Backup Lights

[dapipp]

I generally run 16 or in some cases 14, no telling what changes I may make in the future. I also carry the ground wire back to the engine compartment to one of the grounding posts next to where the Aux wires are in the engine compartment. This makes chasing "grounding" issues much easier to troubleshoot if necessary.

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[wranglerbro]

I’m planning on adding a couple of backup lights and I’m planning on splicing into the reverse wire on the 7 pin harness. I figure I will have less issues there than the actual reverse lights. I’m also not connecting it to the aux wires, at least not for now.

What’s the best way to splice the wire? I haven’t read great things about T taps, and it seems like a difficult location to solder. Especially for my poor soldering skills. It’s a pretty exposed area so I expect it to be exposed to a lot of water, salt, and dust.

Installed these today. What a difference! They are especially useful if you're running a 37" spare on a swing arm carrier that blocks a significant portion of the the OEM reverse lights output. No tapping or splicing of the factory wire was required either.

The C1R operates as a reverse light, running light with the tail lights, and 4th brake light. The SS3 Sport Pod (flood pattern) was wired to only come on as a reverse light. I did this by installing the below DD 7 pin trailer harness and modifying one end with a 2 pin connector for the SS3 pod:

https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-c1r-7-pin-dual-output-trailer-wiring-harness.html

This made for a super clean install and got rid of the need to tap/splice into any OEM wiring. Plus, my tow hitch wiring remains functional.

Here's another 7 Pin trailer wiring harness that could be used for similar auxiliary lighting applications that do not need the brake light function.

C1:
https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-7-pin-dual-output-trailer-wiring-harness.html

Super happy with the result!

Pic of C1R running light with tails (B/W - exposure down):

SS3 Pod Wiring:

 

[Cyber_Jeeper]

Installed these today. What a difference! They are especially useful if you're running a 37" spare on a swing arm carrier that blocks a significant portion of the the OEM reverse lights output. No tapping or splicing of the factory wire was required either.

The C1R operates as a reverse light, running light with the tail lights, and 4th brake light. The SS3 Sport Pod (flood pattern) was wired to only come on as a reverse light. I did this by installing the below DD 7 pin trailer harness and modifying one end with a 2 pin connector for the SS3 pod:

https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-c1r-7-pin-dual-output-trailer-wiring-harness.html

This made for a super clean install and got rid of the need to tap/splice into any OEM wiring. Plus, my tow hitch wiring remains functional.

Here's another 7 Pin trailer wiring harness that could be used for similar auxiliary lighting applications that do not need the brake light function.

C1:
https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-7-pin-dual-output-trailer-wiring-harness.html

Super happy with the result!

Pic of C1R running light with tails (B/W - exposure down):

SS3 Pod Wiring:

I probably would have gone with the C1, but it didn’t exist when I did my mods. Not as bright, but less work and much more temporary of a mod.
Are the SS3’s too bright? After looking at many of the pictures in this thread I was worried about going too bright or too much of a spot. I don’t like the washed out look it can give in the reverse camera.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

I don’t have time this second to give you a write up on all of this, but here is the gauge of wire and the number of amps and watts they’ll handle. 18 gauge is more than enough, and it’s easy to handle and terminate. You need 2 conductor (one for positive, one for negative), so a spool of that is perfect. There are ground studs on the fender in the engine bay next to the battery, next to the aux switch wiring. This is a very simple job. You need flex loom as well to protect your wire run. Call me if you want me to walk you through it.


14 -- 11.8 amps (162 watts)
16 -- 7.4 amps (102 watts)
18 -- 4.6 amps (63 watts)

Bob Holthaus
St. Louis MO
314-680-2624

Really appreciate the information!

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

I generally run 16 or in some cases 14, no telling what changes I may make in the future. I also carry the ground wire back to the engine compartment to one of the grounding posts next to where the Aux wires are in the engine compartment. This makes chasing "grounding" issues much easier to troubleshoot if necessary.

Thanks for the help! I think I'm confused based on different suggestions/answers regarding the grounding point. The Aux 3 is a single wire according to the videos I watched. I understand about grounding the wire back to the engine compartment. But don't understand some of the earlier suggestions of grounding to the rear of the jeep.

 

[mrtm1970]

Thanks for the help! I think I'm confused based on different suggestions/answers regarding the grounding point. The Aux 3 is a single wire according to the videos I watched. I understand about grounding the wire back to the engine compartment. But don't understand some of the earlier suggestions of grounding to the rear of the jeep.

You can either ground to the rear or run the ground wire back to the engine compartment terminal post. To ground to the rear, either find another ground post (I believe there are ones behind the rear lights) or as others have done, use a self taping screw into the frame through a ring terminal crimped or soldered negative wire/s end.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

You can either ground to the rear or run the ground wire back to the engine compartment terminal post. To ground to the rear, either find another ground post (I believe there are ones behind the rear lights) or as others have done, use a self taping screw into the frame through a ring terminal crimped or soldered negative wire/s end.

Thanks. In this case, do I twist the two conductors together and connect them to the Aux 3? This is the part I got confused due to my lack of electrical knowledge and experience.

