First Oil Change Thoughts and a Question

[Rhinebeck01]

The tightness of the oil filter cap does not affect its sealing ability, so long as it is fully screwed on. Most important is that you put the O ring in the right groove.

@mwilk012

YUP!

O-ring in the right groove is very very important!
It's also a good idea to put some oil on the new o-ring before you roll it onto the oil filter cap housing..

I always tell guys/gals here, when you unscrew/remove the 68191350AA Oil Filter Housing Cap..... as soon as you remove it from the JL/JT.... lay it on a piece of cardboard or whatever and take a close up cellphone pic of it with the oil filter on it....which clearly shows the exact groove the o-ring is residing in....

This way you have a reference as to where the o-ring need to go. It's easy to get distracted and then have an oh chittt moment in regard to which groove did the o=ring go into.

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[garyji]

I use the Stahlbus drain valve and love it. Either one makes life very easy for the oil change.

G.

 

[MyDaughters20JL]

@jjvincent

Not sure what oil drain valves you have dealt with but for many many years I have use Fumoto Oil Drain Valves on heavy equipment, Harley's, airplanes, tractors, truck tractors....many different brand automobiles/trucks and have never ever had an issue.... plugging or a valve failure of any sort..

I've have a couple of vehicles.... vehicles that are out in the field... the elements... rain, snow, ice, mud and such for years and years and have had the same Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on them..... and never any issues with clogging or not working or any issues with those valves.

Yes, at oil change time the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve is wiped down/cleaned ...

Yes, if you crush rocks and such with your JL/JT you might not want to use an oil drain valve.. unless you have a guard that protects the oil pan/that area... many guys/gals do run with such guards.

.

on top of this, Fumoto makes a plug for the output of the drain: if getting plugged is that big of a concern, I'd bet that a mere $2.50 would be a good investment for a nipple cap as far as peace of mind goes.

I run mine with both the lock and the cap: with my luck, I can never be too careful

 

[mwilk012]

pop the hood. If no massive oil leak, it’s good.

 

[mwilk012]

@mwilk012

YUP!

O-ring in the right groove is very very important!
It's also a good idea to put some oil on the new o-ring before you roll it onto the oil filter cap housing..

I always tell guys/gals here, when you unscrew/remove the 68191350AA Oil Filter Housing Cap..... as soon as you remove it from the JL/JT.... lay it on a piece of cardboard or whatever and take a close up cellphone pic of it with the oil filter on it....which clearly shows the exact groove the o-ring is residing in....

This way you have a reference as to where the o-ring need to go. It's easy to get distracted and then have an oh chittt moment in regard to which groove did the o=ring go into.

.

We had a Chevy Equinox come in a while back from another state, traveling, that had recently had an oil change in south Texas. He came in for running rough, engine noisy. O ring was on the wrong spot on the cap, almost no oil left in engine, and what was there was half metal. Poor kid.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

.

We had a Chevy Equinox come in a while back from another state, traveling, that had recently had an oil change in south Texas. He came in for running rough, engine noisy. O ring was on the wrong spot on the cap, almost no oil left in engine, and what was there was half metal. Poor kid.

Yikes.....

I think it was this forum or on the JT forum that a guy posted last year......he forgot to remove old o-ring, installed a another o-ring and when he started the JL/JT, chitt/oil went everywhere..

I guess that's the way you learn.... oh my...................................................

 

[blnewt]

I put a bit of oil on the filter cap threads, since it's plastic on plastic it tends to bind up a bit when snugging down. I pretty much just tighten it up by hand now, similar to the extra force used when tightening down a metal canister filter, about a 1/4 turn past snug. I used the torque wrench to verify and it's real close to the same.

 

[jjvincent]

@jjvincent

Not sure what oil drain valves you have dealt with but for many many years I have use Fumoto Oil Drain Valves on heavy equipment, Harley's, airplanes, tractors, truck tractors....many different brand automobiles/trucks and have never ever had an issue.... plugging or a valve failure of any sort..

I've have a couple of vehicles.... vehicles that are out in the field... the elements... rain, snow, ice, mud and such for years and years and have had the same Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on them..... and never any issues with clogging or not working or any issues with those valves.

