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Head gasket prevention?

Sportacus

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Not sure if I'm protecting mine, but I'm a firm believer these engines run too hot. Heat reduces emissions...great, but high coolant temp causes other problems. I've upgraded my '25 Sports S 3.6 with the Mishimoto radiator & 185° thermostat, and the RPM Extreme fan controller. I never see temps above 195°, and usually they're around mid 180s. Also, use a TRUE synthetic oil, with PAO & ester base, like Redline or Amzoil, not a "fake" synthetic, which are hydrocracked, refined dino oil. Maybe these help, maybe they don't, but they're fairly cheap insurance opposed to a replacement engine...
doesnt the mishimoto and other aftermarket radiators have issues with leaking though? Im sure not all but it seems a bit common.
 
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Blacksport

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The Mishimoto is so much better quality, all aluminum TIG welded, no self-tapping screws, all machined bolts, perfect fit despite more rows and more coolant capacity.

My advice...do the thermostat & the RPM Extreme fan controller first. Those will cool your engine. Add the radiator when your stock one goes bad or the Christmas cash comes in from the relatives.
 
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ajbarbier

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The Mishimoto is so much better quality, all aluminum TIG welded, no self-tapping screws, all machined bolts, perfect fit despite more rows and more coolant capacity.

My advice...do the thermostat & the RPM Extreme fan controller first. Those will cool your engine. Add the radiator when your stock one goes bad or the Christmas cash comes in from the relatives.
I got the JScan app and I can override and turn the fans on high whenever- can I just do this instead? I don’t know how comfortable I feel splicing into the PCM on a car I’m still paying for :/

Can you link the 185 thermostat please?
 

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Blacksport

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If you can control the fan, you're good. That's all the RPM Extreme does. I was a little scared about the splicing & soldering too... Just take 'em one at a time, wrap with elec tape, go to the next one.

Link to thermostats:

Mishimoto.com

RippMods.com (the one I have, part # bt-006)
 

EbyCreek

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I got the JScan app and I can override and turn the fans on high whenever- can I just do this instead? I don’t know how comfortable I feel splicing into the PCM on a car I’m still paying for :/

Can you link the 185 thermostat please?
[/QUOTE
This is from RPM Extreme
I would advise not installing an aftermarket lower temp thermostat for a few reasons.

One: The ECU is monitoring the engine temp and expects the engine to get up to temp in a set amount of time, if it doesn't then it sets a thermostat rationality code and turns on the check engine light. You would have to have the ECU reprogramed to remove this code.

Two: The engine may run at too low of a temp. In the winter your heat will not be as good.

Three: There has been a very high failure rate with the aftermarket thermostats not opening at the correct temps and some of them will actually stick closed at times and make the engine overheat. I have seen a lot of these failures, mainly with the JKs but I'm sure the JL-JT is similar. Thats why we only use OEM thermostats.

In my opinion, running the fan controller with the stock thermostat keeps the engine down in the 195 range and is a huge difference compared to where it ran stock.
 

Blacksport

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I agree, the RPM Extreme is designed to work with stock radiator & thermostat. Problem for me is, I already had the thermo & radiator installed, but still saw high temps, so I did the RPM Ex...

But I have none of the problems he brought up, the coolant temp gets over 185° quickly (which is above the cold start routine), it floats around 188° to 190-192° (I usually have the air on, which turns the fan on), no CEL, rarely need heat in S Florida, although the heater works fine, used it in a March cold snap.

But do the RPM Ex first, see how it works before you do the thermo...
 

Wraif

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Gee guess we were lucky, 120+K on ours and just started consuming coolant. No Oil Cooler failure either, No ticking either.
Give it time, not much time, but soon. If it’s drinking coolant, that’s going somewhere. Mine mixed with my engine oil and caused me to need a new engine at less than 50K. Check your oil, make sure it’s not an oil/coolant mixture, that doesn’t lubricate very well.
Just saying . . .
 

Graphite JL

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I just replaced mine on my 2018 at 85k miles. Passenger side cylinder 3 was leaking coolant. Once I tore into it, I noticed I needed 2 cams as well, it did not make any noise before, I caught them just in time. I replaced all 4 cams, since I had them out anyway, along with all of the lifters and rockers and oil cooler. Total was about $3300 in parts. I will say it also runs about 20 degrees cooler now, barely ever gets over 200.
 

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ajbarbier

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I just replaced mine on my 2018 at 85k miles. Passenger side cylinder 3 was leaking coolant. Once I tore into it, I noticed I needed 2 cams as well, it did not make any noise before, I caught them just in time. I replaced all 4 cams, since I had them out anyway, along with all of the lifters and rockers and oil cooler. Total was about $3300 in parts. I will say it also runs about 20 degrees cooler now, barely ever gets over 200.

How bad of a job was it? Looks absolutely brutal.
 
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ajbarbier

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So what I’m getting out of this- start saving 10k for a new engine
 

Graphite JL

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How bad of a job was it? Looks absolutely brutal.
It wasn't fun at all. I'm pretty good at turning wrenches and struggled on a few things. Getting the front cover off is a challenge, there is no where to be able to pry on it, heat is your friend. All in all it took me about 25 hours working a few hours at a time.
 
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ajbarbier

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It wasn't fun at all. I'm pretty good at turning wrenches and struggled on a few things. Getting the front cover off is a challenge, there is no where to be able to pry on it, heat is your friend. All in all it took me about 25 hours working a few hours at a time.
I’ve done timing belts on Subarus and things like that- if sh*t goes sideways, would you recommend working on it or just shell out for a new engine?

Also, where’d you find the guide on how to do such a thing
 

JayJLU

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Give it time, not much time, but soon. If it’s drinking coolant, that’s going somewhere. Mine mixed with my engine oil and caused me to need a new engine at less than 50K. Check your oil, make sure it’s not an oil/coolant mixture, that doesn’t lubricate very well.
Just saying . . .

No water in the oil but Did the repair; Mopar Reman Long Block - total was slightly over 7,900.. did get new clutch, Flywheel, pressure plate etc.. also the long block did not come with plugs so 6 of the high buck Mopars.. all in all , engine now 3y/100k warranty, clutch etc 2 yrs Mopar warranty and I had it done at my fav dealership so we have parts and labor coverage. Calculated just doing head gaskets and hope but if cams were needed looking at 5,500 so with 121k on the rig, we already decided this is a keeper forever before all the repairs. Can't trade for new for the 8K spent.
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