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Exact Center Stabilizer

Exact Center

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John, can I send my uninstalled stabilizer to you guys for a higher pressure one? I haven’t found out for sure but I imagine it’s the #75.
Yes you can and your unit came from Roadmaster it is 66 lbs, You want the 110lb EC for any JL that is riding on anything 35's and smaller. Just about all that drive the road. (correction we said 48"s instead of 35's and down)
Email [email protected] if you have it email a copy of your purchase docs. You qualify for a free upgrade. Your choice 110lbs or 140lbs, get 110lbs you will never regret it. 140 is being created for the real big mods. We or anyone can go bigger as Roadmaster will custom fill a (100mm the JL size) unit with any charge you want 110lbs to 500lbs, maybe even more. I have done 330 lbs on a 45000 lb RV. On the RV you could steer with one finger, but no side wind could move it and for sure a blowout would not turn wheels held with 330 lbs in two directions.
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Exact Center

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I tried a similar system on my motorhome. Hated it. In a perfect world the wheel would be straight but you never drive with your wheels straight so you’re always fighting that mechanism. Pay attention when you’re driving how many times you really have the wheel straight. Driving through the wind , if theres a crown of the road felt like I was not only fighting the road but also the pressure of steering stabilizer fighting against me.
Just my opinion.
Was it a Safety Plus coil spring unit? They have no trimming ability. TruCenter by BlueOx I invented did have the ability to trim, but you are mistaken near 99% of driving is done in 1/4" center of the tie rod. We have videos with a tape measure on the tie rod and the steering wheel and road at the same time. You cannot turn the wheel, move the tie rod 1/4" on a 40000 lb RV at any speed over 60mph if you did you would be in a ditch. Remember tie-rod moves about 1/15 of what the steering wheel does.
I have well over 22 years on this issue. My first patents were then for Tru-Center by Blue Ox. Users loved it. It changes how you feel at the end of a day driving it is very simple EC holds at the center and pushes back to center and when Roadmaster is ready on RV's they will offer the ability to dynamically change the center while driving at any speed. With the ability two things improve, the install centering is a 2-second button push, no climbing under no wrenches just a button, second thing if you are going from Iowa to points far West and a side wind is pushing against your coach you simply hold where needed and do the 2-second push and the Exact Center moves to the place you are holding and then like magic it holds the wind you can relax. I have two patents just for ways to dynamically center steering on anything. It does not fight you can hold for you. Still, it is simple and easy. Bad products or poor products should never be used as examples for all products. There are 20-30 different stabilizers, none, not even one can do what Exact Center can. Their failure is proof we all need open mines, there are real answers for just about every problem, and like I have said before the 10.5 million US patents 90 percent or more are from working Joe's like me. I have about 25 to 30 since 1978. Everyone was to solve a problem. On steering patents for centering and return to center in the whole world 7.5 billion people I own all the patents, except one, Blue Ox tried to patent around me to avoid license fees, theirs did not work. The Exact Center device is the simplest idea that was never thought of, but it is here finally.
The RV unit Roadmaster will sell before long will have the ability to adjust the center with a two-second push of a button It does work and makes life in a big RV so much better You do have your wheels straight ahead most of the time. A 2" steering wheel turn is an i/8" tie rod movement on a 15:1 gearbox. We have videos of the steering wheel and the tie rod synchronized highway. At 70 mph a 1/8" tie rod movement will change lanes. a 1/2" tie rod movement can only be done at 15-20 mph and can be what is needed to make a full left turn from a two lane road to another two-lane road. Many people see their steering wheel move 2 inches and think they have a problem, they might and maybe not. That 2" on the steering wheel with that 15:1 box is 1/8" at tierod, something very hard to see, however with rubber grommets slight bolt hole elongation that 1/8" can disappear and move the wheel zero inches and may still be OK. I am an ironworker inventor business owner. My knowledge about steering does not have a lot of depth, but this is all so simple, just like Exact Center, simple things can be fixed by simple things. The Amish are a perfect example of simple ways to fix stuff. Let's all give people with ideas a chance to fix things. We all win when we do.
 

No IFS

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In my opinion. Anything hooked to the steering gear should be neutral. It shouldn’t push or pull. That mechanical device has no way to account for variations in the road. I’ve driven two hours with my wheel cocked halfway to the left. Pushing against that stabilizer the whole time. A good quality steering stabilizer that does not push or pull is all you need on a vehicle that is set up correctly. A steering stabilizer in theory should not even be needed it’s only there to absorb large impacts off road and help Stabilize certain independent suspensions.. If you need more than the stock steering stabilizer its a band aid you should look elsewhere to diagnose your real problems. In my case additional caster solved all my problems. I put the stock steering stabilizer on added Castor and drove like a dream
 

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In my opinion. Anything hooked to the steering gear should be neutral. It shouldn’t push or pull. That mechanical device has no way to account for variations in the road. I’ve driven two hours with my wheel cocked halfway to the left. Pushing against that stabilizer the whole time. A good quality steering stabilizer that does not push or pull is all you need on a vehicle that is set up correctly. A steering stabilizer in theory should not even be needed it’s only there to absorb large impacts off road and help Stabilize certain independent suspensions.. If you need more than the stock steering stabilizer its a band aid you should look elsewhere to diagnose your real problems. In my case additional caster solved all my problems. I put the stock steering stabilizer on added Castor and drove like a dream
Thanks for input
 

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In my opinion. Anything hooked to the steering gear should be neutral. It shouldn’t push or pull. That mechanical device has no way to account for variations in the road. I’ve driven two hours with my wheel cocked halfway to the left. Pushing against that stabilizer the whole time. A good quality steering stabilizer that does not push or pull is all you need on a vehicle that is set up correctly. A steering stabilizer in theory should not even be needed it’s only there to absorb large impacts off road and help Stabilize certain independent suspensions.. If you need more than the stock steering stabilizer its a band aid you should look elsewhere to diagnose your real problems. In my case additional caster solved all my problems. I put the stock steering stabilizer on added Castor and drove like a dream
OK, I need to know? what motorhome and what size and year. What brand stabilizer and what model, You are doing a review so who's product is this?
 

