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Overheating...

Countryswiss

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Just cut a piece out of the inner fender, from the front to the shock. This is a PIC of my JKR. But I also did this to our JLR. The engines cooling fan doesn’t have to work as hard, plus it move additional CFM through the Radiator.
Im going to give this a shot. Thank you

Any other tips to lower temps?
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Im going to give this a shot. Thank you

Any other tips to lower temps?
1. Keep your trans oil cooler, A/C Condenser, and radiator flushed out externally.
2. Don't block CFM to ones Radiator with winch, lightbar and lights.
3. Leave your Air Dam on.
4. Remove engine cover.
5. Adding excessive weight like skids, winch and heavier bumpers, will increase coolant temps.
6. Heavier tires, more mass to turn also causes more engine heat.
7. If one decides on larger tires, then make sure that one selects the correct applicable gear ratio.
8. From time to time check your coolant level.
9. Keep enough air in your tires. This will also make it easier for your engine to move your vehicles weight.
10. Last but not least, shoot your Thermostat housing, with a Infra-red heat gun. This will confirm that the engine cooling temps that you are seeing in your dash are accurate.
 

garykk

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I noticed that a few inches of the radiator extends below the top of the bumper. The area below the bumper is sealed with the skid pan. I was considering removing the snap out panel where a winch fair lead would go. Any thoughts?
 

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Overheating issue today but monitored temperatures and kept highway speeds without derating. Saw oil temps over 250 and coolant over 240 running 3000 rpm on PGBT in Dallas (keeping up with traffic and fighting wind). Slowed to 2000 rpms and temperaturs dropped. Anything over 2k rpm for over half a mile including the easy grades caused tempts to climb back up. Have a trip coming up to Fredericksburg next week with temps over 100 for the 4 hour drive. Also learned the tough lesson last year on idling down when stopping at Buc-ees. Had anyone found any tricks (i.e. fan upgrades, different thermostats etc) to lower the risk. Not towing but pretty heavy. 68k miles.
 

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Overheating issue today but monitored temperatures and kept highway speeds without derating. Saw oil temps over 250 and coolant over 240 running 3000 rpm on PGBT in Dallas (keeping up with traffic and fighting wind). Slowed to 2000 rpms and temperaturs dropped. Anything over 2k rpm for over half a mile including the easy grades caused tempts to climb back up. Have a trip coming up to Fredericksburg next week with temps over 100 for the 4 hour drive. Also learned the tough lesson last year on idling down when stopping at Buc-ees. Had anyone found any tricks (i.e. fan upgrades, different thermostats etc) to lower the risk. Not towing but pretty heavy. 68k miles.
Do you have a Tazer? I utilize “cool down mode” on long drives on hot days to keep temps in the high 190s low 200s and if pushing up grade or higher speeds it will run up to 230 or so. Just having the cooling system running full tilt in anticipation helps when the motor sees load.
 

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AppleJacks23

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Do you have a Tazer? I utilize “cool down mode” on long drives on hot days to keep temps in the high 190s low 200s and if pushing up grade or higher speeds it will run up to 230 or so. Just having the cooling system running full tilt in anticipation helps when the motor sees load.
I do, that's a really good thought! I know there were some issues with that on the diesel..assume it's working now?
 

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I do, that's a really good thought! I know there were some issues with that on the diesel..assume it's working now?
Ooh, not sure there. DYOR on that, I’m running the 3.6, 37s and too much gear ? but it works. Just got home from a 3,500 mile trip out to Utah, and it saved us more than a couple times
 

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Ooh, not sure there. DYOR on that, I’m running the 3.6, 37s and too much gear ? but it works. Just got home from a 3,500 mile trip out to Utah, and it saved us more than a couple times
Speaking Apple to Apples this is the 3.0 diesel forum. Comparing anything else misconstrues this entire thread. Just saying....
 

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Speaking Apple to Apples this is the 3.0 diesel forum. Comparing anything else misconstrues this entire thread. Just saying....
?‍♂ Didn’t realize I was overstepping, it engages the cooling system by lying to the ecu about trans temps, I would assume it would work across platforms, but, if it doesn’t what have you lost? A button press, with a shot in my book.
 

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Google 3.0L Ecodiesel high temps and it will pull up forum threads about high temps in all three of the vehicles this engine was put in the US even the Ram 1500 which has a larger engine bay and a huge radiator compared to the JL.

Google 3.6L Pentastar high temps and you will get the same in the 10+ vehicles it was put on. I bought all sorts of accessories for my 2014 Rubicon because the makers of these products led me to believe that the higher temps was due to the small radiator and engine bay of the JK even though vehicles with much larger engine bays and radiators had the same temps with this engine.

