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MINNESOTA 68

MINNESOTA 68

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Jeep Wrangler JL Harbor freight hitch rack modifications DIY 1000008154

After cut top and placed it back on I used a board and a clamp to push the piece I cut against the edge and used a 3/16 drill bit to drill threw hole that was still there into the freshly cut piece. Then just put the bolts and nuts back on.
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MINNESOTA 68

MINNESOTA 68

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Also I just used a pry bar to gently remove reflectors and then just pushed them back on after.
 

PhrogUSMC

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I have the larger black one from HF, and I'm pretty sure i can still open the tailgate with it mounted, but it's not a big deal either way because I only mount it when I'm going to have gear strapped to it, which negates the ability to use the tailgate anyway.
 

Wulfgott

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I have the aluminum one as well. I like what you did here. However, I will still most likely get the many swing away hitch attachments as the door still can not be opened when it is loaded with anything that I would be putting on it. I have my short extension which brings it just about to the same distance out as the spare tire is already and it is (semi) permanent now. So if I could find a swing out extension that is about the same size I would just install that and leave it.

Like I said, I do like what you did though.
 

AnnDee4444

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FWIW: The MaxxHaul 70107 works with no modifications: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/hitch-rack-that-fits-perfect-with-spare-tire.54388/

Thought I would share, this might help someone out someday.

I recently bought a MaxxHaul 70107 hitch mounted rack (which looks to be identical to the Tow Tuff TTF-1953SC). It's clearly not the most heavy duty rack, but it's decent for the $56 I paid to have it shipped to my door.

What's interesting about this rack is that it lines up with the spare tire indentation perfectly in the OEM steel bumper (probably also the plastic bumper too)

IMG_20200709_182450.webp

IMG_20200709_182558.webp
87dd56_faa56a2b43a14c41ab4ebf3644bb408c.webp
 

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After looking for a decent hitch rack I decided to try this one from Harbor freight:

1000008178.jpg



The walls were to tall for it to work on my 2024 rubicon so I decided to chop it. After it was assembled I measured down 3 inches from top all the way around

1000008148.jpg


Chopped it with an angle grinder then drilled new holes and bolted the bottom back on

1000008166.jpg


This got me to about 4 inches of height and it now works perfect

1000008176.jpg
1000008177.jpg


This took about 2 hours all together but that included time to figure it out. All together for under 100 dollars I am very happy with this rack.
That’s pretty cool…but once you put anything in it…the problem remains, correct? You won’t be able to use the tailgate, or am I missing something.
 
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MINNESOTA 68

MINNESOTA 68

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That’s pretty cool…but once you put anything in it…the problem remains, correct? You won’t be able to use the tailgate, or am I missing something.
We go on long trips, when we get to place we are staying just for the night you can take the cooler off open the back grab some bags and in the morning, put the bags back and cooler on and go. Just increases the flexibility, and it is easier to just put a fully loaded cooler onto the rack than shoving ot into to back.
 

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I’m thinking of doing something similar. Thanks for the info!
 

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Has anyone drilled a new hole for the hitch pin? Using older JK wheels and tires I need an inch to clear the spare.
 

dlong1119

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I'm using a 60"W steel carrier that I picked up used from Marketplace. It has the short sides so it clears the tire no problem, but sits too close to the body to make it really useful. I grabbed a piece of 2" square tubing from the metal supplier and replaced the main tube that goes into the receiver with a longer piece so that the entire tray is beyond the tire. I have a large plastic tote with wheels on one end that I put on it and then I can load that up with whatever overflow we have. If rear compartment access is needed you just take that tote off, or take it off when you get to your destination and wheel it inside.
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