AEV Steering Stabilizer Review - Completely Solved My Wobble

[somedude922]

Installed mine today. While I wouldn't say it is a magical difference, it did firm up the pothole shimmies pretty good. I am happy with it.

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[gato]

I put in a Fox TS, as my AEV one was hitting my tie rod. I get a little shimmy on pot holes with the Fox. With the AEV I have none/zero. Moving them by hand, I feel the AEV has ˜ 1/3 to 1/2 more dampening force.

I'm in a pickle. I can have perfect steering with the AEV with a little rubbing on the tierod (due to the Synergy relocation bracket) or good enough steering with the Fox (which is mounted higher with the Fox TS mount) and no rub.

 

[KNN]

I went w/ the ATS and am testing out how my Jeep responds to different settings. Strangely it seemed to handle worse on stiffer settings.

I’m also in the process of ordering the exact center as I’m so tired of dealing w/ these suspension/steering issues.

 

[gato]

I went w/ the ATS and am testing out how my Jeep responds to different settings. Strangely it seemed to handle worse on stiffer settings.

I’m also in the process of ordering the exact center as I’m so tired of dealing w/ these suspension/steering issues.

It is actually not surprising at all. Despite what most people think, a stabilizer that is too stiff starts acting like a solid bar with no shock absorbing properties. The forces that the stabilizer is designed to dampen (side motion of a front wheel) are tiny compared with the vertical wheel motion of a 5,000 lbs Jeep.

There is definitely a sweet spot. In the JL, the sweet spot is stiffer than the JK (from my experience and hearing others). My TS is non adjustable, if it were valved slightly more stiff it would be perfect for me (on 37s). The AEV simply worked like a glove. Going from factory and the VS9550 stabilizer to the AEV took my steering (shimmy/wobble wise) from a 3 to a 10. Going from the AEV to the Fox TS brought from a 10 to an 8 or 9.

 

[XxsullyxX123]

I installed the AEV stabalizer when I installed my 37's and subsequently installed the aev 2.5" lift. the jeep rides fantasitcally and much less bump steer and have had zero shimmies (which i would get frequently prior)

 

[gato]

I installed the AEV stabalizer when I installed my 37's and subsequently installed the aev 2.5" lift. the jeep rides fantasitcally and much less bump steer and have had zero shimmies (which i would get frequently prior)

Exactly my experience. Looks like AEV/Bilstein actually took the time to test and valve this thing perfectly.

 

[BullMoose1776]

I think I posted on this thread earlier...since installation I've gone on a 8 hour drive to another state.

After I installed I have a crooked steering wheel (turned to the right) but the tracking down the road on a flat road at 75-80 is great. That is a big improvement over the previous strong pull to the right.

I'm going to have an alignment done to straighten out the steering wheel, and hopefully be all set. Super happy with this upgrade.

 

[GATORB8]

I put in a Fox TS, as my AEV one was hitting my tie rod. I get a little shimmy on pot holes with the Fox. With the AEV I have none/zero. Moving them by hand, I feel the AEV has ˜ 1/3 to 1/2 more dampening force.

I'm in a pickle. I can have perfect steering with the AEV with a little rubbing on the tierod (due to the Synergy relocation bracket) or good enough steering with the Fox (which is mounted higher with the Fox TS mount) and no rub.

I just picked up the MC track bar side bracket, haven't replaced the synergy one yet, but thinking it will do the trick on the tie rod rub, and put the bushing stress back in the same plane since it is vertical.

 

[GATORB8]

I think I posted on this thread earlier...since installation I've gone on a 8 hour drive to another state.

After I installed I have a crooked steering wheel (turned to the right) but the tracking down the road on a flat road at 75-80 is great. That is a big improvement over the previous strong pull to the right.

I'm going to have an alignment done to straighten out the steering wheel, and hopefully be all set. Super happy with this upgrade.

You don't have to pay for an alignment if all you want is the wheel straight. Just adjust the drag link. Loosen the pinch bolt (I want to say it's a 15 mm) and turn the sleeve (may need a pair of channel locks) while some one watches the wheel inside. Make sure you adjust the drag link and not the tie rod.

 

[Gorpf]

Ordered the AEV JL Steering Damper done in partnership with Bilstein for $120 from Northridge. Got it delivered in 72 hours.

