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THAT'S HANDY AF!!!! Preciate the link!I use this with the switch that came with my badlands winch.
https://centerak.com/products/jl-jt-winch-switch-mount

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THAT'S HANDY AF!!!! Preciate the link!I use this with the switch that came with my badlands winch.
https://centerak.com/products/jl-jt-winch-switch-mount

Right! I see your point. Wisely said wanderer.No. I will only say if a fuse is to protect the power wire from overloading. A fuse rated higher than the power wire has questionable value.
Second post.Did nobody really suggest a manual switch?
Thanks for posting. I really like the location of the switch as I have all my lights wired up at the aux switch wires near the battery and there’s really no room there. Did you fab a mount or is there a pre-made mount? Hard to tell where and how it’s attached.Did nobody really suggest a manual switch? I copied this idea:
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you can mount it on the fender like yawnie had at first on his 2020, just like the solenoids.
I like the simplicity. It’s always off unless I need it. I also have a big Anderson disconnect connected to the switch.
I have never had to use the winch to recover, but I connect my smittybilt compressor to the Anderson plug when I air up and turn the switch on.
Some people have said they just turn the switch on if they’re going out on the trail, but I don’t see any difference leaving it off until I need to air up or use a winch, and I’d rather have it off until needed.
Very nice! Yes I have a switch, it came with the winch. I fabbed up a bracket to mount it. I'm going to add an individual fuse for it at the battery too.Did nobody really suggest a manual switch? I copied this idea:
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you can mount it on the fender like yawnie had at first on his 2020, just like the solenoids.
I like the simplicity. It’s always off unless I need it. I also have a big Anderson disconnect connected to the switch.
I have never had to use the winch to recover, but I connect my smittybilt compressor to the Anderson plug when I air up and turn the switch on.
Some people have said they just turn the switch on if they’re going out on the trail, but I don’t see any difference leaving it off until I need to air up or use a winch, and I’d rather have it off until needed.
I fab’d a simple bracket, same spot as him. Uses a bolt for the engine cover and I believe another one nearby, though they are not on the same plane/little uneven.Thanks for posting. I really like the location of the switch as I have all my lights wired up at the aux switch wires near the battery and there’s really no room there. Did you fab a mount or is there a pre-made mount? Hard to tell where and how it’s attached.
@JasonInDLH - here you go. There is a template towards the end of the thread that has the measurements.I fab’d a simple bracket, same spot as him. Uses a bolt for the engine cover and I believe another one nearby, though they are not on the same plane/little uneven.
I would look up @CarbonSteel posts, I believe he used a flat piece of sturdier stock and leveled it with washers under one bolt… my solution was to bend up a couple sheets of sheet steel because that’s what I had handy and could work with. His method is cleaner.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/“stealth”-hidden-smittybilt-h2o-12k-winch-install-on-maximus-3-winch-plate.67115/post-1477952
Yes, fuses are to protect wiring, not anything else.No. I will only say if a fuse is to protect the power wire from overloading. A fuse rated higher than the power wire has questionable value.
That'll work just fine. Not much different than turning a switch under the hood. Lift cover, remove wing nut, pop on cable, install wing nut.![]()
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I use a wingnut. When not in use, I cover the positive wire with a rubber tube and tuck it out of the way.
I settled on this after learning that Warn recommends wiring the winch directly to the battery, and a fuse/solenoid/switch can fail when it's most inconvenient.
I was going to order a Blue sea system 300 amp fuse, The winch says max pull 300 amp. I think 300 amp fuse should be fine but I would have felt a little more comfortable with a 350 amp fuse, JIC.
Thanks for your help.
It's just a 9500 ZXR Badland, nothing special. It came with a switch which was new to me, my old one did not. After carefully reading the manual, it does say max pull at 9500lbs is 330 amps.Yes, fuses are to protect wiring, not anything else.
If the cables can handle 600 amps, then you'd use a fuse with a lower rating by a fair margin to protect the wiring.
Fuses are never to protect the device.
That'll work just fine. Not much different than turning a switch under the hood. Lift cover, remove wing nut, pop on cable, install wing nut.
And the best part - it's really cheap! (and no dealer can gripe about your winch draining the batteries like they tried to tell me with mine - ignoring that big switch next to the battery)
Must be a smaller winch than I have if it says 300 amps.
Most of the larger Warn and the Apex 1200s can draw over 400 amps, I think my book says up to 480 amps. I'd have to read it again.
I like the wingnut idea just in case, good call.![]()
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I use a wingnut. When not in use, I cover the positive wire with a rubber tube and tuck it out of the way.
I settled on this after learning that Warn recommends wiring the winch directly to the battery, and a fuse/solenoid/switch can fail when it's most inconvenient.
Here's a question for all of youse - I am in the process of moving the controller (contact) off my Warn Zeon 12,000 from the top of the winch to inside the engine compartment. I'm trying to to minimize/conceal the presence of the winch to deter theft, being targeted, etc.
Once I move the controller inside, will this suffice to remove power from the winch (which is what this thread is about, if I'm reading it right)? From my understanding, by doing this I will only have power at the winch when it's in use - disabling the ability for others to power it up from outside, as well as keeping power from the winch in the event of a collision.
Am I right or wrong on my thoughts here?
Opinions and input appreciated.