AEV Steering Stabilizer Review - Completely Solved My Wobble

[gato]

My Jeep is lifted on 37s, but still on factory steering linkage (tierod and draglink), and the steering alwyays (had bump steer and the one second wobble when hitting bumps). Tightening ball joints and linkage ends helped a little, but it always bothered me. Then I had a few instances of wobble that got triggered by a bump and would not stop unless the speed was drastically reduced.

Obviously, I have been going through the death-wobble check list and all is tight and and angles are good and Jeep drives like a dream - hands free on the highway at vMax.

Jeep has under 8,000 miles.

While the factory stabilizer is still in good working order and I tried a Teraflex twin tube one that is stiffer that one had too much small play with little resistance for small movements.

So I have a Fox thru-shaft neutral pressurized shock on order, but they have been back ordered forever.

So I decided to take a chance on a monotube pressurized damper - even though I'm against non-neutral stabilizers.

so read below....

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[gato]

Ordered the AEV JL Steering Damper done in partnership with Bilstein for $120 from Northridge. Got it delivered in 72 hours.

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/steering-damper/

All I can say is wow!!!! My steering wheel does not move at all. Completely solved/masked any hint of bump steer, shimmy or wobble hitting any of the bumps at any speed. Simply amazing.

Also is perfectly damped, not overly stiff, so it did not make the steering any heavier (nothing noticeable at all).

There is zero pull, which was a worry with a non-neutral stabilizer.





I'm extremely happy with it, and now happy with my steering again.

So passing along the info in case anyone want to try it.

 

[gato]

I should give a shout out to Northridge (and AEV):

1 - I think they are the only ones showing it in stock.

2 - They deliver it to New England one day SOONER than the estimated delivery time. And my stabilizer shipped from Kentucky the day the tornados hit those warehouses.

3 - The package includes an extra bolt in case you have a late JL model with new style stabilizer bolt.

4 - The stabilizer holes on both sides work out of the box with the Synergy and other similar relocation brackets - the factory and Teraflex and most others require you to drill out the holes to 1/2".

5 - Stabilizer looks amazing and is very high quality like the 5100/8100 AEV Bilstein shocks.



I probably sound like a paid poster - but, yeah, I'm super stocked to have solved my steering issue.

 

[cavguy]

I have the Bilstein steering stabilizer (non-AEV branded) on my JLUR. I am only running the Teraflex 1.5" spacer lift for now. I also don't have any bump steer, shimmy or wobble.

But in my experience the Bilstein stabilizer I have being pressurized and non-neutral causes a force which tends to push the wheel to the my passenger side. It's not a great force, but definitely noticeable.

Perhaps the AEV model is valved / pressurized differently?

 

[gato]

I have the Bilstein steering stabilizer (non-AEV branded) on my JLUR. I am only running the Teraflex 1.5" spacer lift for now. I also don't have any bump steer, shimmy or wobble.

But in my experience the Bilstein stabilizer I have being pressurized and non-neutral causes a force which tends to push the wheel to the my passenger side. It's not a great force, but definitely noticeable.

Perhaps the AEV model is valved / pressurized differently?

I tested it by compressing it by hand. It decompresses very,very slowly and I can easily stop it from decompressing with one finger (and I'm not super strong). Being OCD, I also jacked up the front to see if the stabilizer moved the wheels on it's own - it did not.

So, my conclusion is that pressure Bilstein put on the AEV stabilizer - I'd estimate at <50 PSI - is not sufficient to move the wheel. At least not sufficient to move my 37" KO2s.

 

[cavguy]

I tested it by compressing it by hand. It decompresses very,very slowly and I can easily stop it from decompressing with one finger (and I'm not super strong). Being OCD, I also jacked up the front to see if the stabilizer moved the wheels on it's own - it did not.

So, my conclusion is that pressure Bilstein put on the AEV stabilizer - I'd estimate at <50 PSI - is not sufficient to move the wheel. At least not sufficient to move my 37" KO2s.

I tried the same experiment with mine before I installed it and the force exerted on decompression on mine is a bit more than what you describe, though I can stop it with even pressure applied to the piston rod (I have to put my body weight into it for sure).

So the AEV one must be filled to a different pressure (less than the Bilstein one).

 

[gato]

I tried the same experiment with mine before I installed it and the force exerted on decompression on mine is a bit more than what you describe, though I can stop it with even pressure applied to the piston rod (I have to put my body weight into it for sure).

So the AEV one must be filled to a different pressure (less than the Bilstein one).

I have to say, being an engineer, and knowing that there is a non-zero force there, I did not want to install a non-neutral stabilizer. I was convinced there would be at least some pull like you described.

But I can't feel any - so pleasantly surprised.

