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Wapiti

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Thought I fixed this problem in my 2019 by pushing the white plugs all the way into the green CAN BUS block, but that only lasted a week. Per this thread and others, I bought part 2272352-5 off E-bay- how do you remove the bad one? Seems like something I probably shouldn't caveman off of the metal bar underneath, but I can't figure out a gentle way to remove it...
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Tilly420

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Mine ended up being fixed by replacing the power steering pump. Been 2 months no issues since… knock on wood
 

Shellbird01

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Thought I fixed this problem in my 2019 by pushing the white plugs all the way into the green CAN BUS block, but that only lasted a week. Per this thread and others, I bought part 2272352-5 off E-bay- how do you remove the bad one? Seems like something I probably shouldn't caveman off of the metal bar underneath, but I can't figure out a gentle way to remove it...
Use a tiny flat screw driver or pick, push back the tab on each white plug while pulling easily. A bit tricky. If your pulling hard the tab isn’t depressed enough.
 

Quicker1085

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The CANBUS block itself just slides into a metal plate with some tabs on the bottom side of it. I swapped out all of the plugs first and then removed the old one and put the new one in it’s place that way I didn’t screw up any of the plugs. It’s not too hard and mine has been good since replacing it back in April.
 

Bob Burd

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When the new one arrives, you'll see which way it slides off (to the right, I think). Cavemanning it won't do any more than break a few plastic tabs on the part you're replacing anyway.
 

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Wapiti

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Sooo...after replacing the star connector the problem came back right away, but not as bad- if that makes sense. I bit the bullet and took it to the dealer. They cleared all 129 codes, road tested it, and still had the problem recur, specifically noting that the power steering went away. Right, could have guessed that would happen. Here's where it gets interesting- they "made sure all star connectors were fully seated" (fair enough, check the work), and "per diag updated the ESP". They road tested it the next morning and had no issues and no codes. Are they saying that there has to be some kind of "flash" to the system to actually make the problem go away after installing the new star connector? I haven't heard of that in the multiple threads out there on this problem (both service advisors I talked to where well aware of the whole service shifter thing), but I'm wondering if "per diag" means in reference to the TSB out there that- as far as we can see- only lists the various star connector part numbers. Any thoughts?
 

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The star connector is a passive device - comprised of only capacitors, resistors and traces (wires). I see no way for any "flash" to affect it's operation. Correctly seating the connectors, however, could.
 

Tilly420

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Sooo...after replacing the star connector the problem came back right away, but not as bad- if that makes sense. I bit the bullet and took it to the dealer. They cleared all 129 codes, road tested it, and still had the problem recur, specifically noting that the power steering went away. Right, could have guessed that would happen. Here's where it gets interesting- they "made sure all star connectors were fully seated" (fair enough, check the work), and "per diag updated the ESP". They road tested it the next morning and had no issues and no codes. Are they saying that there has to be some kind of "flash" to the system to actually make the problem go away after installing the new star connector? I haven't heard of that in the multiple threads out there on this problem (both service advisors I talked to where well aware of the whole service shifter thing), but I'm wondering if "per diag" means in reference to the TSB out there that- as far as we can see- only lists the various star connector part numbers. Any thoughts?
Mine was resolved by replacing the power steering pump, I had replaced the star connector twice over 18 months prior to that. The tech measured the voltage across each pin of the connector 1 by 1 and it was stupid high for the PSP. If he disconnected the PSP and cleared codes it wouldn't repeat, but as soon as hed plug the PSP back in it would immediately act up.
 

Shellbird01

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Mine was resolved by replacing the power steering pump, I had replaced the star connector twice over 18 months prior to that. The tech measured the voltage across each pin of the connector 1 by 1 and it was stupid high for the PSP. If he disconnected the PSP and cleared codes it wouldn't repeat, but as soon as hed plug the PSP back in it would immediately act up.
What’s normal voltage?
 

Bob Burd

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CAN+ switches between 2.5 and 3.5V.
CAN - switches between 2.5 and 1.5V.
Typical CAN+ is between 2.6 and 3V.
Typical CAN- is between 2.0 and 2.4V.
 

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Badkarma

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Wife went to start the Jeep this morning. She said “brake pedal wouldn’t budge” and it made a clicking noise.
I came home and assumed it was a dead battery and used the noco to jump the battery. It started right up. After the fact I checked the engine codes and found the U0100 code several times. Haven’t had an issue since the jump. I also checked the can-bus and pushed everything down. Nothing jumped at me as needing re-seating though.
 
 







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