 

[bobholthaus]

It’s cleaner to run your ground to the engine compartment, because any wire exposed to the elements on the rear of the jeep has the possibility of corroding/rusting much faster. Use your two conductor and bring it all the way into your engine bay and connect the positive part of it to aux three wire and the negative side of it to the ground post on the fender next to your battery. I strongly suggest using heat shrink butt connectors that are completely sealed to the elements. Molex make some called Perma Seal that are worth the weight in gold for Jeeping and what we subject our vehicles to.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

It’s cleaner to run your ground to the engine compartment, because any wire exposed to the elements on the rear of the jeep has the possibility of corroding/rusting much faster. Use your two conductor and bring it all the way into your engine bay and connect the positive part of it to aux three wire and the negative side of it to the ground post on the fender next to your battery. I strongly suggest using heat shrink butt connectors that are completely sealed to the elements. Molex make some called Perma Seal that are worth the weight in gold for Jeeping and what we subject our vehicles to.

Got it! Now I have a better understanding. Thank you for your kind help and being patient ?

 

[mrtm1970]

Thanks. In this case, do I twist the two conductors together and connect them to the Aux 3? This is the part I got confused due to my lack of electrical knowledge and experience.

Yup … twist 2 positive wires from the lights together and twist/crimp/solder them to the single wire for Aux and ground.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

It’s cleaner to run your ground to the engine compartment, because any wire exposed to the elements on the rear of the jeep has the possibility of corroding/rusting much faster. Use your two conductor and bring it all the way into your engine bay and connect the positive part of it to aux three wire and the negative side of it to the ground post on the fender next to your battery. I strongly suggest using heat shrink butt connectors that are completely sealed to the elements. Molex make some called Perma Seal that are worth the weight in gold for Jeeping and what we subject our vehicles to.

Curious.... Have you ever gotten under a JL or JT with tow package and looked at the 7 pin harness back there? For the most part it's exposed to the elements..

I agree, running both power and ground up front is a valid way but an install with the ground at the rear is also a very valid way.

More often then not trouble shooting an iffy/bad ground, is way easier if the ground wire run is very short in length and also easy to access all of it.

To each his own but I do the ground close to the fixture and in the case of b/u lighting that means in the rear of the JL/JT. Done correctly there is no more inherent problems then when you ground up front.

Speaking of grounds up front... I know more guys that have broken off the factory painted over, ground points in the engine compartment.

I tell guys.... especially novices, if they want to ground simple lighting up front to just use the ground point in the pic below. It's not painted, it's not overtighted at the factory like other bolts ...you are not going to snap off the bolt and the bolt comes free, really easily..

 

[bobholthaus]

I’m not debating you at all. In the rear, you have to have bare steel, which is subject to rust. Do you drill a new hole? It is my opinion that for simplicity, keep your grounds in the engine bay (you’re using 2 conductor wire, so you’ve got in right in front of you). But to each their own. I’ve owned 7 trailers and I can tell you that rusty grounds cause a ton of headaches. I hardwire ground every device back to a known point of a good ground. No rust, no corrosion. It’s just my opinion, but it’s worked for me.

here is a write up on my old JK I did. I spent at least 8 hours wiring 4 switches (28 wires). I own a low volt company, and 12v wiring is my true passion. I’m not arm chair quarterbacking this, I promise. (And if that spot you show us above for ground is more reliable than the ground posts, then use that.)

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-...trattw-switch-writeup-rr-pillar-mount-263893/

 

[RogueArt22]

Wow! What a thread! In regard to backup lighting, I know what to do thanks to everyone here. (A pair of slim 6” bar lights on the bottom of my plastic bumper that will also connect to aux 3 with the double diode and grounded to the factory unpainted ground post.) I feel I should be buying a drink for @Rhinebeck01 before I get started.

Some extra thoughts came to mind that I will try to do at the same time; I’m going to get the iJDMTOY reflector lights that were red and have them function as regular running lights and brake lights after assuming that I can similarly tap into the tow harness like I will be doing for my backup lights. I am sure I will find a guide that says what wires to tap into. I will also be doing some similar tapping in the front because I also got some fender vent lights that act as turn signals and daytime running lamps. Thanks to all the contributors.

 

[AFD]

Are your flush SS3 pods mounted in the OEM plastic or steel bumper, and if either, what did you use to cut the opening?

Looks great with the C1 hitchpod. Really clean install!

 

[wranglerbro]

I probably would have gone with the C1, but it didn’t exist when I did my mods. Not as bright, but less work and much more temporary of a mod.
Are the SS3’s too bright? After looking at many of the pictures in this thread I was worried about going too bright or too much of a spot. I don’t like the washed out look it can give in the reverse camera.

Great question. I haven't done much testing yet, but it is bright. I'll keep this in mind the next time I go out at night and report back

Are your flush SS3 pods mounted in the OEM plastic or steel bumper, and if either, what did you use to cut the opening?

Looks great with the C1 hitchpod. Really clean install!

Thanks man! I actually installed the AEV rear bumper (pictured) that had the 3" cutout already in it. All I did was modify the DD bracket because it was an extremely tight fit to make it work. If I was still running the steel bumper, I might have gone Oracle. The only concern I would have there is the fitment, but it appears there are ways around it. If I was running the plastic rear bumper, I would consider the flush mount a set up if the C1/C1R weren't enough.

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