c20040215
Well-Known Member
Yes. Noticeably less.Any thoughts on the lower front control arm drop brackets, and if they'll influence brake dive in a meaningful way?
Sponsored
Yes. Noticeably less.Any thoughts on the lower front control arm drop brackets, and if they'll influence brake dive in a meaningful way?
My limited understanding says yes, they will help, but I'm not an expert on solid axle vehicle suspension, only starting to learn. I'll wait on comments of more knowledgeable peopleAny thoughts on the lower front control arm drop brackets, and if they'll influence brake dive in a meaningful way?
Cuz I know you geek out on this stuff:Any thoughts on the lower front control arm drop brackets, and if they'll influence brake dive in a meaningful way?
Thanks for this... I haven't seen the calculator he references before.Cuz I know you geek out on this stuff:
Just sayin…Thanks for this... I haven't seen the calculator he references before.
Not sure if it's a good idea yet but I have been contemplating drop brackets on my 1/2" lifted JLR, specifically for brake dive. All the brackets are designed for +2" of lift... so if I can find one that relocates the lower arm 2" down it would be like stock Sport control arm angles. Some even have an adjustable upper mount for fine tuning.
Downsides are obvious: it could rub more with my already low ride height. However it might help the 2-door's tendency to want to wheelie up hills, and might also keep from scraping as much going downhill (which is when I scrape the most). And of course the potential on-road improvements.
Pros and cons though on the scraping - at least the scraping would be on a cheap/cheap-ish bolted on bracket instead of a bracket welded to the frame, a bracket that could be replaced in an afternoon. But if you're at stock-ish ride height, definitely going to be in that thing often probably.Just sayin…
![]()
Man you need to start a thread of all of your geek info, I love it! Learn something every time I come across it.Cuz I know you geek out on this stuff:
@AnnDee4444 put a lot of work into this one: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...gs-suspension-information-chart-matrix.66591/Man you need to start a thread of all of your geek info, I love it! Learn something every time I come across it.

I have my own copy of his spreadsheet saved and used it extensively prior to ordering my Accutune fox 2.5s lol I have "3.5-4 lift" shocks on my jeep with only 2" of lift thanks to that spreadsheet lol@AnnDee4444 put a lot of work into this one: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...gs-suspension-information-chart-matrix.66591/
To prevent adding more bump, may want to consider either fabbing or sourcing the Bilstein remote resi lower brackets. Similiar to the MC's, but move the bottom mount only outward and not upward.The Mount Zion video explains it. We went with the front remote reservoirs first, but the long MC links impacted the hose at flex, and the shop cautioned against it. the shop was in touch with both MC and Fox as we thought through options.
I was concerned of damping / valving differences. Fwiw, As others mentioned…MC puts the same shock at all four corners. These have the adjustable valves. I haven’t messed with them really at all, but I probably will. Middle setting for both dials on all four corners. The suspension feels more taut compared to mushy factory 392 setup. My last jeep had 2.5 Kings remote reservoirs. And so my points of comparison are - standard JLUR, JLUR on Kings and Evo coils, standard 392, and now the 392 on the MC coils and fox 2.5 resis. I’m super happy with it, maybe I don’t what I’m missing. If anything, I could have Accutune valve all four of them for my setup, but I don’t think that’s something I care about at the moment. Fwiw, I tried working with Accutune when setting up my jeep, but they didn’t have much going on for the 392 at the time, especially in my scenario of pairing the MC 3.5 with Fox shocks. I wanted to buy shocks from them, truly could not.
Some test fittings pics with dsc rears up-front. You can see here that more bump pucks are needed.
![]()
![]()
![]()
And flexing it out …
![]()
![]()
![]()
mt zion did lots for me here. The MC lift and fox shocks, fox front hydro bumps, MC steering and track bars, Woods front and rear shafts, RCV front axle shaft (rear is stock). 4.88 gearing. LOD signature rails. Control arm and shock skids, diff cover and skids.
Just a great shop to work with. Pics and texts and calls throughout everything. I live in Virginia with 5 or 6 shops in proximity, but I drive the 100 miles to Mt Zion and will continue.
I daily drive this and weekend trail it. Need a bellypan before I take it to Rausch Creek probably, but there are trails in the area that I can have fun on without risking my oil pan. I’m 99% sure im going with Artec kit, just saving my nickels.
Ha, same here.I have my own copy of his spreadsheet saved and used it extensively prior to ordering my Accutune fox 2.5s lol I have "3.5-4 lift" shocks on my jeep with only 2" of lift thanks to that spreadsheet lol
a good portion of the uptravel is indeed in the bumps. You only hear / feel a click, and not noticeable at all off-road. id Love more up travel, but I’m not dissatisfied tbh. 392s and XRs have super long bump towers to begin with, limiting travel. I think I gained up travel.Whew, 19.4 compressed plus the inch or so from the lower shock mounts. Prolly 3" of uptravel and 10" down. With half of the uptravel in the bumps.
I guess it makes complete sense to swap out $3,000 worth of shocks because the $50 MC sway links contact the hose as installed.
![]()
Apologize for my tone, was more a reaction to the presentation in the MZ video.a good portion of the uptravel is indeed in the bumps. You only hear / feel a click, and not noticeable at all off-road. id Love more up travel, but I’m not dissatisfied tbh. 392s and XRs have super long bump towers to begin with, limiting travel. I think I gained up travel.
The consideration was that using the piggyback rears up front don’t really sacrifice anything, other than minor valving differences that can be overcome by dialing in the valves, or more dedicated approaches ala Accutune. We did talk about using other sway links, I brought that up, but considered that those long links make use of the full coil, allow max droop. Changing that up seemed more overall impactful than running the piggybacks up front. It was less about 50 dollar links versus 3k shocks.