0w20 more engine wear?

[Jmos4]

Hi,

I have often wondered if going to 0w40 which is what is called for in the 6.4 and 6.2 Hemi's would be a benefit as far as wear is concerned, hadn't considered 5w20 but neat topic

Regards,
Jim

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[cyked]

IMO weight is less important as to whether you are running AMSOIL or not. /s

 

[Heimkehr]

Tangentially, both of our Hondas (2010 & 2019) have a single factory oil specification of 0W-20. It's honey-colored water, IMO, but neither vehicle has ever required topping-off between oil changes, nor have the Blackstone used oil analysis reports ever mentioned anything adverse.

More to the point, cold winters aren't unknown to us here, so I take a bit of comfort knowing that the vehicles' 51R batteries (the only ones that fit, and with just 500CCAs) won't have to work very hard.

The Jeep's 2.0T is fed 5W-30 API SP synthetic. Like the Hondas, this is the sole oil specification for the vehicle with that particular engine.

Anyone running Rotella 5W40? Wish it came in a 5 qt jug.

That's the winter weight oil specification for one of my motorcycles, for use only when the mercury doesn't rise above 50°F. It's sold in gallon and 2.5 gallon jugs at Advance Auto and elsewhere.

 

[azwjowner]

Tangentially, both of our Hondas (2010 & 2019) have a single factory oil specification of 0W-20. It's honey-colored water, IMO, but neither vehicle has ever required topping-off between oil changes, nor have the Blackstone used oil analysis reports ever mentioned anything adverse.

Your observation is why I tend to ignore these threads, because they are always premised on some distrust of the oil weight itself, as if it's so thin that it's inherently problematic. But Honda and Toyota engines run for hundreds of thousands of miles using 0W-20. The oil weight isn't a problem. It can work just fine. If my Jeep's engine blows up at 150k, the problem was never the oil weight, it's Jeep's poor engineering. Thus, I will run the specified weight and if I have problems, all the blame belongs on Jeep, not the oil.

 

[chevymitchell]

Your observation is why I tend to ignore these threads, because they are always premised on some distrust of the oil weight itself, as if it's so thin that it's inherently problematic. But Honda and Toyota engines run for hundreds of thousands of miles using 0W-20. The oil weight isn't a problem. It can work just fine. If my Jeep's engine blows up at 150k, the problem was never the oil weight, it's Jeep's poor engineering. Thus, I will run the specified weight and if I have problems, all the blame belongs on Jeep, not the oil.

They’ve produced 6 million pentastars as of last year. I think it’s just a gamble on mass production failures. Nothing wrong with the engine or oil. You make it to 150k miles, then it’s lived it’s expected life and then some. Everything has a TBO time. If you maintain it right, then you’ll make it there. Some will experience engine failures, but that’s to be expected.

 

[chevymitchell]

Only one person has mentioned AMSOIL.

I’m so proud of us.

?

 

[roaniecowpony]

Your observation is why I tend to ignore these threads, because they are always premised on some distrust of the oil weight itself, as if it's so thin that it's inherently problematic. But Honda and Toyota engines run for hundreds of thousands of miles using 0W-20. The oil weight isn't a problem. It can work just fine. If my Jeep's engine blows up at 150k, the problem was never the oil weight, it's Jeep's poor engineering. Thus, I will run the specified weight and if I have problems, all the blame belongs on Jeep, not the oil.

Just a point about engineering; the fluid specs are a part of the "engineering".

 

[chevymitchell]

@Tncdrew

Aw, man... I was just going to say I'll be at Oktoberfest this year in Munich before you deleted your post. Lol I thought it was funny.

 

[chevymitchell]

Just a point about engineering; the fluid specs are a part of the "engineering".

Absolutely. Everything internal is designed around the intended lubricant. The best chance the engine has with wear on start-up is the thinner oil. Of course, one draw back to the 3.6 is there is no check valve at the filter, but there's aftermarket goodies for that. That and this thing makes 80+psi of oil pressure when needed.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

Only one person has mentioned AMSOIL.

I’m so proud of us.

?

Time to rain AMSOIL Oil on our parade.!! ?

AMSOIL is the best !!!
I only use AMSOIL!!... even for cooking French Fries!!
My AMSOIL Milkshake is better than yours !!!
to AMSOIL Infinity!! and beyond!!
.......
I reject your Oil reality .. and replace my AMSOIL own !!

 

[grimmjeeper]

Only one person has mentioned AMSOIL.

I’m so proud of us.

?

 

[CarbonSteel]

Just remember the number to the left of the W is the Winter rating and does not stand for Weight.

The number to the left of the W also has no bearing whatsoever on wear except at extremely low temperatures.

It is the number to the right of the W that has the most impact on wear.

The high temperature high shear (HTHS) viscosity numbers are the most insightful into wear reduction.

It is generally accepted 2.6 HTHS is the minimum viscosity before accelerated or sustained wear occurs in an internal combustion engine.

Most xW-20 oils have an HTHS of 2.6 so the only question that needs be answered is do you operate or push your engine enough to cause xW-20 oil to drop below 2.6?

My guess is that many here do...so xW-30 should be your oil of choice...

Oil Brand	Viscosity	Minimum KV @100°C	Maximum KV @100°C	HTHS @ 150°C
---	xW-20	5.6	9.3	2.6
---	xW-30	9.3	12.5	2.9
---	xW-40	12.6	16.3	3.7

 

[Tncdrew]

@Tncdrew

Aw, man... I was just going to say I'll be at Oktoberfest this year in Munich before you deleted your post. Lol I thought it was funny.

Yeah, I realized that I think it's a Ural bike that @Heimkehr has, not a BMW....
Oh well, the joke was fun ?
I'll be actually flying home through Munich from Madrid at the end of October. I'll need to find some beer!?

 

[Grace213]

I know this isn't the test of all tests, but I saw this project farm video and couldn't help but notice the wear scar for 0w20 was much worse than the 5w20. Makes me think about going back to 5w20, which was what the JK 3.6 called for. They claim the 0w20 gives better fuel efficency but at what cost?

I live in AZ where temps rarely get below freezing. I hear the 0w20 flows better in very cold temps.

Any thoughts on running 5w20? I'm already past my warranty, so voiding it isn't my concern. My greater concern is engine wear.

Curious as to everyone's opinion and if anyone has been running 5w20 in the JL 3.6.

I guess you could use the pennies saved with slightly better fuel economy with the 0w20 on a replacement engine.

 

[Upnarms]

I

Just remember the number to the left of the W is the Winter rating and does not stand for Weight.

The number to the left of the W also has no bearing whatsoever on wear except at extremely low temperatures.

It is the number to the right of the W that has the most impact on wear.

The high temperature high shear (HTHS) viscosity numbers are the most insightful into wear reduction.

It is generally accepted 2.6 HTHS is the minimum viscosity before accelerated or sustained wear occurs in an internal combustion engine.

Most xW-20 oils have an HTHS of 2.6 so the only question that needs be answered is do you operate or push your engine enough to cause xW-20 oil to drop below 2.6?

My guess is that many here do...so xW-30 should be your oil of choice...

Oil Brand	Viscosity	Minimum KV @100°C	Maximum KV @100°C	HTHS @ 150°C
---	xW-20	5.6	9.3	2.6
---	xW-30	9.3	12.5	2.9
---	xW-40	12.6	16.3	3.7

I Understand what you are saying, but it's interesting in the test project farm did, the 5w20 had less wear than the 0w20.

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