negative impact on the new Main you install.

You can run without problem with just the Main... If you wish to, just change the Main go with an H7 ....and just bypass the Aux which take less then 5 min. to do. NO, you do not need to do an Aux battery delete.. and I don't encourage you to do so.

If you are going to run with just the Main, it is best to limit the use of ESS .... another words press the ESS button or buy an adjunct that in essence does the ESS button push for you.
 

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rcadden

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@Rhinebeck01 is there a thread on replacing the AUX?

Do I even have an aux if I don't have eTorque?

What's the best ESS solution, given that I already have a JSCAN? It doesn't bother me but if it's better for my overall system to disable that's no big deal either.
 
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Rhinebeck01

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@Rhinebeck01 is there a thread on replacing the AUX?

Do I even have an aux if I don't have eTorque?

What's the best ESS solution, given that I already have a JSCAN? It doesn't bother me but if it's better for my overall system to disable that's no big deal either.
If you do not have eTorque then you definitely have an Aux battery.... unless your JL is a 392.

Read here in regard to Aux battery replacement. Do read the whole thread and not just the first few pages, etc..
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ent-the-easy-way-pull-the-fender-flare.56807/

I encourage you to just replace the Main with an H7 and bypass the Aux.. Again, you would then want to limit use of ESS..... again, limit use, but use of ESS lets say sparingly.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jumperless-aux-battery-bypass.95945/

I have been running with just the Main for years and 69,000+ miles without issue...

As for JSCAN it has no use in regard to this. The way JSCAN deals with ESS is laughable at best..
 

rcadden

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If you do not have eTorque then you definitely have an Aux battery.... unless your JL is a 392.

Read here in regard to Aux battery replacement. Do read the whole thread and not just the first few pages, etc..
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ent-the-easy-way-pull-the-fender-flare.56807/

I encourage you to just replace the Main with an H7 and bypass the Aux.. Again, you would then want to limit use of ESS..... again, limit use, but use of ESS lets say sparingly.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jumperless-aux-battery-bypass.95945/

I have been running with just the Main for years and 69,000+ miles without issue...

As for JSCAN it has no use in regard to this. The way JSCAN deals with ESS is laughable at best..
Got it - I had it backwards.

I know JSCAN doesn't do anything for ESS - was asking what the best solution is other than TAZER, basically.

Figuring the AUX battery is ~$150, so a solution to just eliminate the need for it entirely is probably about the same?

Is ESS the only thing that uses the Aux battery?
 
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Rhinebeck01

Rhinebeck01

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Got it - I had it backwards.

I know JSCAN doesn't do anything for ESS - was asking what the best solution is other than TAZER, basically.

Figuring the AUX battery is ~$150, so a solution to just eliminate the need for it entirely is probably about the same?

Is ESS the only thing that uses the Aux battery?

In regard to an adjunct to in essence do the ESS button push for you...
I would not install "auto start/stop eliminator" offering if you gave it to me for free..

A handful of forum members have installed and soon regretted doing so. A couple have not had issues with this offering yet apparently.

Yes, the original SmartStopStart brand offering is very good, not known to hiccup and is a a terrific add to the JL. Yes, it can be had for $100..... When you are done with the unit eventually, you can easily resell it and recoop most of the $ you spent for it.

Read here:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/auto-start-stop-for-2024.117821/post-2464781
 

rcadden

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In regard to an adjunct to in essence do the ESS button push for you...
I would not install "auto start/stop eliminator" offering if you gave it to me for free..

A handful of forum members have installed and soon regretted doing so. A couple have not had issues with this offering yet apparently.

Yes, the original SmartStopStart brand offering is very good, not known to hiccup and is a a terrific add to the JL. Yes, it can be had for $100..... When you are done with the unit eventually, you can easily resell it and recoop most of the $ you spent for it.

Read here:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/auto-start-stop-for-2024.117821/post-2464781
Thanks. I knew there was one to get and one to avoid, couldn't remember which.

Got the Duralast H7 from Autozone tonight. Went in fine (I didn't bother with the blanket, but kept it in case it serves a purpose?) HOWEVER as someone else noted, the negative battery post is *just* a little shorter than the OEM battery. As you tighten, it slips up. We solved by taking a battery post cleaner to the new post to rough it up a bit, and a wire brush to the inside of the cable assembly, to give them both something to grip. Was able to tighten nicely after that. Autozone was the only place open tonight (and I despise Walmart) so I'm happy.

I have questions about the aux situation but will move that to the appropriate thread. Appreciate the assistance and quick responses, @Rhinebeck01
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