wtodd
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Todd
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2020
- Threads
- 0
- Messages
- 68
- Reaction score
- 166
- Location
- Houston, TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 HellaYella JLR 6spd w/ BnL re-gear, MC 3.5"
Done!I'd jump on that with you.
Danno
Sponsored
Done!I'd jump on that with you.
Danno
As I've posted on here, I did NOT like the throttle controller, and I hated the stock clutch. Now that I'm on a Centerforce, maybe the controller would help, but I'm still doubtful. Where I'm REALLY placing my hope is in Livernois being able to remove most of the rev hang when they get to make a tune for the manual JL. As is, it's hard to drive it in the powerband, It cuts power hard if you accidentally hit redline and then you have to wait forever for the revs to drop in order to grab the next gear unless you just jam it in and dump the clutch.Great info on this thread, my apologies if this specific question has been asked but here it goes.
I have a 2018, manual Rubicon, 3.5" lift, 37s, 4.88 gears. I find it to be anemic in terms of it's ability to move. Comparing it to my wife's 2018 automatic, 3.5" lift 37s and 4.10 gears is like comparing apples to oranges. Even without the proper gears her Jeep launches off the line like a rocket ship.
Is anyone running a throttle controller with 37s, 4.88s and a manual? Is it really possible to get my Jeep to be more enjoyable with something as simple as a throttle controller? I love my Jeep, seriously I freaking love this thing, but I get so disappointed with the "meh" feeling most of the time in terms of responsiveness.
Don't get me wrong, if the stars align and it's a full moon there are times when I time everything perfect and hit all the sweet spots but 90% of the time that is not the case.
I am NOT a fan of the double clutch and I have turned off hill assist since it created what I would call a "mushy" clutch feel, very un-natural clutch feel when pulling out from a stop.
How are you driving your manual? By that I mean are you taching up to like 4k before you shift? Higher? Lower?As I've posted on here, I did NOT like the throttle controller, and I hated the stock clutch. Now that I'm on a Centerforce, maybe the controller would help, but I'm still doubtful. Where I'm REALLY placing my hope is in Livernois being able to remove most of the rev hang when they get to make a tune for the manual JL. As is, it's hard to drive it in the powerband, It cuts power hard if you accidentally hit redline and then you have to wait forever for the revs to drop in order to grab the next gear unless you just jam it in and dump the clutch.
I usually shift between 3000 and 4000 depending how quickly I want to accelerate. I had a muffler delete for a little while but put back the stock muffler for similar reasons.How are you driving your manual? By that I mean are you taching up to like 4k before you shift? Higher? Lower?
I have an AFE cat back and it gets pretty high school parking lot small penis loud above 3k so I try not to look like a total DB when I am driving but I am getting the sense I need to. The auto in my wife's will constantly tach way up when dropping the hammer and I am getting the sense I need to as well.
What didn't you like about throttle control mods?
Can you please explain the Livernois and rev hang. I see that when I press the clutch, especially in like a parking lot the revs like to hang for awhile which is very odd compared to old school clutches.
BTW... you nailed the WOT auto RPMs. It will go right to before red line and then pick the next gear right at 5k, good call and now I understand why it does that.I usually shift between 3000 and 4000 depending how quickly I want to accelerate. I had a muffler delete for a little while but put back the stock muffler for similar reasons.
This engine really comes to life about 5000 rpm or so and will get to 6500 rev-cut pretty quickly. I haven't actually driven an auto JL but I'd be willing to bet with the 8-speed that at WOT it's probably shifting at 6495 rpm and picks up the next gear right at that 5000 rpm sweet spot. It can be done with our manuals, but it hurts me to shift quick as the rpm just sits there at 6400 and I have no choice but to let out the clutch let it do the work matching revs.
The rev hang is done for emissions purposes but I think it's stupid. It could be removed from the programming by a skilled tuner, but the engine would no longer be emissions compliant during shift events.
I didn't like the throttle modifier as the rpm is already difficult to control with the light stock flywheel and any setting over stock just made it more sensitive and harder to modulate
You definitely need to be shifting at rpm's well above 3k. I shift at 3500-4000rpm in normal driving....let it rev even more for more assertive driving.How are you driving your manual? By that I mean are you taching up to like 4k before you shift? Higher? Lower?
I have an AFE cat back and it gets pretty high school parking lot small penis loud above 3k so I try not to look like a total DB when I am driving but I am getting the sense I need to. The auto in my wife's will constantly tach way up when dropping the hammer and I am getting the sense I need to as well.
What didn't you like about throttle control mods?
Can you please explain the Livernois and rev hang. I see that when I press the clutch, especially in like a parking lot the revs like to hang for awhile which is very odd compared to old school clutches.
Well written.I may have been wrong about the functions of the gas pedal transducer. It may be that the pedal includes a ramp up and down speed to the ecu. Although I dont know how a controller would bypass that without getting between the pedal and the output.
Anyway here is an article I found interesting.
https://mr4x4.com.au/everything-you-need-to-know-about-throttle-controllers-free-horsepower/
A pretty good write-up. You are correct in that it can't change the ramp-up or down. It just boosts the signal as it comesI may have been wrong about the functions of the gas pedal transducer. It may be that the pedal includes a ramp up and down speed to the ecu. Although I dont know how a controller would bypass that without getting between the pedal and the output.
Anyway here is an article I found interesting.
https://mr4x4.com.au/everything-you-need-to-know-about-throttle-controllers-free-horsepower/
Just an FYI, the link you sent is NOT for the Wrangler JL but it is for the JK.Eh, $300 is too mush for me. I went with something simpler and more cost effective:
https://protuningusa.com/product/power-pack-upgrade-quick-connect-throttle-response-tuner/
You plug it in and it just - works. No wires all over the front of my Jeep, no menus or bluetooth pairing crap. Just plug it in and press the button for the power I want - done. Plus I have an extra $150 in my pocket
This is a scam everyone. Please disregard.Eh, $300 is too mush for me. I went with something simpler and more cost effective:
https://protuningusa.com/product/power-pack-upgrade-quick-connect-throttle-response-tuner/
You plug it in and it just - works. No wires all over the front of my Jeep, no menus or bluetooth pairing crap. Just plug it in and press the button for the power I want - done. Plus I have an extra $150 in my pocket