Swap for D44 front or beef up D30?

[Stuckinthesand]

Yes agreed many in the past have run 3, 4, and 5speed in the past... when that was what they had. I wheeled a 5-speed TJ for many years. As I went up in tire size I quickly figured out the gears needed to be addressed. I did that myself with the help of a friend and it was a world of difference. While I don’t think I’d do another gear swap again myself, swapping an axle is something I have no issues doing myself.

I have done the wheeling with my current setup and I have come to the conclusion that I want to address the gearing. Even on the highway the gearing just isn’t what it should be IMO.

It seems the answer of many on this board is instead of addressing a $2k to (axle swap + regear) high end of maybe $5k problem I should instead spend $15k to address my issue. As for people’s comments on the warranty I’d be shocked to find any dealership that would cover any broken parts due to wheeling. I guess others just have larger pockets or are just willing to go more in debt.

I’d like to hear from people who have done this OR are currently wheeling on a D30 with 35’s to get their opinion of the front axle with that large of a tire.

See my post a few above. I am wheeling on 35’s with the same setup as you other than I have an auto. No issues at all and I wheel it monthly at least if not more. Like I said I don’t do anything rated higher than a blue trail. Look up Raush creek and you will see a lot of wheelers think they rate their trails low ie blue could be black or a blue/black. I have 20k miles on my sport s and knock on wood no issues at all since I switched to 35’s at 10k miles.

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[Stuckinthesand]

Yes agreed many in the past have run 3, 4, and 5speed in the past... when that was what they had. I wheeled a 5-speed TJ for many years. As I went up in tire size I quickly figured out the gears needed to be addressed. I did that myself with the help of a friend and it was a world of difference. While I don’t think I’d do another gear swap again myself, swapping an axle is something I have no issues doing myself.

I have done the wheeling with my current setup and I have come to the conclusion that I want to address the gearing. Even on the highway the gearing just isn’t what it should be IMO.

It seems the answer of many on this board is instead of addressing a $2k to (axle swap + regear) high end of maybe $5k problem I should instead spend $15k to address my issue. As for people’s comments on the warranty I’d be shocked to find any dealership that would cover any broken parts due to wheeling. I guess others just have larger pockets or are just willing to go more in debt.

I’d like to hear from people who have done this OR are currently wheeling on a D30 with 35’s to get their opinion of the front axle with that large of a tire.

Also just a note. Don’t think you have to do a 2” lift to fit 35’s. I did the RC 2.5” budget boost and have not come across anything I can’t do that a regular lift could. Just a thought. You could spend that money on wheels instead.

 

[crackrk]

Also just a note. Don’t think you have to do a 2” lift to fit 35’s. I did the RC 2.5” budget boost and have not come across anything I can’t do that a regular lift could. Just a thought. You could spend that money on wheels instead.

Thanks for the info. Good to know about you not having issues with the D30.

As for lift, I know I can fit 35’s as-is. Lift will come later down the road after more skid protection. I was able to get over some things in northern Minnesota’s Iron Range ORV park, but I was getting caught up on a lot of things that 1 or 2 more inches would have helped. One mod at a time and build as I need.

 

[Stuckinthesand]

Thanks for the info. Good to know about you not having issues with the D30.

As for lift, I know I can fit 35’s as-is. Lift will come later down the road after more skid protection. I was able to get over some things in northern Minnesota’s Iron Range ORV park, but I was getting caught up on a lot of things that 1 or 2 more inches would have helped. One mod at a time and build as I need.

That’s right I forgot you said you had a rubicon take off. That was my issue to. I was dragging on some things as well. Once I went to 35’s drastic difference from stock. I haven’t upgraded skids at all and since I put on the 35’s I think I’ll be ok. I drag once in awhile but nothing to worry about.

 

[JaayyyeeeE]

I’d like to hear from people who have done this OR are currently wheeling on a D30 with 35’s to get their opinion of the front axle with that large of a tire.

