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Two (naive) caster questions

rickinAZ

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Jeep = JLURD on 35s + a 2" leveling lift. I just installed some Teraflex adjustible front control arms and now my caster is high (7-8 degrees). I have the arms adjusted to 24 3/8". Seems to drives fine.


1) How much caster is too much? [I may be knocking on that door] What are the everyday implications of too much?

2) And...I think that I know (unfortunately) the answer to this: To adjust my control arms, it looks like I basically have to uninstall/adjust/reinstall. Right? Any time-saving tips?
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oceanblue2019

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Jeep = JLURD on 35s + a 2" leveling lift. I just installed some Teraflex adjustible front control arms and now my caster is high (7-8 degrees). I have the arms adjusted to 24 3/8". Seems to drives fine.


1) How much caster is too much? [I may be knocking on that door] What are the everyday implications of too much?

2) And...I think that I know (unfortunately) the answer to this: To adjust my control arms, it looks like I basically have to uninstall/adjust/reinstall. Right? Any time-saving tips?
Usually 24.5" of lower arm with factory upper length gets you around 6.5 degrees with a 2.5 lift

8 degrees is too much, and I would say 7 degree is on the verge of too much but others may disagree here. I think 6.5 is ideal and what I try to achieve.

For the TF arms you need to uninstall them on one end. A few other brands allow on vehicle adjustment, which is handy, but once set you don't usually need to play with them often.
 
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rickinAZ

rickinAZ

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Usually 24.5" of lower arm with factory upper length gets you around 6.5 degrees with a 2.5 lift

8 degrees is too much, and I would say 7 degree is on the verge of too much but others may disagree here. I think 6.5 is ideal and what I try to achieve.

For the TF arms you need to uninstall them on one end. A few other brands allow on vehicle adjustment, which is handy, but once set you don't usually need to play with them often.
Thanks John. After a closer look. I'm either at 7 or just shy of it. 8 degrees had me panicked. Actually, the thought of reinstalling the LCAs had me panicked.

The fact that only one end would need to be uninstalled is good. But...I would have liked it better if the adjustment was on the frame side due to access.
 

oceanblue2019

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Thanks John. After a closer look. I'm either at 7 or just shy of it. 8 degrees had me panicked. Actually, the thought of reinstalling the LCAs had me panicked.

The fact that only one end would need to be uninstalled is good. But...I would have liked it better if the adjustment was on the frame side due to access.
Yeah those are big boy torque numbers to achieve, especially if not on a lift.
 

hoag4147

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Thanks John. After a closer look. I'm either at 7 or just shy of it. 8 degrees had me panicked. Actually, the thought of reinstalling the LCAs had me panicked.

The fact that only one end would need to be uninstalled is good. But...I would have liked it better if the adjustment was on the frame side due to access.
Just shy of 7 should be fine from everything I read. Not positive but couldn't you just remove the frame side and spin from there even though adjustable end is attached to axle, or does clamp interfere?
 

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rickinAZ

rickinAZ

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Not positive but couldn't you just remove the frame side and spin from there even though adjustable end is attached to axle, or does clamp interfere?
Duh (picture hand slapping forehead). I'm ashamed to say that I didn't think of that. That would make life easier if I need to adjust. I'm fairly sure that the clamp doesn't spin at all - it should work.
 

hoag4147

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Duh (picture hand slapping forehead). I'm ashamed to say that I didn't think of that. That would make life easier if I need to adjust. I'm fairly sure that the clamp doesn't spin at all - it should work.
Lol. I was just taking @oceanblue2019 lead above when he mentioned removing one side :like: . All good. Hopefully good where you’re at and now enjoy the better handling at highway speeds.
 

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Duh (picture hand slapping forehead). I'm ashamed to say that I didn't think of that. That would make life easier if I need to adjust. I'm fairly sure that the clamp doesn't spin at all - it should work.
A ratchet strap works well to make small adjustments to line up the bolt holes after the control arm lengths are changed.
 

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Thanks John. After a closer look. I'm either at 7 or just shy of it. 8 degrees had me panicked. Actually, the thought of reinstalling the LCAs had me panicked.

The fact that only one end would need to be uninstalled is good. But...I would have liked it better if the adjustment was on the frame side due to access.

I use an ios app called "bubble level" to measure this angle. There is a flat area inboard adjacent to the ball joints that I have found to be +- .5 degrees of the caster when measured on a machine.
 

Terminex

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Fixing stupid....
If you have the teraflex alpine arms, you will need to loosen the bolt on one and, and then completely remove the other end from the mount.

once one of the ends is free it is 2 allen bolts on the locking collar. (Fyi those allen bolts are 20 foot pounds for torque)

once it is back on the ground torque both ends of the arms.

you are “supposed” toloosen & torque all of the arms any time you make a geometry change, but i really to not think a tiny change on the LCAs will make much difference on the UCA bushings. (Referring to Binding while stationary)

FYI - if you have the Teraflex Alpine IR control arms, you do NOT need to loosen the opposite end. One of the reason i went with Teraflex IR was to be able to make changes and never have to loosen any bolts since the bushings do not bind like everyone else’s bushings.

good luck& cheers!
 

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Some vehicles were actually in spec at 8 degrees. The down sides of too much caster are that it increases the amount of effort that the steering has to do to turn the wheel when moving slow. So especially in the rocks. This is because the axis that it turns moves forward of the center of the tire, and when the wheels turn it will have to slightly lift the weight of the vehicle. Other issues that are more specific to the JL is track bar clearance at the axle mount. But it has to go pretty far before that is an issue.
 

AnnDee4444

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Some vehicles were actually in spec at 8 degrees. The down sides of too much caster are that it increases the amount of effort that the steering has to do to turn the wheel when moving slow. So especially in the rocks. This is because the axis that it turns moves forward of the center of the tire, and when the wheels turn it will have to slightly lift the weight of the vehicle. Other issues that are more specific to the JL is track bar clearance at the axle mount. But it has to go pretty far before that is an issue.
Good point. Increasing the scrub radius will also increase steering effort. With stock wheels & tires, I don't think I noticed any additional steering effort when increasing the caster (stock height JLR, installed Mopar lift arms).

This may or may not be an issue depending on your steering box:
2-Door steering ratio: 17.4:1
4-Door steering ratio: 15.6:1
JT steering ratio: 13.3:1
 

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Just ask @cosine he knows!
Good point. Increasing the scrub radius will also increase steering effort. With stock wheels & tires, I don't think I noticed any additional steering effort when increasing the caster (stock height JLR, installed Mopar lift arms).

This may or may not be an issue depending on your steering box:
2-Door steering ratio: 17.4:1
4-Door steering ratio: 15.6:1
JT steering ratio: 13.3:1
Put that JT box in the 2dr and wow, you'd have some quite snappy steering response, might give you a whiplash :)
 

AnnDee4444

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Put that JT box in the 2dr and wow, you'd have some quite snappy steering response, might give you a whiplash :)
I think they slow the ratio down in the shorter wheelbases in order to pass the moose test.
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