Etorque usage info

[Odyssey USA]

There is brake regeneration in this system. It's somewhere in the owners manual too on that regen

It’s been a while but I thought I’d read/watched videos with engineers saying that it does. Not sure.

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[The Last Cowboy]

I see now, it uses the BSG to reduce speed during light braking, using the drag to create charging power. Under hard braking, the disc brakes are fully engaged. It's not regen braking in the sense that full hybrids or EVs are. Same principle, using the electric motor, just that the motor on an eTorque is fairly small.

 

[Jeep Wick]

Hello,
I've been trying to wrap my head around this etorque system on my 22 rubicon and was hoping for some people to talk things out with.

It sounds like etorque is sometimes called a mild hybrid system and as such can punch the wheels with some high torque off the line similar to the 4xe. Most of the people who have mentioned this say it only works for half a rotation of the wheels or something like this but why not more, especially in an off-road situation like climbing an obstacle or recovering a vehicle? Is there any way to control this like do i need to go pedal to the metal to get all 130ft lbs of torque on takeoff? Does this system only activate after ess has activated (so turning it off means no etorque components are in play)


Another feature I've heard of is regenerative braking. I get the impression that this is actively slowing the jeep down during braking and may even be activating while coasting. It would be nice to know when this is activating and when not. Do I need to keep my foot on the gas just to keep etorque from activating the regenerative braking system.

Because the etorque system is discharging and charging by collecting wasted energy from some other systems, using it to the fullest extent on takeoff should be a way to improve mpg usage in city driving and disabling it during long highway cruising could also potentially help improve mpg but aside from some marketing bs on the window sticker this system is completely undocumented.

It seems like if you could bring up a gauge for the etorque battery level you could see some indication of discharge / recharge cycles and learn a few things from that. It would be great to have some controls to request more / less torque generation if that's actually a thing with this system.

I drive with the ESS off (Tazer) on my 22. The etorque is still at work. I hear it helps up to 2000 rpm? I feel the difference between this engine and the conventional 3.6 I had in the 2020. Absolutely better acceleration. It also slows you down by doing regen with engine braking, it's quite noticeable in a good way. I like your idea of a gauge, but I think the system operates at max capacity. The 48v battery is not very large. I didn't think I would like it this much, but having lived with it I wouldn't change a thing.

 

[azjl#3]

This thread...
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/totally-geeky-e-torque-motor-info.110705/



What I hope is happening somewhere is someone is designing a deletion kit for the E-Torque system.

Boom, I feel all I am doing is dragging around a 48v charging system and huge battery I dont need and doesn't improve anything. That with additional cooling, for the battery. Why not for the tranny and engine?? I dont notice anything accelerating, and only problem is my jeep shuts off before coming to a stop and then restarts. Do not notice this 1/2 wheel turn of 90ft/lbs.

 

[ParisJeep]

I feel almost turbo quality take-off at some red lights and barely noticeable takeoffs on others. It may have to do with the battery level.... I really can't explain it because it seems really inconsistent even with a full stop and the ess Indicator on. Perhaps it's pedal sensitive and I'm not mashing it hard enough (when I do want it but don't get it) or there is some other variables involved.

It would be interesting to know if this system can actually chirp the wheels on takeoff. I feel like it's close sometimes. Maybe it's some sort of software limit. I haven't been able to do it in normal driving conditions. I'm running 35"s right now.

From a video linked earlier he mentioned that the etorque system is disabled by all sorts of different factors like if the air conditioning needs to turn on, or the hood is open or seatbelt sensor or door sensor or brake pedal position sensor. It seems vague though, if the seatbelt sensor disabled it (and there is no alternator) wouldn't that drain the battery and kill the vehicle over a prolonged period? Maybe he really was just referring to ess and not the underlying etorque system which just leads to many more questions

I definitely have noticed the engine will stay turned off longer if you disable the air conditioning at a red light. It may get noticably warmer in the cabin but at $7.00 a gallon maybe it's worth it at some intersections.

 

[azjl#3]

thats my complaint, erratic operating conditions.

I been thinking, to disable, some very small cheap lead acid 48v battery in place of huge expensive one. Bracket so 120amp 12v alternator can fit on 48v bracket. Converter that changes 12v to 48v wired to plug 48v gen/alt connected to. That results in computers still seeing the 48v being made and used. Probably still need some code writers though, anyone?

Only concern is at some point it will try to regen, or help with start stop. Fix again, disable start stop, no need for 48v or regen, not to sure on 48v torque help on start, maybe disabled with ESS?. Lastly, disco and plug the plumbing of AC lines to rear end.

Thoughts? Yes, buying one without etorque, easier cheaper, we know

 

[Tncdrew]

thats my complaint, erratic operating conditions.

I been thinking, to disable, some very small cheap lead acid 48v battery in place of huge expensive one. Bracket so 120amp 12v alternator can fit on 48v bracket. Converter that changes 12v to 48v wired to plug 48v gen/alt connected to. That results in computers still seeing the 48v being made and used. Probably still need some code writers though, anyone?