I run 37s on the D30. I plan on running 37s on the D30 until it pukes the gears out. At that point I will probably regear.
Unlike other vehicles I have owned where the higher trims are completely upgraded vehicles (different engine, transmission, suspension, electronics)ie m3 to 3 series, the rubicon is just a few overpriced addons here and there, same drivetrain (minus axles and front brakes) same electronics, almost identical suspension. You can do better than trading it in and just build yours to the same specs or better.
You already figured it out but the elitist here will just tell you “sHoUlD hAve bOuGhT a ‘cOn”. Just do what makes more sense to you.
That 2k d44 without brakes is overpriced. I’d just wait for the novelty to wear off and prices to drop once more used ones hit the market.

 

[tonythehomie]

I’m in the same boat as you @crackrk — sport with rear LSD — and have been considering my options for 35’s in the future so following along here.

Trading up for a rubi also isn’t in my budget so very interested in seeing what you end up going with and hearing your feedback on it

 

[Stuckinthesand]

I run 37s on the D30. I plan on running 37s on the D30 until it pukes the gears out. At that point I will probably regear.
Unlike other vehicles I have owned where the higher trims are completely upgraded vehicles (different engine, transmission, suspension, electronics)ie m3 to 3 series, the rubicon is just a few overpriced addons here and there, same drivetrain (minus axles and front brakes) same electronics, almost identical suspension. You can do better than trading it in and just build yours to the same specs or better.
You already figured it out but the elitist here will just tell you “sHoUlD hAve bOuGhT a ‘cOn”. Just do what makes more sense to you.
That 2k d44 without brakes is overpriced. I’d just wait for the novelty to wear off and prices to drop once more used ones hit the market.

Dead on post. Props for the 37’s. I’d worry myself to death. You use it as your daily to?

 

[blnewt]

As much as I love manual transmissions, this is one instance I'm very happy I have the 8AT. A perfect match for this vehicle and makes the stock Sport gears much more bearable vs. that 6MT.

Good thread though, interested in seeing how @crackrk works it out.

 

[JaayyyeeeE]

Dead on post. Props for the 37’s. I’d worry myself to death. You use it as your daily to?

It's my daily, I just put 5k miles on it all around Texas and Louisiana doing hurricane response operations. I definitely don't baby it.

 

[mnjeeper]

I say go D44 if you were going to lock the d30. The cost difference shrinks once you add 1K for a locker. If you stay open up front, the d30 should be ok IMO.

 

[blnewt]

Here's the build thread if you're interested, And you've got the rest of the day free (and the whole night)

FYP

 

[Jeepjunkie]

I have a sport on 35s and swapped a ProRock 44 with an elocker for my M186. I have a 6 speed manual and also found the 3.45s barely tolerable on road on my old 33”s. I now have 3.56s with the 35” tires and if I had it to do over would probably 4.88s. The higher gears help with the gap between 3rd and 4th gear, which I found a little wide with the 3.45 gears. Just my experience.
YMMV

 

[Therby]

I have a manual jeep, same axles as you 30/44

regeared to 4.56 on 315/70r17 and its perfect, 6th gear is useable after 100mph and holds fine.
It wheels amazing with the additional gearing with manual trans.

sometimes I regret not getting a rubicon.
My plan is to lock the rear next
Then I may go to 37s. My front D30 has artec truss and C gussets welded on. So its “strong” if i leave it open I think it will work on 37s

then upgrade to a ultimate dana 44 front axle after and now im set up better than a rubicon for axles

even building it over this amount of time and money still works out to be cheaper than buying a rubicon so

 

[ChattVol]

I have a manual jeep, same axles as you 30/44

regeared to 4.56 on 315/70r17 and its perfect, 6th gear is useable after 100mph and holds fine.
It wheels amazing with the additional gearing with manual trans.

sometimes I regret not getting a rubicon.
My plan is to lock the rear next
Then I may go to 37s. My front D30 has artec truss and C gussets welded on. So its “strong” if i leave it open I think it will work on 37s

then upgrade to a ultimate dana 44 front axle after and now im set up better than a rubicon for axles

even building it over this amount of time and money still works out to be cheaper than buying a rubicon so

Is your preferred cruising speed around 110mph? You must have dropped in a turbocharged Hemi 6.2.

 

[Therby]

Is your preferred cruising speed around 110mph? You must have dropped in a turbocharged Hemi 6.2.

wooops, sorry my fellow Americans

62mph** or 100kmh for Canadians like me

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