AEV Steering Stabilizer Review - Completely Solved My Wobble

[gato]

I know it’s colder than a well diggers ass up there, but a pic of this problem would be much appreciated……..

OK - here are the pictures at 90% passenger lock, in its current state after turning it back, adding washers, flipping sides (ended up with label upside down). As I said, I have the RockJock mount on the way, and hope to have this fixed by Christmas depending on UPS.

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[hoag4147]

Actually, I am a fan. I think it is an ingenious design and worked well on my JK. What is not cool is that Synergy pushed the same design on the JL that has a stock tierod that is 1 and 5/8" vs the JK 1 adn 3/8". There is simply not enough clearance on the JL.

Gotcha. So with a non through shaft stabilizer it makes contact with the tie rod when using the relocation bracket?

 

[gato]

Gotcha. So with a non through shaft stabilizer it makes contact with the tie rod when using the relocation bracket?

It does the same with a TS stabilizer as well. As a poster on this other thread reported with the FOX TS.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/fox-ts-steering-stabilizer-on-stock-steering.76496/

 

[hoag4147]

It does the same with a TS stabilizer as well. As a poster on this other thread reported with the FOX TS.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/fox-ts-steering-stabilizer-on-stock-steering.76496/

Lol. That’s my pic. Mine fit fine just had to rotate a bit to allow clearance.

 

[gato]

Lol. That’s my pic. Mine fit fine just had to rotate a bit to allow clearance.

Oooops - sorry, I meant to grab CoHiker's posts. Glad rotating it solved it for you. But even in your picture you can see that clearance is next to nil.

 

[Roky]

OK - here are the pictures at 90% passenger lock, in its current state after turning it back, adding washers, flipping sides (ended up with label upside down). As I said, I have the RockJock mount on the way, and hope to have this fixed by Christmas depending on UPS.

Gotcha brother, thanks for the pics…..

 

[hoag4147]

Oooops - sorry, I meant to grab CoHiker's posts. Glad rotating it solved it for you. But even in your picture you can see that clearance is next to nil.

Definitely tight. Not sure if makes a difference or not but I have a Sport not Rubi. Here is is a close up full cock passenger. Maybe 1/8” clearance ?

 

[gato]

Definitely tight. Not sure if makes a difference or not but I have a Sport not Rubi. Here is is a close up full cock passenger. Maybe 1/8” clearance ?

I'd love to have that clearance. I think the axle tubes and trackbar bracket are the same on Sport and Rubi. But the Rubi axle is wider, theoretically allowing for more steering lock with the same tire size and backspace. But I think vehicle to vehicle variability is the actual main factor.

And as I said, I don't want to berate Synergy. I like many of their products, just want to post in case another member has the same problem and things it is something unique to them.

 

[JAF1]

OK - here are the pictures at 90% passenger lock, in its current state after turning it back, adding washers, flipping sides (ended up with label upside down). As I said, I have the RockJock mount on the way, and hope to have this fixed by Christmas depending on UPS.

Just checking in for an update, were you able to get the Rockjock bracket installed? All good now? I'm really looking for a relocation bracket that works with the stock stabilizer and tie rod. But it appears my OE stabilizer might already be leaking so I might do both.

 

[gato]

Just checking in for an update, were you able to get the Rockjock bracket installed? All good now? I'm really looking for a relocation bracket that works with the stock stabilizer and tie rod. But it appears my OE stabilizer might already be leaking so I might do both.

Yes. I installed the RockJock bracket, and I really liked how it came up. There was good clearance.

But ultimately I decided that I was tired to fool around with the OEM tierod and since the SteerSmarts was on sale, I upgraded to that. During the upgrade I reverted to the synergy relocation bolt because it provided slightly better angles to the stabilizer. Both work great.

The SteerSmart tierod did not provide any apparent benefits other than more clearance for the relocated stabilizer, and, of-course being more robust.


P.S. both the OEM and SteerSmarts tierods are said to be 1 and 5/8" thick, but the synergy bracket was fully closed around the OEM tierod, but 1/8" open on the SteerSmarts one. So, I think the SteerSmarts is substantially thicker than the factory one.

 

[KNN]

The SteerSmart tierod did not provide any apparent benefits other than more clearance for the relocated stabilizer, and, of-course being more robust.

I've been following your posts about this closely. I'm running factory steering linkages and just ordered a Clayton relocation bracket for a new stabilizer. Unfortunately my DW returned before getting a chance to install the new stabilizer. I'm not sure if I should install the new stabilizer at this point as it might "mask" the underlying cause of the DW. Any recommendations? I'm glad your situation worked out.

 

[TxJeepers]

I've been following your posts about this closely. I'm running factory steering linkages and just ordered a Clayton relocation bracket for a new stabilizer. Unfortunately my DW returned before getting a chance to install the new stabilizer. I'm not sure if I should install the new stabilizer at this point as it might "mask" the underlying cause of the DW. Any recommendations? I'm glad your situation worked out.

Have you already replaced the factory track bar?

 

[gato]

I've been following your posts about this closely. I'm running factory steering linkages and just ordered a Clayton relocation bracket for a new stabilizer. Unfortunately my DW returned before getting a chance to install the new stabilizer. I'm not sure if I should install the new stabilizer at this point as it might "mask" the underlying cause of the DW. Any recommendations? I'm glad your situation worked out.

In my case, the incipient death wobble was caused by a combination of factory tierod/dragling end nuts being undertorqued. The torque settings on 3 of the 4 ends is 47 ftlbs steel on aluminum - I think they work themselves loose. AND steering stabilizer having a 1/8" play on center.

My suggestion to you is retorque the factory linkages to spec +10% AND put a good pressurized steering stabilizer. My theory is that a good stabilizer helps prevent things from working loose as often.

 

[KNN]

Have you already replaced the factory track bar?

Yes. I'm lifted on a 3.5" Clayton Overland+ lift. All new control arms and track bars front/rear.

In my case, the incipient death wobble was caused by a combination of factory tierod/dragling end nuts being undertorqued. The torque settings on 3 of the 4 ends is 47 ftlbs steel on aluminum - I think they work themselves loose. AND steering stabilizer having a 1/8" play on center.

My suggestion to you is retorque the factory linkages to spec +10% AND put a good pressurized steering stabilizer. My theory is that a good stabilizer helps prevent things from working loose as often.

Thanks. That torque value doesn't seem so high but so many threads on it being under torqued and causing issues.

 

[gato]

Thanks. That torque value doesn't seem so high but so many threads on it being under torqued and causing issues.

The issue is the steel bolts/nuts against the aluminum knuckle. As you flex you create play.

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