Only concern is at some point it will try to regen, or help with start stop. Fix again, disable start stop, no need for 48v or regen, not to sure on 48v torque help on start, maybe disabled with ESS?. Lastly, disco and plug the plumbing of AC lines to rear end.

Thoughts? Yes, buying one without etorque, easier cheaper, we know

No disrespect, but seriously, all those mods you suggest sound like a horrible idea. I get that you may not like the complication of the system, so maybe find a different Jeep without e-torque?
I notice all the functions that it performs on mine (in a positive way), and it works well.

 

[azjl#3]

Agreed, but now is not the market to sell or buy something else, so when warranty expires, off that stuff comes off, and I wager someone has a delete for it, maybe even Jeep since they stopped installing it, what’s that say….

 

[Odyssey USA]

Well after 95k miles, I did a fluid/filter swap on the transmission. Based on experience with other transmissions, I was surprised how little clutch metal/drum material was on the magnets. I can’t compare to a non etorque and everyone drives different but I’ve just taken over this Jeep from my wife and she’s heavy on the throttle and braking. Maybe the etorque has helped by RPM matching on shifts, maybe it wasn’t. The fluid was black but the stream coming out of the pan wasn’t pitch black. Fwiw…

 

[alphawolff]

Agreed, but now is not the market to sell or buy something else, so when warranty expires, off that stuff comes off, and I wager someone has a delete for it, maybe even Jeep since they stopped installing it, what’s that say….

The cost to delete and retrofit the vehicle far outweighs the cost of simply selling it and buying one that doesn't have it. I doubt a working delete kit will ever be developed. You're trying to find a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.

If the e-torque was the only engine option period then I'm sure someone would come along with a delete kit, but that's not the case. If someone developed one they'd be lucky to sell a dozen a year, and I doubt they'd make any money on the individual kit. It'd have to, again, be priced low enough to where it makes sense to buy & install it rather than just buying a different Jeep.


Honestly, the e-torque was smart for what it was designed to do. Stop/start had to become a thing and as we all know we absolutely hate it. e-torque improves reliability of the system massively in addition to making the entire stop/start event almost seamless. It was a hold over technology while they worked on the 4XE. The additional torque and potential fuel economy benefits the system offered was just the cherry on top the engineers came up with to get the program green lit.

I personally think the eTorque is an awesome system, but I'd never want to buy one with the intention of owning it for years and years. The additional complexity of the system adds a lot of failure points, and parts will become harder to find as it was only made for a few years. In 15 years a failed PPU may just total the vehicle due to part availability. Same as our early 2000s hybrids like the Aspen.

 

[MCMXLI]

I read up on eTorque and concluded it's a lot of added complexity (and expense to fix) compared to the benefits it provides.

 

[Wbino]

No complaints by any e torque guys.
Love it.
I don't know if it adds any benefit to the regular battery but I have a 2021 and still running with the original one.

 

[AnnDee4444]

I don't know if it adds any benefit to the regular battery but I have a 2021 and still running with the original one.

I think It will cover for a failing 12V battery, or at least it did on my 2.0. ESS stopped working for about 6 months and I couldn't figure out why, then decided to replace the 12V battery and ESS immediately started working again. My guess is there was too much current draw from the 12V battery which forced the ESS into a perpetual state of "Not Ready".

And iirc, I think the 2.0 is 90 ft lbs and the V6 130? It’s been almost 4 years since I dug into this here and shared some info I found.

2.0 = 70 lb.ft.
3.6 = 90 lb.ft.
5.7 = 130 lb.ft.

I'm guessing that the torque differences are based off of the rotating assembly weight. It takes more torque to spin a 3.6 from 0-idle than a 2.0. Also the 2.0 seems to have a looser torque converter, so maybe instead of 0-idle they targeted 0-1500 to get past the boost threshold quicker.

 

[AnnDee4444]

Instead of a full eTorque delete, I would prefer an aftermarket mount for two 24v batteries and some air cooled DC-DC converter. Then it should be possible to remove the under-vehicle cooling lines.

 

[nagoya10]

We have eTorque on our ‘23 High Tide and it’s awesome. Go down a real steep hill, you won’t even need brakes. It doesn’t regenerate as hard on level or lightly sloped roads. Will help in panic braking quite a bit.

Unlike nearly all of the world, I like start/stop. I almost never shut it off and I even took our 2019 Grand Cherokee to the dealer (something I almost never do as I do nearly all my own work) when the start/stop warning light came on and it quit working. Fortunately it was just the hood switch and its connector that probably had corrosion but I had no way to diagnose the problem beyond the battery. I had already changed both batteries previously, got 4 1/2 years out of the small battery and 5 1/2 out of the main battery. Cover up that hood switch if you are washing under the hood, I think that’s what did mine in from years of washing the engine.

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