Now, given how massive an improvement this stabilizer made, I'm thinking that the JL steering set up actually benefits from some constant pressure on the steering.

The change in feel and elimination of the wobbler, bump steer etc is simply out of proportion to the slightly different damping tune. The slight constant force must be playing a role.

 

[Jamrock]

I am curious. I have seen people use Synergy products to improve their steering. What type of analysis led you to choose this product instead?

An engineer's thought process is always useful.

What is a non-neutral stabilizer? What other types exist?

Is a steering stabilizer the same thing as a steering damper?

 

[Punknhed]

My Jeep is lifted on 37s, but still on factory steering linkage (tierod and draglink), and the steering alwyays (had bump steer and the one second wobble when hitting bumps). Tightening ball joints and linkage ends helped a little, but it always bothered me. Then I had a few instances of wobble that got triggered by a bump and would not stop unless the speed was drastically reduced.

Obviously, I have been going through the death-wobble check list and all is tight and and angles are good and Jeep drives like a dream - hands free on the highway at vMax.

Jeep has under 8,000 miles.

While the factory stabilizer is still in good working order and I tried a Teraflex twin tube one that is stiffer that one had too much small play with little resistance for small movements.

So I have a Fox thru-shaft neutral pressurized shock on order, but they have been back ordered forever.

So I decided to take a chance on a monotube pressurized damper - even though I'm against non-neutral stabilizers.

so read below....

did you happen to have a dead spot in your steering wheel ? if so did this help that as well ?

 

[gato]

did you happen to have a dead spot in your steering wheel ? if so did this help that as well ?

I had a very small one - and I believe it improved it somewhat. It may be a placebo effect, but I think the steering wheel feels more connected on center than before. I can do some more driving and check that specifically.

 

[gato]

I am curious. I have seen people use Synergy products to improve their steering. What type of analysis led you to choose this product instead?

An engineer's thought process is always useful.

What is a non-neutral stabilizer? What other types exist?

Is a steering stabilizer the same thing as a steering damper?

The factory stabilizer, the thru-shat stabilizers, and typically all twin tube non-pressurized stabilizers are neutral. If you compress or extend them partially by hand, they will sit there where you left them.

Monotube pressurized shocks like Fox IFP, Bilstein and AEV if you compress them by hand and leave them, they will extend on their own, which will put a non-zero force on the steering. The debate has always been "is it enough force to cause a pull as you drive".

Usually improving the steering on a Wrangler involves replacing factory linkages designed for lightness (fuel efficiency) and comfort (quite les vibrations), with stronger parts optimized for resistance to bending and breakage.

Jeep needs to design to the regulations and majority of customers. We customize for the narrow mission of running big tires and rock crawling. Any engineer will tell you that the parts need to be different if the mission is that different. Hope that helps.

 

[Roky]

I had a very small one - and I believe it improved it somewhat. It may be a placebo effect, but I think the steering wheel feels more connected on center than before. I can do some more driving and check that specifically.

Dead spot is in the steering box, ss won’t eliminate it, however the steering may be a bit firmer feeling which may feel like less of dead spot.

 

[Jamrock]

Usually improving the steering on a Wrangler involves replacing factory linkages designed for lightness (fuel efficiency) and comfort (quite les vibrations), with stronger parts optimized for resistance to bending and breakage.

Yes So people usually change out the tie rod, drag link, track bar. They replace them with more robust after market versions. Why didn't you go that route? Why just change the steering stabilizer?

Your approach worked. Just curious if there was a technical reason why you took this approach and not the other one.

Thinking about it logically, a stabiliser/damper should lesson the effect of the bumps in the road. It might even cushion the effects of worn ball joints, etc. However, I don't think I have heard of many people doing this.

 

[gato]

Yes So people usually change out the tie rod, drag link, track bar. They replace them with more robust after market versions. Why didn't you go that route? Why just change the steering stabilizer?

Your approach worked. Just curious if there was a technical reason why you took this approach and not the other one.

Thinking about it logically, a stabiliser/damper should lesson the effect of the bumps in the road. It might even cushion the effects of worn ball joints, etc. However, I don't think I have heard of many people doing this.

I did change out the Trackbars front/rear. As those were needed to center the axles after a lift.

For the steering linkages (tierod and draglink) given that they are much larger diameter than the JK's, I decided to run with the factory linkages while the vehicle is under warranty.

Unfortunately, where I live most Jeeps are stock and local dealers will give you a hard time if your Jeep has too many mods.

My goal with my Jeep is to build the most capable Jeep that still looks close to stock to the dealers

Having said that, I think a tierod, knuckle and ball joints replacement is in store in the near future.

 

[Jamrock]

Now I understand. Thanks.

Tracking down steering issues does take some amount of trial and error

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