Yes, at oil change time the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve is wiped down/cleaned ...

Yes, if you crush rocks and such with your JL/JT you might not want to use an oil drain valve.. unless you have a guard that protects the oil pan/that area... many guys/gals do run with such guards.

.

Fumoto is what I've seen for many years and on all sorts of cars. It's that it does need to be cleaned and that's where the issue is. Many just don't do that and thus, you see problems. Again, when they get damaged, they can either turn into inoperable or they break off. Many are dilligent when using them yet when others are not, it creates a problem.

 

[JasonInDLH]

Fumoto is what I've seen for many years and on all sorts of cars. It's that it does need to be cleaned and that's where the issue is. Many just don't do that and thus, you see problems. Again, when they get damaged, they can either turn into inoperable or they break off. Many are dilligent when using them yet when others are not, it creates a problem.

I’ll do a quick blast of BrakeClean at each oil change. That should keep ‘er clean.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

I’ll do a quick blast of BrakeClean at each oil change. That should keep ‘er clean.

@JasonInDLH

Just wiping the Fumoto with a shop rag is all I have ever done over the years... of spraying with water or whatever was handy and wiping it with a rag.

I've had Fumoto's on equipment working in swamps, mud, you name it ... daily for months and never ever have had any Fumoto valve failures.

Only caveat ...... DO use/keep a metal hose clamp (preferred) or Fumoto clip on the valve release. A decent metal hose clip will keep nitwits from opening the valve without a strong pliers..... a hose clamp will keep tall grass from possibly snagging the valve release and opening the valve. (Rare)

Anyway, for added security... use a hose clamp on the valve.

.

 

[JasonInDLH]

@JasonInDLH

Just wiping the Fumoto with a shop rag is all I have ever done over the years... of spraying with water or whatever was handy and wiping it with a rag.

I've had Fumoto's on equipment working in swamps, mud, you name it ... daily for months and never ever have had any Fumoto valve failures.

Only caveat ...... DO use/keep a metal hose clamp (preferred) or Fumoto clip on the valve release. A decent metal hose clip will keep nitwits from opening the valve without a strong pliers..... a hose clamp will keep tall grass from possibly snagging the valve release and opening the valve. (Rare)

Anyway, for added security... use a hose clamp on the valve.

.

Thanks for the info! I always thought the little Fumoto plastic locking clip was Mickey Mouse and will do what you suggest with the hose clamp.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I've used quick drain valves in the past. I have a Stanbaus or such laying around for another vehicle. In the end, they were more trouble than just a simple plug. The plug takes literally seconds to remove. It's not an issue IMO. A quick drain is actually a slower flowing path than just removing the plug. I can drain my oil in about half the time without the QD. I also don't like the exposure of a quick drain on my JL (no aftermarket skidplates).

 

[JasonInDLH]

I've used quick drain valves in the past. I have a Stanbaus or such laying around for another vehicle. In the end, they were more trouble than just a simple plug. The plug takes literally seconds to remove. It's not an issue IMO. A quick drain is actually a slower flowing path than just removing the plug. I can drain my oil in about half the time without the QD. I also don't like the exposure of a quick drain on my JL (no aftermarket skidplates).

I used the Fumoto valve for the first time on my wife’s Yukon and I didn’t realize how long it takes to drain. It was like watching paint cure. Anyways…I simply did other stuff in the garage while it drained, so no biggie for me.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I used the Fumoto valve for the first time on my wife’s Yukon and I didn’t realize how long it takes to drain. It was like watching paint cure. Anyways…I simply did other stuff in the garage while it drained, so no biggie for me.

It's not a huge thing, but once I commit to changing oil in a vehicle, I just want to do it in an expeditious time. I put on nitrile gloves and just want to finish without taking them off and putting on another pair or reusing the old dirty pair. On my truck, I can do the change in about 15 minutes total, not counting disposing of the oil. I suppose I could knock 10 minutes out of that if I was doing this in a pit stop for a race. I spend a little more time with the JL, since I've only changed it a few times.

I found that with a QD, I had to warm up the engine oil by driving first. It helps a lot in the drain speed.

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