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/steering-damper/

All I can say is wow!!!! My steering wheel does not move at all. Completely solved/masked any hint of bump steer, shimmy or wobble hitting any of the bumps at any speed. Simply amazing.

Also is perfectly damped, not overly stiff, so it did not make the steering any heavier (nothing noticeable at all).

There is zero pull, which was a worry with a non-neutral stabilizer.





I'm extremely happy with it, and now happy with my steering again.

So passing along the info in case anyone want to try it.

Ditto. Quality product along with their other options as well. Very satisfied so far.

 

[Gorpf]

I did change out the Trackbars front/rear. As those were needed to center the axles after a lift.

For the steering linkages (tierod and draglink) given that they are much larger diameter than the JK's, I decided to run with the factory linkages while the vehicle is under warranty.

Unfortunately, where I live most Jeeps are stock and local dealers will give you a hard time if your Jeep has too many mods.

My goal with my Jeep is to build the most capable Jeep that still looks close to stock to the dealers

Having said that, I think a tierod, knuckle and ball joints replacement is in store in the near future.

Gotta change the rest of the geometry with lifts and larger tires to do it right.

Warranties are pretty much useless(at least in CA). You will typically be in for a fight, which is personally not worth the time and stress; and service at dealerships is hit or miss. Better off doing what you want with a trusted, experienced mechanic, IMO, for what it is worth.

 

[XxsullyxX123]

You don't have to pay for an alignment if all you want is the wheel straight. Just adjust the drag link. Loosen the pinch bolt (I want to say it's a 15 mm) and turn the sleeve (may need a pair of channel locks) while some one watches the wheel inside. Make sure you adjust the drag link and not the tie rod.

just did this last week. correct a 15mm and correct on channel lock, as I couldn't spin by hand either. unless getting on and off the ground 3x to get it right bothers you, you can definitely do it alone in 5 minutes.

 

[Col_Sanders]

My Rubi had a tiny bit of bump steer/shimmy when I hit a bump from day 1. No change after the lift and tires. A few months after installing the Synergy drag link and through shaft Fox stabilizer (NOT the ATS version), it started getting death wobble.

Retorqued and checked all the suspension no change.
New steering box made it slightly better but not gone.
I upgraded the tie rod to Synergy and it seemed to help for a little while, but then wobble started again.
I had Dynatrac ball joints installed and had another alignment done. This time I had them them toe it out 1/8. It has drastically improved but is still not right. I still feel a slight shimmy.

I've been suspecting the Fox stabilizer for a while but since I always hear stabilizers are a band aid not a cure, I havent swapped it out. Maybe I need to suck it up and get one of the adjustable Falcon or Fox ATS versions or the AEV. Maybe the electric power steering is just picky with valving and using a JK valved stabilizer like what I have is part of the problem.

 

[KNN]

My Rubi had a tiny bit of bump steer/shimmy when I hit a bump from day 1. No change after the lift and tires. A few months after installing the Synergy drag link and through shaft Fox stabilizer (NOT the ATS version), it started getting death wobble.

Retorqued and checked all the suspension no change.
New steering box made it slightly better but not gone.
I upgraded the tie rod to Synergy and it seemed to help for a little while, but then wobble started again.
I had Dynatrac ball joints installed and had another alignment done. This time I had them them toe it out 1/8. It has drastically improved but is still not right. I still feel a slight shimmy.

I've been suspecting the Fox stabilizer for a while but since I always hear stabilizers are a band aid not a cure, I havent swapped it out. Maybe I need to suck it up and get one of the adjustable Falcon or Fox ATS versions or the AEV. Maybe the electric power steering is just picky with valving and using a JK valved stabilizer like what I have is part of the problem.

What was your mileage when you replaced ball joints? Did they show signs of failure before you upgraded to Dynatrac?

 

[GATORB8]

I just picked up the MC track bar side bracket, haven't replaced the synergy one yet, but thinking it will do the trick on the tie rod rub, and put the bushing stress back in the same plane since it is vertical.

Not only had it rubbed the crap out of the stabilizer, the little synergy button head had worked itself finger loose, yes it was torqued.

MC is close on my track bar pinch bolts, but just a little more room on the tie rod (lol). Nice bonus, you can rotate the rubbed off section to hide it.

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