Backup Lights

[LS7]

Hopefully these pics will clarify what I’m asking and where my confusion is. Credit @Bilymac as these are his original pics that I marked up for clarification. I understand the theory of a diode but using two is confusing. I’ve also done a lot of reading on similar installs on JKs and people use relays instead of diodes or in addition to diodes. It’s all a bit confusing.

First diode, presumably from aux switch or some other cabin switch:

Second diode - unclear what each of these are to me:

The “white out” is not needed. I assume it reconnects to the 7-pin and would light up trailer backups if the aux switch was turned on. Just tap into the 7-pin w/o wire, don’t cut it and forget about the white out.

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[IronScott]

The “white out” is not needed. I assume it reconnects to the 7-pin and would light up trailer backups if the aux switch was turned on. Just tap into the 7-pin w/o wire, don’t cut it and forget about the white out.

Perfect. Thanks a lot.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Just want to point out that it is not necessary or mandated lets say in regard to this type of install, to be going into the tail light housing and messing around there.

Sure you can place the diodes there but again not mandatory.

Actually, to me, going there.. complicates a very simple install.

 

[LS7]

Just want to point out that it is not necessary or mandated lets say in regard to this type of install, to be going into the tail light housing and messing around there.

Sure you can place the diodes there but again not mandatory.

Actually, to me, going there.. complicates a very simple install.

Actually, I disagree. Making the connections behind the tail light provides easy access to the 7-pin harness, keeps connections to this harness away from weather/road grime exposure and provides a protected area to mount the diodes. Thanks to @Bilymac for the idea.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

@LS7

I did not say there was not a valid reason(s) to install in the tail light housing area.. I merely pointed out that there are other ways to do the install and all these ways should be taken into consideration.

Example. the diode install in regard to the engine department, Aux connection can be done right in the engine compartment... yes, up high and protected.

So, again, a few ways to do the install... just keep this in mind.

Yes, I do think the install @Bilymac did, was well done.

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[Bilymac]

The “white out” is not needed. I assume it reconnects to the 7-pin and would light up trailer backups if the aux switch was turned on. Just tap into the 7-pin w/o wire, don’t cut it and forget about the white out.

Correct....the "White Out" reconnects the W/O wire for the 7 pin. I just chose to cut it, vs. tap into it.

Several different theories, several ways to accomplish the task, this was the way I chose.

 

[Firemadz]

Any word on this? I'm trying to figure out new back-up lights and I think this solution would be perfect!

I agree. I was interested in such a product. Anyone know if it’s in the works?

 

[Firemadz]

Here is what I did. Looks factory to me. Super bright! No low hanging issues as with other lights. 1260 lumens each!

How did you do the wiring? Are there instructions with the kit? If not, can you provide details?

Thanks?

 

[vonbek]

Here is what I did. Looks factory to me. Super bright! No low hanging issues as with other lights. 1260 lumens each!

Do you not have parking sensors? Mine are right there where you put the light. I do love the look though

 

[Badweissenbier]

I did like one member and mounted the small KC leds on the spare carrier shining out through the spokes. Like night and day, literally. Very happy with the results.

 

[IronScott]

Quick question. If I run a wire from the engine bay to the rear, would wire loom only need to be around exposed areas and where the wire might get stressed against metal? This seems obvious to me but want confirmation. I figure fishing wire through the frame rail is going to be challenging without extra material.

My diodes arrived today and the lights and wire should be here tomorrow. Excited to work on this mod. This thread has been a huge help and inspiration.

 

[LS7]

Quick question. If I run a wire from the engine bay to the rear, would wire loom only need to be around exposed areas and where the wire might get stressed against metal? This seems obvious to me but want confirmation. I figure fishing wire through the frame rail is going to be challenging without extra material.

My diodes arrived today and the lights and wire should be here tomorrow. Excited to work on this mod. This thread has been a huge help and inspiration.

I tied into the Aux switch wire located behind the glove box, ran the wire behind the plastic side paneling to the taillight, fasting the wire to an existing wire bundle with plastic ties, and didn’t use any of the wire loom I had purchased.

 

[IronScott]

I tied into the Aux switch wire located behind the glove box, ran the wire behind the plastic side paneling to the taillight, fasting the wire to an existing wire bundle with plastic ties, and didn’t use any of the wire loom I had purchased.

Thanks. Was it a huge pain to run it down the side paneling? I’m dreading running the wire from front to back. Not too worried about the rest.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

I tied into the Aux switch wire located behind the glove box, ran the wire behind the plastic side paneling to the taillight, fasting the wire to an existing wire bundle with plastic ties, and didn’t use any of the wire loom I had purchased.

@LS7

For sure one way to do it.

To me though..... it is far easier .... far less time consuming ...... and no risk at damaging panels/clips if you just go ahead and run the wire through the frame rail from the engine compartment.

Guys ... novices, that go the panel removal route, more often then not, damage panels/clips.

You can run a wire through the passenger side frame rail from engine compartment to rear bumper in 10 mins lets say. No way is there a chance of damaging anything.

Anyway, there are a lot of ways to so such an install.... installer's ...pick the path that suits you..

.

 

[LS7]

Thanks. Was it a huge pain to run it down the side paneling? I’m dreading running the wire from front to back. Not too worried about the rest.

I watched this video before attempting to remove the panels: . I wasn’t having much luck threading a wire through the frame. Removing the panels took more than 10 minutes, but I didn’t break any clips. For me, this was the better option. I tend to suffer from OCD at times, and I just preferred to route the new wire along the pathway of the factory wiring.

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