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I tried a similar system on my motorhome. Hated it. In a perfect world the wheel would be straight but you never drive with your wheels straight so you’re always fighting that mechanism. Pay attention when you’re driving how many times you really have the wheel straight. Driving through the wind , if theres a crown of the road felt like I was not only fighting the road but also the pressure of steering stabilizer fighting against me.
Just my opinion.
@Jeep&dogs and @Roky What are your thoughts on this? Specifically how does your jeep steering react/feel due to the crown of the road? For me, with the adjustable Falcon stabilizer, I make the most steering corrections on back country roads that have a severe crown.

@Jeep&dogs Have you decided on which Exact Center pressure you are going to try next?
 

No IFS

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Like I said it’s my opinion. I’m still allowed to have an opinion. worked at alignment shop for almost a decade and an off-road shop for 15 years I have a little background. have no steering issues on my own vehicles. Wish everybody the same.
 

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@Jeep&dogs and @Roky What are your thoughts on this? Specifically how does your jeep steering react/feel due to the crown of the road? For me, with the adjustable Falcon stabilizer, I make the most steering corrections on back country roads that have a severe crown.

@Jeep&dogs Have you decided on which Exact Center pressure you are going to try next?
IMO , there’s no device out there including this one, that’s gonna defeat the crown in the road. With my fox I had to hold the wheel cocked slightly to combat it. With the EC you correct less often but you do correct.

I explained this to John about the higher pressure units like I’m running now, if you have to hold the steering wheel off center for any length of time, like in a long sweeping curve or even on a off camber two track trail, etc… you’ll feel it, and possibly get fatigued.

I recommend that you get the 75 or 110, if you’re a 90 percent DD. Don’t think that more is better, it is in certain situations like 37s and bigger tires, but you should get the right EC for your particular needs.

This isn’t a silver bullet here, not a miracle worker, but for me the pros out weigh the cons by a long shot, and that’s why I choose to run it.
 

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IMO , there’s no device out there including this one, that’s gonna defeat the crown in the road. With my fox I had to hold the wheel cocked slightly to combat it. With the EC you correct less often but you do correct.

I explained this to John about the higher pressure units like I’m running now, if you have to hold the steering wheel off center for any length of time, like in a long sweeping curve or even on a off camber two track trail, etc… you’ll feel it, and possibly get fatigued.

I recommend that you get the 75 or 110, if you’re a 90 percent DD. Don’t think that more is better, it is in certain situations like 37s and bigger tires, but you should get the right EC for your particular needs.

This isn’t a silver bullet here, not a miracle worker, but for me the pros out weigh the cons by a long shot, and that’s why I choose to run it.
Thanks for the response. I will probably go ahead and order the 110 and can always trade up to the 130.
 

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Read I say stops
It will not let it start
That is not a fix
What I am trying to say is if someone has death wobble because of a lose or damage component, that component will still be damaged even if the product "stops" it.
IMO , there’s no device out there including this one, that’s gonna defeat the crown in the road. With my fox I had to hold the wheel cocked slightly to combat it. With the EC you correct less often but you do correct.

I explained this to John about the higher pressure units like I’m running now, if you have to hold the steering wheel off center for any length of time, like in a long sweeping curve or even on a off camber two track trail, etc… you’ll feel it, and possibly get fatigued.

I recommend that you get the 75 or 110, if you’re a 90 percent DD. Don’t think that more is better, it is in certain situations like 37s and bigger tires, but you should get the right EC for your particular needs.

This isn’t a silver bullet here, not a miracle worker, but for me the pros out weigh the cons by a long shot, and that’s why I choose to run it.
does that mean you still prefer it to your neutral fox stabilizer you had previously?
 
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Roky

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Jeep&dogs

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I have one of the lighter units and I haven’t noticed any push back or resistance from it. I am looking to most likely run the 110. For me the biggest advantage has been with the Fox I had basically no wheel return with the EC I do. I think it’s possible to have too much pressure on this . I do live in the country so most roads have a high crown. I would second Rocky’s statement that you still correct for it but not nearly as much.
 

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Got mine in the mail today / bracket will be here tomorrow
Most likely will not have time to install them until sometime next week
Can't wait to get it installed
 

KNN

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What I am trying to say is if someone has death wobble because of a lose or damage component, that component will still be damaged even if the product "stops" it.
I sent Tony at piwcorp an order for a 110# purely off @Roky 's recommendation and threads like these. The other thread is extremely difficult to follow but I read through it.

@RubiRob I felt the same way but at this point I've replaced almost everything under there and still have a shimmy/*bump steer that's driving me crazy.
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