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Backup Lights

TJ2018

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IronScott

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@IndustrialAction

Forgot to ask.. Another forum member is saying that running a wire through the passenger side frame rail of a 4dr. JL is a major issue.(for him) Did you have any issues? I doubt you did.

How about telling of your wire run in frame rail experience..

I know running a wire through the 2dr passenger side frame rail is easy easy.


.
LOL. I know that was directed at me. :devil:
 
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nerubi

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I opted to go with 4500lm (ea) side-shooters mounted in place of the carriage bolts on the rear bumper. I was concerned that the passenger side one would interfere with the tailgate but they never come close to one another. Ran the positive through the frame rail, out past the rear bump-stop and up over the muffler heat shield. The grounds are run separately to screws under the bumper on either side of the hitch. As I was thinking through the wiring I decided not to wire them in to the back-up lights. I don't need them coming on every time I'm in reverse, just certain situations so I opted to just go with Aux 4.

For those of you JUST going to an Aux, you do not need a diode. If you feel safer running one, go for it, but it isn't necessary. If you do go with one, I would recommend not using those huge $25 ones. A 15 amp diode costs about $1. I can show anyone how to solder it in if anyone needs help. It couldn't be easier. I also have a bag of them and would be happy to mail one out in an envelope if someone needed one.

9867FD8D-58D5-41BA-BAE7-BA3AE9549EC5.jpeg
Hey that's exactly what I did down to the Pittsburgh creeper. I had a feeling someone was watching me when I did it.
 

nerubi

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@IndustrialAction

Forgot to ask.. Another forum member is saying that running a wire through the passenger side frame rail of a 4dr. JL is a major issue.(for him) Did you have any issues? I doubt you did.

How about telling of your wire run in frame rail experience..

I know running a wire through the 2dr passenger side frame rail is easy easy.


.
Yep, it was easy running thru the frame on my 2 door. Only 12 hours. Easy peasy.
 

IronScott

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Installed my Rigid Ignite lights over the weekend. It wasn't difficult but it took me a few hours because I wanted to make sure I did everything correct and clean.

I used 16 gauge wire inserted through braided sleeving (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GM1PK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for almost every bit of wire. The sleeve makes a nice, protected wire, but it's sort of a pain to get on a long length of wire - at least for a tighter-fitting sleeve.

I decided to run the wire from the aux connection to the rear on top of the frame rail next to the stock wiring and zip tied my wire to the stock wire in several places. This took just a few minutes and was much easier for me than trying to fish the wire through the frame. If Jeep is ok with the wire run, then I certainly am. With the protective sleeve the entire length of my wire I'm totally happy with my install. It's clean and protected.

Used two diodes as shown in some of the other posts and connected them inside the passenger light compartment. Plenty of room to work in there and makes for a weatherproof set of connections.

The only problem I had was trying to connect to the backup light. I initially tried to connect to the bundle of wires inside the brake light compartment. Seemed logical but apparently the orange/white wire on that bundle isn't the same as the orange/white down at the trailer wire bundle. I wanted to do as much inside the protected area as possible but didn't want to screw up anything, so I just ran a wire down to the trailer bundle and spliced in there.

Works great when using aux button or just in reverse. Only problem is my bike rack blocks one of the lights but I'm going to leave them as-is for the time being. Very nice lights.

Oh, one other thing. The Rigid lights are small, which I like, but the wire they come with is very small - 22 gauge or smaller. I wish it was at least 18 or 16 to be easier to work with.
 

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Rhinebeck01

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Not sure where to post this, thread wise but this stuff is great to have on hand when you are doing wiring... actually comes in real handy for other stuff also.

I use it lots on trailer wiring and have used it on wiring I have done on the JL.

No, do not use it to replace heat shrink, but do use in conjunction with it when.if necessary. Thus stuff applied in a few light coats works very well and is very durable.

I use it on electrical but just yesterday, used it to mend up the engine compartment sound proofing hood liner. Two small areas on the sides of the liner had separated and this stuff sealed it up really well and even matched in color.

Anyway, this stuff sure can come in handy.. One bottle will last you ages.... 8-)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPAN2K/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

71pasIUrnfL._SL1500_.jpg
 

viper88

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Well i finally got around to starting this project. Removed the reflectors and had to do a little hacking but everything fits nicely.
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VERY nice job. How did everything turn out? Do you have any pictures with lights in and on? Can you post pictures with the lights on and the view from your back-up screen?

It looks like Rigid LED lights? Did you remove the face plate off the Rigid lights and drill or mill a mounting hole the same size as the white LED light after removing the face plate?

What are the part numbers and cost for the lights and reflectors? Any additional parts?

Any issues with heat from the LEDs or water from the elements?

Thanks.
 
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AnthemAVM

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I'm not sure a dropped trailer hitch would have as much of an impact as your suggesting. Reason being is that little flood light shines a very wide beam spread. I'll try and block it with something a kin to a dropped hitch and shoot a picture of the difference.
@jeepe were you able to post up a photo at night?
 

SeanD

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It's probably not easy to tell, but the light sits higher than (meaning there is more clearance from ground to the light than) the exhaust. Although the exhaust may be more in line with the wheels so there's that. Its also robust (made out of metal) so it probably can take a bit of a beating (there's no joint, it sits very flat against the metal its attached too).

I will take a picture tonight of the light it produces from both outside and the view on the display inside.
@Jeeper were you able to post any pictures of the light effects? I may have missed the post so apologies if so. I really like this solution so just wanted to see how the light works/looks both outside and on the display. Thanks!
 

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viper88

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Well i finally got around to starting this project. Removed the reflectors and had to do a little hacking but everything fits nicely.
32281513627_e8686fbfa7_m.jpg

32281515947_0089e49d29_m.jpg

32281515427_c8089a771b_m.jpg
Anyone have the part numbers for the rear bumper reflectors for a regular JLR?
 

Rhinebeck01

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@viper88

Geez, you got your answer in less then 2 mins. :giggle:

No, no back side pic...
 

viper88

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@viper88

Geez, you got your answer in less then 2 mins. :giggle:

No, no back side pic...
Actually you got me the part numbers in less then 30 seconds. lol. I will order a set this morning. I am assuming the flush mount Rigid back up lights are going to be easier to install since all that needs to be removed will the mounting cover.

These lights…
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rgd-20641
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