head gasket swap after P0301 code

[RenegadeT]

Any helpful tips to getting the timing cover off? I belive i have all the fasteners and parts removed.
Watched a nixfix youtube video (several several times), he said its a bear and really glued on. What I'm not seeing is any suitable pry points near the top.
Before I jump in, I'm gonna take a lunch/sanity break, see if i can find more info online.

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[RenegadeT]

Timing cover off, 30mins. Started prying the upper pass. side with a putty knife breaking the RTV seal and moving down. Then adding successively bigger screwdrivers and gently prying out. Worked my way along the top over to driver side. I was finally able to get 2 pry bars between the cover and each head, just outboard of the oil cooler/filter. That allowed the putty knife to get under the AC compressor and work a little bit down as space permitted. With a lotta wiggling, was able to.get the putty knife under the bottom edge of the cover and get that sucker out.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Don't forget to use the right sealant. The Mopar stuff is made by Threebond. They also made Yamabond and other sealants. Good stuff. Threebond is labeled by GM, Mopar, and many other major manufacturers. It's the best stuff I've used. Don't skimp here.

 

[HHGadget]

Timing cover off, 30mins. Started prying the upper pass. side with a putty knife breaking the RTV seal and moving down. Then adding successively bigger screwdrivers and gently prying out. Worked my way along the top over to driver side. I was finally able to get 2 pry bars between the cover and each head, just outboard of the oil cooler/filter. That allowed the putty knife to get under the AC compressor and work a little bit down as space permitted. With a lotta wiggling, was able to.get the putty knife under the bottom edge of the cover and get that sucker out.

Good on ya for getting that sucker off

 

[RenegadeT]

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm getting there, better start ordering some parts for the reassemble, including the trick Mopar RTV.
I think there's just the AC compressor, exhaust outlets and I'm sure some bonus unseen connectors/fir trees tucked behind the heads before I actually pull the heads.
Then oil cooler/filter and get ready to put it back together.

 

[Valpo Jeep]

Are you gonna replace both head gaskets? Sounded like the dealer was only recommending 1 side.

 

[RenegadeT]

Are you gonna replace both head gaskets? Sounded like the dealer was only recommending 1 side.

I plan to do both sides, since I'm this deep. I don't trust the dealer; they just told me if I was successful getting any warranty, they would only cover what failed. I'm sure they would've tried to talk me into more stuff while I'm in there. That's why I consider their 3400 quote the absolute minimum.

 

[roaniecowpony]

When I worked in a race engine cylinder head shop, when the earth was cooling, we checked the valve jobs we did by putting solvent in the chambers to see if it sealed.

 

[alphawolff]

The mopar three-bond stuff is some serious adhesive. I had to smack somebody for using it on lower oil pans.

Are you gonna replace both head gaskets? Sounded like the dealer was only recommending 1 side.

Always do both sides. If one failed the other is not far behind with these engines.

 

[RenegadeT]

Spent a little time on it last nigt, got the ac compressor off (did not have an e7 external torx as noted on internet, but e8 worked fine) and the passenger side exhaust/cat disconnected from the head.
The drivers side cat is a different story. 3 of the 4 bolts are loose. The lower rear bolt looks to be impossible. Thought about removing the starter to get bsome access, but that looks impossible too.
I disconnected a hardpipe nearby, but that didn't seem to help. I may have to drop the MORE skidplate hanging from the motor mount. Doesn't seem like that will help, but every mm gained is a plus.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Take the fenders off.

 

[RenegadeT]

Got that pesky cat bolt off. Daylight and fresh mind helps. I was above/on the engine with a 10mm gear wrench and had someone below guiding it on the bolt. No real problem.

Detorquing the head bolts...my 3/8 breaker bar was bending like a wet noodle under the cheater bar. Rather than break it, seems like a good excuse to go out and buy a 1/2 breaker bar finally.

 

[HHGadget]

Got that pesky cat bolt off. Daylight and fresh mind helps. I was above/on the engine with a 10mm gear wrench and had someone below guiding it on the bolt. No real problem.

Detorquing the head bolts...my 3/8 breaker bar was bending like a wet noodle under the cheater bar. Rather than break it, seems like a good excuse to go out and buy a 1/2 breaker bar finally.

A job like this is a perfectly valid reason to add to the tool collection!
(At least that’s what I tell myself every time i am wrenching)

 

[roaniecowpony]

A job like this is a perfectly valid reason to add to the tool collection!
(At least that’s what I tell myself every time i am wrenching)

Right? I don't think I even own a 3/8" breaker bar. Although I have probably 4 or 5 breaker bars in 1/2" drive.

 

[SadRobot]

Got that pesky cat bolt off. Daylight and fresh mind helps. I was above/on the engine with a 10mm gear wrench and had someone below guiding it on the bolt. No real problem.

Detorquing the head bolts...my 3/8 breaker bar was bending like a wet noodle under the cheater bar. Rather than break it, seems like a good excuse to go out and buy a 1/2 breaker bar finally.

I remember that bolt being a huge pain. Good you got it out. I feel like when you leave it for a bit and come back to it fresh that does help.

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