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Tread4Lo

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Keep air dam and no winch. Well shit, I cut the crash bar off and installed a winch this weekend. I'm definitely screwed.

Running to Dallas with this setup. Engine temp was around 210* and oil hottest it got was 225*. Granted I never had a decent basis on mine, took the cutoff wheel to it in less than a week.

While crawling around underneath the front end for that long, there is prolly a good 4" that seem to sit below the grill area and right behind the front bumper. The hard part would be opening this area up therefore it can actually do it's job.
 

Come2elmo

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Keep air dam and no winch. Well shit, I cut the crash bar off and installed a winch this weekend. I'm definitely screwed.

Running to Dallas with this setup. Engine temp was around 210* and oil hottest it got was 225*. Granted I never had a decent basis on mine, took the cutoff wheel to it in less than a week.

While crawling around underneath the front end for that long, there is prolly a good 4" that seem to sit below the grill area and right behind the front bumper. The hard part would be opening this area up therefore it can actually do it's job.
texas is mostly flat relativly speaking And Dallas is like negative flat. Most of the overheating reports are from people running full out going up serious grade in the mountains. you will be fine.
 

Petey

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On my 3.6 JLR with a manual gearbox and 37's going up a five mile mnt grade at ~55 MPH to 65 MPH with an ambient of about 80 degrees F, the temperature reading on the dash reaches about 230 degrees F.
On a cooler day (65 degrees F), the same climb the engine temps rise to about 220 degrees F.

My $0.015 worth, the JL coiling system should be better. Considering an aftermarket oil cooler.
Exactly my opinion too. That puny radiator doesn't belong there and especially not for the higher output engines ..can u believe they supposedly use it in the v8 ? I'm just waiting for jeep with a recall on the units.. Is there an aftermarket oil cooler that u know of?
 

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Tread4Lo

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texas is mostly flat relativly speaking And Dallas is like negative flat. Most of the overheating reports are from people running full out going up serious grade in the mountains. you will be fine.
Yeah, I know. Just making light of the situation. Mainly when saying don't mount a winch OR change the air dam. Most people with a Jeep will do something to the front bumper and add a winch.

I've read that Jalopnik article as well. The max tow came with the Pentastar as well. When I had that on my last JL, I don't think you could get it hot. Always ran 190-195, full open, trails or idling. It had the smaller grill mesh, slats are technically shorter as well (figured this out when changing out the diesel grill mesh to Gladiator mesh).

They talk about doing this technical stuff, I don't know it it did anything just because the engine choice. If they would have pulled away with 9k# on the diesel, I would have then been impressed.
 

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Last week I towed my UTV for the first time. On the interstate at 65 mph, cruise control set, elevation 4700 feet, outside air at 89-90 degrees. Oil temp got as high as 240 on over passes but generally ran around 235-237.
UTV and trailer weigh in at around 2800lbs. Trans stayed in 7 or 8 gear.
 

BDinTX

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Rodeoflyer

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240-ish is like a ragged edge of overheating... The engineers designed the engine to work for many 100 thousands of miles at a set temp and 230 isn't overheating.

You can run your car at 240 or 250 degrees without hurting anything, as long as the water in the radiator doesn't boil. Once the water boils, it will immediately push water out the overflow, lower the coolant level in the radiator, and give you air bubbles circulating through the cooling system.
 

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garykk

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240-ish is like a ragged edge of overheating... The engineers designed the engine to work for many 100 thousands of miles at a set temp and 230 isn't overheating.

You can run your car at 240 or 250 degrees without hurting anything, as long as the water in the radiator doesn't boil. Once the water boils, it will immediately push water out the overflow, lower the coolant level in the radiator, and give you air bubbles circulating through the cooling system.
Water temp stayed around 225 to 228
 

RubiBlueJLU

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Thought I would share:

2021 JLURD, 33’s, steel front bumper with winch (down behind). I have the front camera, so wider grill mesh, and a RockJock base plate. Pulling a 6x10, v-nose, single axel cargo trailer, total weight about 2000# that is about a foot and a half taller than the Jeep. 3 of us inside, all at around 200 lbs, plus a cooler.

Initially had a 3/4” squat at the rear tires and a 1-1/4” rise at the front tires.
Moved some stuff around and got the rear squat to about 1/2”.

Just completed a trip from near St. Louis, MO to just north of Salt Lake City, UT. Route: I-70 west to I-29 north, to I-80 west to I-84 west, then north a bit on I-15.

Started at elevation 542’ slowly worked out way up to 8638’ (with a few climbs) and then back down to 4226’.

The diesel didn’t miss a beat. No “super big” climbs, but some long burns. None of the temps ever passed the half way mark on the gauges.

Started out running at 65-70 mph to get a feel for the trailer and milage. As we got further west, limits increased and so did our speed. 75, 80, 85 mph with ease. Only dropped into 7th or 6th gear 3 or 4 times. Milage danced around 16-18 mpg on the open road. I could get that up to about 24 mpg if I dropped about 5 mph and tucked in behind a trucker, using his draft. On long, flat runs that would increase to 28-34 mpg.

I found using the adaptive cruise control, set to max distance, was the best way to maximize mpg. Find someone bigger than us and drop in behind them to draft. Anticipating lane changes became a “game” in my mind as we would pass other vehicles, still drafting the vehicle in front. It was also helpful in construction zones, as it slowed down and maintained spacing as the speeds fluctuated.

Overall, a great run with no issues. Diesel was a joy, with torque to spare. The trailer was non-existent, except on conc pavement, when we got the bouncy-bouncy from the pavement joints. Nothing bad, just irritating! Might look into an equalizing hitch to smooth it out.

Jeep you fuel pedal off the floor for best results.

Mike
Jeep Wrangler JL Overheating... 3993FEA6-B2C7-4FF5-B220-593EE4A6AE8A
 

Countryswiss

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Air flow CFM through the radiator, is the key to running cooler engine temps. Don’t block air flow with, winch, bar and lights. Keep your air dam on. Keep the bugs washed out of your trans cooler, A/C Condenser and radiator. Trim about 3” off of one’s front inner fenders, from the front back to the shock area. This creates a low pressure zone, and helps the engine cooling fan to move air through the radiator, more efficiently. I live in hot as hell Arizona, so I have tried it all.
Could you elaborate on this cutting method. I want to do this today
Maybe even post a photo of where you cut yours ? I would be very thankful
 

Old Dogger

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Could you elaborate on this cutting method. I want to do this today
Maybe even post a photo of where you cut yours ? I would be very thankful
Jeep Wrangler JL Overheating... A16615E0-D25E-4C44-A2FA-4D1BF5BDA417

Just cut a piece out of the inner fender, from the front to the shock. This is a PIC of my JKR. But I also did this to our JLR. The engines cooling fan doesn’t have to work as hard, plus it move additional CFM through the Radiator.
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