Jeep-JB
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Tell us about your brakes. Sick build!Onyx Black w/ Onyx Black protection ring on Ocean Blue JLUR. (JL +25)
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Tell us about your brakes. Sick build!Onyx Black w/ Onyx Black protection ring on Ocean Blue JLUR. (JL +25)
All stock brakes just painted the calipers.Tell us about your brakes. Sick build!
38x13.5 was pushing it... you can add wheel spacers or add a washer or two under the steering stops to limit your steering radius. As for the sway bar, I'd bet your axle isn't centered. Have you ran an alignment after installing your lift?SO, I got the Borahs for my 2020 with 3.5" Metal Cloak lift (plus 1" spacers for 4.5"). With Milestar Patagonias 38x13.5, I rub my control arm on full turn. Also, when I'm on the lift (both tires drooping), the driver side rear sway bar presses into my tire. I'm not so pleased.
I'll probably end up putting steering stops in. I have the Metalcloak GC lift 3.5 (with 1" spacers on drivers and 1.5" spacers on passenger), so the control arms are rounded... no tire damage if I rub. I won't be doing wheel spacers.38x13.5 was pushing it... you can add wheel spacers or add a washer or two under the steering stops to limit your steering radius. As for the sway bar, I'd bet your axle isn't centered. Have you ran an alignment after installing your lift?
That's weird then, I'm running 37x12.5 and the rear sway bar is not even close. Depending on where it is rubbing, maybe you can lengthen or shorten your links to help with the situation?I'll probably end up putting steering stops in. I have the Metalcloak GC lift 3.5 (with 1" spacers on drivers and 1.5" spacers on passenger), so the control arms are rounded... no tire damage if I rub. I won't be doing wheel spacers.
I definitely got a full alignment after the lift. Visually, the axle is centered. The tires stick out the same on both sides.
That's my thought, or just delete the rear sway bar.That's weird then, I'm running 37x12.5 and the rear sway bar is not even close. Depending on where it is rubbing, maybe you can lengthen or shorten your links to help with the situation?
Get a junk screw driver and heat up the tip.Has anyone sheared off the nylon bolts that come with the wheel when running without a ring? I've sheared 4 now and can't decide if I need to shove a drill bit in there or if there's an easier way since it's just plastic?
Required? Not at all. But consider the protection rings as "sacrificial".Are the protection rings required if you're doing significant rock crawling? I didn't order them with my JL370, but now I'm wondering if that was a bad decision. I was thinking that they'd stick out so far that they'd just get scraped to hell and back.
This will be with their new DualSport XP suspension with Bilstein reservoir shocks.
Are you saying you first purchased the JL version then switched to the JK? Do you have a pic down the side to match the JL version you posted above?Thank you once again to all who posted on this thread. Adding my contribution to help the next person decide
Decided to give the Jk spec Borahs a shot with their slightly more aggressive offset; +4mm
Tires: 37x12.5x17 BFG's load C
Before rear leveling spacer:
After rear leveling spacer
I ran the Borahs on my JK with no ring and with protection ring. The protection ring is something you'll absolutely want if you do serious wheeling. That section of the wheel sticks out far enough that if your tire gets shoved into a bank you're making contact there pretty quick. Ruined a wheel without the protection ring before I wised up. IMO, the config without protection ring is street duty or gravel roads only.Are the protection rings required if you're doing significant rock crawling? I didn't order them with my JL370, but now I'm wondering if that was a bad decision. I was thinking that they'd stick out so far that they'd just get scraped to hell and back.
This will be with their new DualSport XP suspension with Bilstein reservoir shocks.