Google the small 2.0L Jeep high temps and you will still find forum threads even though it is a new engine with a few vehicles it was put in so far.

Maybe we need to come to the realization that these engines just normally run hotter than what we've come to expect from older engines and it is not because of the cramped spaces of the Jeep Wrangler's engine bay or its radiator size since they also run the same temps in much larger engine bays with bigger radiators.

These engines do create a lot of power for their displacement compared to the old underpowered engines we are comparing the temps to and more power with the same/similar displacement will equate to more heat. The old Jeep 4.0L made 47.5 hp per liter while the 3.0L Ecodiesel makes 86.7 hp per liter, the 3.6L makes 79 hp per liter, and the 2.0L makes 135 hp per liter. My 6.7L Cummins made 56 hp per liter with it's stock 375 hp and now that it is roughly 550 hp at the crank, it is 82 hp per liter and it does get hotter than it used to when I am using all those ponies.

Just a thought.
 
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Wrangler man

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Google 3.0L Ecodiesel high temps and it will pull up forum threads about high temps in all three of the vehicles this engine was put in the US even the Ram 1500 which has a larger engine bay and a huge radiator compared to the JL.

Google 3.6L Pentastar high temps and you will get the same in the 10+ vehicles it was put on. I bought all sorts of accessories for my 2014 Rubicon because the makers of these products led me to believe that the higher temps was due to the small radiator and engine bay of the JK even though vehicles with much larger engine bays and radiators had the same temps with this engine.

Google the small 2.0L Jeep high temps and you will still find forum threads even though it is a new engine with a few vehicles it was put in so far.

Maybe we need to come to the realization that these engines just normally run hotter than what we've come to expect from older engines and it is not because of the cramped spaces of the Jeep Wrangler's engine bay or its radiator size since they also run the same temps in much larger engine bays with bigger radiators.

These engines do create a lot of power for their displacement compared to the old underpowered engines we are comparing the temps to and more power with the same/similar displacement will equate to more heat. The old Jeep 4.0L made 47.5 hp per liter while the 3.0L Ecodiesel makes 86.7 hp per liter, the 3.6L makes 79 hp per liter, and the 2.0L makes 135 hp per liter. My 6.7L Cummins made 56 hp per liter with it's stock 375 hp and now that it is roughly 550 hp at the crank, it is 82 hp per liter and it does get hotter than it used to when I am using all those ponies.

Just a thought.
The naturally aspirated 3.6 does not have a turbo all the other ones you've mentioned do. Turbos across the board generate a significant amount of heat adding to the engine bay temperatures. When walking through a parking lot here the desert the M6 with its twin turbo tucked into that small engine bay its quite common to hear the electric fan running for 10 plus minutes sometimes longer after the owner has shut down the car. The EcoDiesel to my knowledge has not had any high temp problems in the 1500 Ram engine bay. BTW the air box in the 1500 Ram is twice the size of the one in the Wrangler on the 3.0 in my opinion the lack of engine bay space for cooling is the problem. The European Wrangler with the 3.0 which has been around longer than the US version comes standard with a hood vent. I don't believe that was placed on the Diesels for aesthetic reasons but more for functional.
 

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115° today, 15th consectutive day over 110° - not even close to overheating.
 

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I'm guessing a lot of us are new to diesels. Thankfully I have my dad who has a wealth of knowledge about many different types of vehicles. However rather than writing a page of information that no one's going to read, here's a link to a diesel forum and a screenshot of the post that pretty much tells you everything that you need to know...

https://www.thedieselstop.com/threads/how-hot-is-too-hot.305213/


Jeep Wrangler JL Overheating... Screenshot_20230714-191357-081
 

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115° today, 15th consectutive day over 110° - not even close to overheating.
Same temperatures here in Palm Springs, same results. As long as I stay off the freeway and interstates. The auxiliary fan consistently runs on high on my runs and drives around town. It's my belief this is what keeps that engine bay and block from getting hot resulting in the cooler operating temperatures. The minute I go on to the interstate that all changes. I'm not overheating but I'm definitely running higher temperatures. Much higher. From past posts I'm hearing similar stories. Anything other than slow and go including, wheeling stop and go traffic seems to trigger the higher temperatures. I have my new aluminum radiator and aluminum trans cooler still in the box hope to be installing it soon to see if I could improve upon this. I will keep everyone posted.
 

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Jeep Wrangler JL Overheating... 1689448433984


Coolant temps don't exceed more than 212F in this heat. But if temps in the 80s F, then street driving will bring the coolant temps to fluctuate between 222-231F, and oil temps can go up to 235F.
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