Electrical issues

[Sumner406]

Honestly I'm torn between keeping it or just getting rid of it. My wife is wanting a new JL so we are going that route anyway regardless of the 2018 JLU outcome. Does anyone know if this was just the 2018 or has it happened across all years of the JL? I have always had jeeps and have always loved them but this is ridiculous. I might start at the can-bus or the big fuses in the engine bay. Any and all suggestions are welcome and extremely appreciated!

Sponsored

 

[Shellbird01]

I’m struggling to justify another JL after this experience, just my humble opinion.

I’ve replaced the Can-bus, high fuses, main batt and “bypassed” the Ess Batt, still having the issue. Per my post this am. FYI

 

[Sumner406]

I’m struggling to justify another JL after this experience, just my humble opinion.

I’ve replaced the Can-bus, high fuses, main batt and “bypassed” the Ess Batt, still having the issue. Per my post this am. FYI

You would think they would figure something out with as many issues as are out there. I agree, I am about done with these as well.

 

[Bob Burd]

I’m struggling to justify another JL after this experience, just my humble opinion.

I’ve replaced the Can-bus, high fuses, main batt and “bypassed” the Ess Batt, still having the issue. Per my post this am. FYI

Not sure what you mean by replaced Can-bus. It's a distributed high-speed network and would be a whole lot of wires and modules. Perhaps you meant the box behind the glove box where the various modules plug in? In any case, most of these issues folks are seeing are likely resulting from a flaky connection somewhere on the bus. If you look at the op's last post, there's a good clue that seems everyone after him ignored. He reset connections and added dielectric grease to increase the contacts, and last he said it seemed to have fixed his issue. There are other connectors behind the passenger side inner fender liner next to the engine. These can get flaky as well. Especially if you've driven without the fender liners (bad idea). Those connectors might be inspected, cleaned, and greased as well. Another possibility is that you have an intermittent short where wires are
stretched and are losing their insulating sheathing. Other threads here have reported finding such issues. Can-bus issues like these can be very difficult to debug. They cause noise on the bus that can be interpreted as all sorts of false issues. In addition to lights on the dash for various systems, they can cut your power steering, keep you from shifting gears and worse, though usually it's just headaches with the various lights on the dash. Most service folks are ill-equipped to fix these issues.

fwiw, I've got 140,000mi on mine and have had these issues for more than a year. So far I've been ignoring then as they haven't caused any driveability issues, but they're becoming more frequent. I've just ordered some dielectric grease and am going to make a concerted effort to clean the main connection points.

 

[Shellbird01]

Replaced this, I’ve also heard it called a star connector.

The connections are solid but did not apply any grease. I’ve not run without fender liners. As the alternator fix didn’t work for sumner409 I believe it’s an electrical connection, short or possibly programming (as it started after a Steering TSB update / flash).

Im interested to see what your results are please keep us posted and thank you for you’re response.

 

[Shellbird01]

I’m struggling to justify another JL after this experience, just my humble opinion.

I’ve replaced the Can-bus, high fuses, main batt and “bypassed” the Ess Batt, still having the issue. Per my post this am. FYI

Forgot to mention I changed the IBS as well.

 

[Sumner406]

Thanks @Bob Burd for the explanation and advice!. I was under the impression it was just the connector piece. This does make sense. I will work on the connection points as well.

 

[traviswalker007]

Hey guys,
Im getting this code U0010 then throwing a auto start stop needs service light and then 2 min later getting a crank position sensor circ interm P0339. I replaced the crankshaft sensor and reset all codes, worked for about 6 hrs then started to spit and sputter and jerk, I noticed the shifting was hard as well, then the auto stop needs service light comes on then the check engine light? any ideas or should i drop it off at dealer its got 51,000 miles.

 

[Bob Burd]

Sounds like a dealer visit is best in this case...

 

[Shellbird01]

Update: the dash went Berserk again tonight, lost power steering and I was able to get it home in limp mode. While it sat in the driveway running I opened the glove box and shook the plugs to the star connector and the errors stopped flashing… maybe dielectric is the trick? In the meantime I’ll try shaking the connections to see if it’s the fix.

 

[Shellbird01]

FYI -I was able to replicate again on the weekend, pressing the connections into the star connector stopped the dash warnings. I did have to stop and restart to get it out of limp mode.

Anyone else with progress?

 

[zeeg]

All those JK owners are laughing at us right now with Jeep's poor attempts at modernization..

This explains why the Toyota's interior look like they're from the 90s

I'm planning to install a additional battery via a kit, which the consensus is itll provide some safety around it if it does happen again. Gonna look at the wiring harness everyones talking about in this thread as well, but I haven't driven mine much lately and still have to resolve all of the other warning indicators that are still present.

 

[JasonBWaller]

I am new to the forum and I have a 2018 JL that has COMPLETELY frustrated me with everyone of the issues y'all are describing and more! It has been in our local dealer's hands for nearly three weeks and I just picked it up (as they said "they had started it 50 to 60 times and it did not do anything that I described..." - although they have several videos of doing it exactly as described).

I drove it home and got literally two blocks from my home and it went berserk again with the power steering going haywire. UGH!

Does @JeepCares know anything?

 

[Shellbird01]

Hey JBW, the white star connector is behind the glove box as shown, when the issue happens I reach over and push the 1st 3 green connectors, the alarms stop, stopping & restarting resets the power steering / takes it out of limp mode.

Some have been applying dielectric grease to the connectors. I assume it keeps the plugs seated but I don’t like that isn’t conductive. I feel like there should be a better fix but I’m probably just being stubborn.

 

[redsyphon]

Hey JBW, the white star connector is behind the glove box as shown, when the issue happens I reach over and push the 1st 3 green connectors, the alarms stop, stopping & restarting resets the power steering / takes it out of limp mode.

Some have been applying dielectric grease to the connectors. I assume it keeps the plugs seated but I don’t like that isn’t conductive. I feel like there should be a better fix but I’m probably just being stubborn.

Dielectric grease will help prevent small particulates (i.e. dirt, dust, salt, etc.) and liquid intrusion in the connectors.

The connector will still have plenty of contact for conducting electricity.

It's not a bad thing to have in a repair kit, and generally a decent thing to put into a plug exposed to the elements if you're already performing maintenance on it, etc.

Sponsored